Pentair IC-40 issues (low salt)

[EdKuhn]

My IC-40 SWCG is just under one year old. Last fall when I put it away it was working perfectly. When I was getting it ready for this year I cleaned it with diluted muriatic acid per the mfg manual. A little scale build up but not much, and I dumped the solution as soon as the scale was gone. It has read "low salt" since I plugged it back up a few weeks ago. My initial salt reading was 2800 ppm. I've added salt to the point where I don't want to add anymore and the unit is still claiming "low salt". All other lights are green. Last run of chemistry (two days ago) is below:

FC - 5
CC - 0
pH - 7.5
TA - 70
CYA - 70
CH - 150
Salt - 3800
Temp - 66 F

I've kept adding bleach to keep the chlorine level up while I figure this out. Before I contact Pentair, I'm not sure what to do other than maybe clean it again with acid? I took a look at it the other day and it appeared to be clean, so not sure if that is the answer or not. The unit is supposed to operate between 2600 and 4500 ppm, with 3600 optimal. Any ideas? Maybe it just needs a higher level of salt to operate?

 

[ajw22]

Where are you getting the salt reading from? If it is from the cell you need to get K-1766 Taylor Salt Test to test your actual salt level versus what the cell says.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Ed,

The key is to never, ever, take the salt reading from an IC40 for a fact... It is closer to a guess...

I never add salt unless I know for sure the actual salt level in the pool by using a salt test kit. I use the Taylor K-1766 and the speed-stir..

Temperature is a large factor in the accuracy of the IC40's salt measurement.. The colder the water the less accurate it is.

I test with the K-1766 and will increase the salt level up to about 3800 ppm.. If the actual salt level is 3800 and the IC40 still reports low salt, that is a pretty good indication that the thermister inside the flow switch is bad.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[EdKuhn]

Salt reading is from a Taylor K-1766 kit, also confirmed at a pool place.

 

[EdKuhn]

Where are you getting the salt reading from? If it is from the cell you need to get K-1766 Taylor Salt Test to test your actual salt level versus what the cell says.

Taylor K-1766 kit is what I am using, thanks

 

[ajw22]

Is the cell under warranty? If so put in a warranty claim and let a tech fix it. May be the thermistor in the flow switch.

 

[EdKuhn]

Is the cell under warranty? If so put in a warranty claim and let a tech fix it. May be the thermistor in the flow switch.

I self-installed it so I'm not sure how long the warranty is. I will contact Pentair and find out. If it is not under warranty I'll be researching a better replacement. Less than one year of operation is unacceptable.

 

[ajw22]

I self-installed it so I'm not sure how long the warranty is. I will contact Pentair and find out. If it is not under warranty I'll be researching a better replacement. Less than one year of operation is unacceptable.

You don’t have a warranty any more. Chances are you just need a new flow switch or thermistor. Read Pentair INTELLICHLOR Flow Switch Replacement

Do this:

IntelliChlor Diagnostic Procedure

Pressing and holding the “More” button launches the System Status Mode. When the lights finish scrolling, the percent lights indicate hours of usage in 1,000s. For example, if the 40% light lights, that indicates 4,000 hours.

Version 3.1 on adds the ability to determine system temperature. Pressing the “More” button after the display shows 1,000s of hours of usage, will show temperature as follows:
Lights……………………Temperature
No LEDs……………………Below 30F
40%...........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%...........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%.............66 to 75F
80%.............................76 to 85F
80 and 100%..................86 to 95F
100%.............................96 to 99F
100% blinking…………….over 99F
All LEDs blinking…………..Sensor bad

 

[mknauss]

I self-installed it so I'm not sure how long the warranty is.

Was this a new install or a replacement cell that you installed? Makes a difference warranty wise.
There are aftermarket flow switches for ~$60 or less. Or, you can install an independent temperature probe and bypass the thermistor in the flow switch. Search the forum - there is a thread on how to do it.

 

[EdKuhn]

Was this a new install or a replacement cell that you installed? Makes a difference warranty wise.
There are aftermarket flow switches for ~$60 or less. Or, you can install an independent temperature probe and bypass the thermistor in the flow switch. Search the forum - there is a thread on how to do it.

It was a replacement for the unit that I inherited with the house (unit was 7 yrs old). I do see some switches on Amazon.....this one.....https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-Pool-Technologies-Replacement-IntelliChlor/dp/B011DDHHPS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

[mknauss]

If it was a replacement cell, if you registered it, it has a 2 year warranty even if DIY installed.

Call Pentair.

 

[ajw22]

It was a replacement for the unit that I inherited with the house (unit was 7 yrs old). I do see some switches on Amazon.....this one.....https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-Pool-Technologies-Replacement-IntelliChlor/dp/B011DDHHPS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Note:

• Manufactured by Optimum Pool Technologies

I would get a Pentair switch. Amazon.com: Pentair 520736 Flow Switch Replacement Kit Pool/Spa Sanitizer and Automation Control Systems: Garden & Outdoor

 

[EdKuhn]

You don’t have a warranty any more. Chances are you just need a new flow switch or thermistor. Read Pentair INTELLICHLOR Flow Switch Replacement

Do this:

I followed that procedure, all lights (incl. "cell") were green, except salt which was red. I wasn't able to get the flashing life indicator deal to work but the unit has less than 1500 hours.

 

[JamesW]

Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll and note which percentage light lights up.

Then, immediately press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up.

 

[EdKuhn]

This turned out to be a bad flow/thermistor switch. Got an OEM Pentair switch, wired it up just now. Very simple to do. Everything finally running now, thanks for the tips everyone.
Now to keep up with all the pollen!!

 

[JamesW]

Cool, thanks for the update.

Did you ever get the test procedure to work by pressing the More button?

 

[EdKuhn]

Cool, thanks for the update.

Did you ever get the test procedure too work by pressing the More button?

No, it never seemed to work as you indicated. When I pressed "more" again after the first press, it only seemed to adjust the output %. I thought that was strange. However, the unit seems to be working again. Hopefully I'll see steady chlorine levels over the next day or two.