When it's 3800, verified by several other tests. SWG is working and generating chlorine just fine. Green light on the IC40 says normal salt level also.
Any fix for this problem?
Any fix for this problem?
Pentair diagnostics says salt level is zero...
- Thread starter Saltyhog
- Start date
sh,
On your EasyTouch, is the Intellichlor Enabled??? Menu, Setting, Intellichlor, then enable yes/no...
Or if you have ScreenLogic... is the Chlorinator box checked??
Thanks for posting,
Jim R.
On your EasyTouch, is the Intellichlor Enabled??? Menu, Setting, Intellichlor, then enable yes/no...
Or if you have ScreenLogic... is the Chlorinator box checked??
Thanks for posting,
Jim R.
sh,
The only other time I have seen the salt level at zero on the panel or ScreenLogic was when the cell was not communicating with the EasyTouch.. But, if you can change the % on the ET and the cell changes that means at least the sending part of the communications is working...
The only thing I would try is to cycle power to the EasyTouch... Other than that I am out of ideas..
Question.. When your pump is off do all the lights on the cell all go out??? They should..
Thanks,
Jim R.
The only other time I have seen the salt level at zero on the panel or ScreenLogic was when the cell was not communicating with the EasyTouch.. But, if you can change the % on the ET and the cell changes that means at least the sending part of the communications is working...
The only thing I would try is to cycle power to the EasyTouch... Other than that I am out of ideas..
Question.. When your pump is off do all the lights on the cell all go out??? They should..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Yep, the lights go off when I turn off the pumps. The salt light on the cell itself is steady green. It seems to be making chlorine as I had to adjust the percentage downward today due to a rising FC level.
Could it have anything to do with the borderline low water temp?
Salty,
If the water temp is near 52 degrees then the cold light should come on.. At this point the cell is not working and I believe it reports zero salt..
Since the system only reports twice a day, if it turned on when too cold to work, then later it warmed up, it still would report zero from the initial start up.. but the cell would be working...
But I would have thought it would clear itself if you turned off the power because when it is turned back on it does another calibration cycle.
Jim R.
If the water temp is near 52 degrees then the cold light should come on.. At this point the cell is not working and I believe it reports zero salt..
Since the system only reports twice a day, if it turned on when too cold to work, then later it warmed up, it still would report zero from the initial start up.. but the cell would be working...
But I would have thought it would clear itself if you turned off the power because when it is turned back on it does another calibration cycle.
Jim R.
Salty,
I think this is the same problem I am having.
IC60 is working fine, status lights are good for flow and salt level, water temp is high enough to produce chlorine, but your Intellitouch and ScreenLogic are showing 0ppm on the salt level?
I was told there is a second sensor in the IC60 that sends info to the Intellitouch. The other sensor keeps info internal and is the reason your IC40 is still working properly. In my case, the second sensor went bad so I couldn't see what my IC60 thought the salt level was at. Not a biggie, but nice to see.
I think this is the same problem I am having.
IC60 is working fine, status lights are good for flow and salt level, water temp is high enough to produce chlorine, but your Intellitouch and ScreenLogic are showing 0ppm on the salt level?
I was told there is a second sensor in the IC60 that sends info to the Intellitouch. The other sensor keeps info internal and is the reason your IC40 is still working properly. In my case, the second sensor went bad so I couldn't see what my IC60 thought the salt level was at. Not a biggie, but nice to see.
Yes, that sounds like my problem. I think I'll call my builder as my pool is only 10 months old. It should be under warranty.
There might be a problem with the data being sent by the cell to the automation.
There's not a separate sensor that sends data to easytouch (or IntelliTouch).
There's not a separate sensor that sends data to easytouch (or IntelliTouch).
What he said.
JamesW straightened out my post within my thread as I don't know if the guy was dumbing down his explanation to the point of being incorrect or he is out to lunch.
Same issue here. All green lights on cell, but what’s being reported shows “0” salt on app.
This is my 3rd cell in 4 years (same reason, every year) I spoke with tech support at Pentair. They said that they had changed mfg 5x last so many years because of “no salt” issues with these things.
Pentair sending me a 4th one as we speak.
Im beginning to think I might need to change to another salt chlorination system.
This is my 3rd cell in 4 years (same reason, every year) I spoke with tech support at Pentair. They said that they had changed mfg 5x last so many years because of “no salt” issues with these things.
Pentair sending me a 4th one as we speak.
Im beginning to think I might need to change to another salt chlorination system.
I have have a Zero salt reading on automation but all other lights are green and good to go. Called my pool builder and they sent the following troubleshooting info form Pentair.
INTELLICHLOR TROUBLESHOOTING
No Lights on Cell – First check fuse. Second check power going to the transformer you should have 240VAC or 120VAC depending on how it’s wired. Check back of door for wiring diagram. Once you confirm power going to transformer you need check power coming out of transformer on 2 red wires 25-39VDC. If you getting correct voltage at salt board try unhooking salt cell from plug and checking for your VDC power there. Just put meter on DC Voltage and stick you meter prongs in the left and right hole where you just unplugged cell from. If you have 25-39VDC across the left and right hole, but no lights on cell that tells you the cell is bad.
Cell Reading Wrong salt Level – Hold down the MORE button on cell for 6sec and watch the Cold Water/PWR light if it goes RED that tells you the temp sensor is bad and you need to swap out the flow switch/temp sensor (520736). If it doesn’t turn RED it could still be bad but it just hasn’t failed completely and then you need to make sure salt level in the pool is 3500 or above if it is swap flow switch/temp sensor (520736)
Flow Switch is RED- Make sure filter cartridge, pump basket is all clean. If still is RED shut off pool pump and leave power to salt cell open up union and push in on flow switch flapper if stays RED replace flow switch(520736). If it goes Green, double check all the valve positions.
Cell Light Flashing- Shut off all power. Clean cell with acid and water mixture until blades are clean. Power cell back up, if it continues to flash the cell is bad.
Getting a Zero salt reading on automation- First check salt temp sensor by holding the MORE button down for 6sec and watch the cold water/power light if goes RED temp sensor is bad, if it’s good double check low voltage wire between the salt board and automation board. If wires and temperature sensor are good next step would be to check and make sure main board is communicating through comport to remotes or Intelliflo pump. If main board is talking to pump or their remotes it’s probably the salt board PN# (521218)
Not Producing chlorine and all lights are GREEN – Undo the cell unions and get a bucket or cleaning kit. Add pool water into bucket and hold flow switch down so flow light goes GREEN while it is in the pool water in the bucket. Put cell in boost mode by hitting low and more at same time. After the lights stop on Good salt the cell should start bubbling between the blades. If cell is producing you need to look at other things that could be affecting your chlorine.
Not making enough Chlorine. Make sure the output percentage is set high enough for pump run time and bather load. • Check pH, it should be between 7.2 and 7.4. Add acid to lower pH. • Verify stabilizer is 100ppm. • If the bather load is high, increase the pump time and output percentage.
• Large trees or dirt near pool that allow organic material to enter pool. Trim back trees or cover dirt sources.
• May have too short of filter pump run time for pool size - increase the run time.
• Output percentage may be too low for pool size - increase output percentage.
• Nitrates or phosphates in pool will neutralize chlorine as fast as it is made.
I ran the suggested diagnostic by holding the MORE button down for 6 sec and watched the cold water/power light turn RED so I guess temp sensor is bad.
Does anyone else have experience running this diagnostic? Is it reliable?
INTELLICHLOR TROUBLESHOOTING
No Lights on Cell – First check fuse. Second check power going to the transformer you should have 240VAC or 120VAC depending on how it’s wired. Check back of door for wiring diagram. Once you confirm power going to transformer you need check power coming out of transformer on 2 red wires 25-39VDC. If you getting correct voltage at salt board try unhooking salt cell from plug and checking for your VDC power there. Just put meter on DC Voltage and stick you meter prongs in the left and right hole where you just unplugged cell from. If you have 25-39VDC across the left and right hole, but no lights on cell that tells you the cell is bad.
Cell Reading Wrong salt Level – Hold down the MORE button on cell for 6sec and watch the Cold Water/PWR light if it goes RED that tells you the temp sensor is bad and you need to swap out the flow switch/temp sensor (520736). If it doesn’t turn RED it could still be bad but it just hasn’t failed completely and then you need to make sure salt level in the pool is 3500 or above if it is swap flow switch/temp sensor (520736)
Flow Switch is RED- Make sure filter cartridge, pump basket is all clean. If still is RED shut off pool pump and leave power to salt cell open up union and push in on flow switch flapper if stays RED replace flow switch(520736). If it goes Green, double check all the valve positions.
Cell Light Flashing- Shut off all power. Clean cell with acid and water mixture until blades are clean. Power cell back up, if it continues to flash the cell is bad.
Getting a Zero salt reading on automation- First check salt temp sensor by holding the MORE button down for 6sec and watch the cold water/power light if goes RED temp sensor is bad, if it’s good double check low voltage wire between the salt board and automation board. If wires and temperature sensor are good next step would be to check and make sure main board is communicating through comport to remotes or Intelliflo pump. If main board is talking to pump or their remotes it’s probably the salt board PN# (521218)
Not Producing chlorine and all lights are GREEN – Undo the cell unions and get a bucket or cleaning kit. Add pool water into bucket and hold flow switch down so flow light goes GREEN while it is in the pool water in the bucket. Put cell in boost mode by hitting low and more at same time. After the lights stop on Good salt the cell should start bubbling between the blades. If cell is producing you need to look at other things that could be affecting your chlorine.
Not making enough Chlorine. Make sure the output percentage is set high enough for pump run time and bather load. • Check pH, it should be between 7.2 and 7.4. Add acid to lower pH. • Verify stabilizer is 100ppm. • If the bather load is high, increase the pump time and output percentage.
• Large trees or dirt near pool that allow organic material to enter pool. Trim back trees or cover dirt sources.
• May have too short of filter pump run time for pool size - increase the run time.
• Output percentage may be too low for pool size - increase output percentage.
• Nitrates or phosphates in pool will neutralize chlorine as fast as it is made.
I ran the suggested diagnostic by holding the MORE button down for 6 sec and watched the cold water/power light turn RED so I guess temp sensor is bad.
Does anyone else have experience running this diagnostic? Is it reliable?
We just had the same issue. Since it was under Pentair warranty they came out and the guy told me he does multiple of these every month. He replaces the flow switch which apparently has the sensor that reports to the EZ touch. It was 10 minute repair and EZ touch now shows the salt level again.
Similar threads
