Pentair DE Quad Filter - High Pressure (Stumped)

Rv,

I'd take the guts out and retest. If "could" lower your pressure by 5 lbs.

With a single speed 1.5 HP pump, I would have thought your pressure would have been 15 to 20 lbs. But that is just a guess.

Let's see if we can get an expert's opinion.. Calling @mas985

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Has the filter pressure ever been lower than 25 PSI? If so, what?

What is the model# of your pump? (looks like either a SuperFlo or WhisperFlo).

Has there been any plumbing changes recently?

Inspect all check valves downstream from the filter. Any failures can cause high PSI.
 
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All of this is fine and dandy, and likely beneficial in the long run, possibly even lowering OP's baseline, but none of this explains the quick rise in PSI after cleaning the filter. None of the equipment / CV's / plumbing would drop 5 PSI from cleaning the filter, which is only 1.25 PSI from the reccomended 25% increase, and can you really tell 1.25 PSI ?

It possible the quick rise is due to SoCal pollen season which happens to coincide with the filter swap, but an OCLT is needed to prove the rise to not be a run of the mill algae problem.

Then y'all can be your awesome selfs optimizing the system, with no rush. :)
 
I agree 5 psi in one month is fast and could be attributed to algae especially if the filter isn’t charged with DE. I don’t think the starting psi is a new issue though. OP stated last filter cracked which was probably from the high starting psi and pressure after it was dirty. I believe problem is downstream, a broken check valve underground, or a dirty screen in the caretaker if he has one. It’s alien to me there are 2 IFCS on the filter pump, and a complete separate system for the rest of the IFCS.
 
Has the filter pressure ever been lower than 25 PSI? If so, what?

What is the model# of your pump? (looks like either a SuperFlo or WhisperFlo).

Has there been any plumbing changes recently?

Inspect all check valves downstream from the filter. Any failures can cause high PSI.
Mas985:

  1. yes the pump is a whisperflow 1.5 hp.
  2. No plumbing changes
  3. Will recheck all check values - any blockage must be before the diverter values as the pressure does not change if I switch the output from Pool to SPA
 
What was the filter pressure before this all started happening?

The red arrow is pointing to a low quality check valve. These cannot be inspected easily. Can't tell if that is on the pressure side or suction side.

1649455553700.png
 
Will recheck all check values - any blockage must be before the diverter values as the pressure does not change if I switch the output from Pool to SPA
Makes sense but isn’t always true, some times the spa psi will differ from the pools psi depending on design. It’s possible your pool psi was lower at point and your spa psi stayed the same. Any check valves by the pool or something that looks like this
1649457081491.jpeg
 
What was the filter pressure before this all started happening?

The red arrow is pointing to a low quality check valve. These cannot be inspected easily. Can't tell if that is on the pressure side or suction side.

View attachment 400057
Yes that is on the suction side.

I believe the old filter (if I recall correctly) would be between 15-20 as a starting point - so maybe this filter design is just a little more restrictive.
 
Makes sense but isn’t always true, some times the spa psi will differ from the pools psi depending on design. It’s possible your pool psi was lower at point and your spa psi stayed the same. Any check valves by the pool or something that looks like this
View attachment 400061
Yes I do have a multi-port value like this but for the in-floor cleaning system. That is separate from the filter system
 
Yes that is on the suction side.

I believe the old filter (if I recall correctly) would be between 15-20 as a starting point - so maybe this filter design is just a little more restrictive.
What was the old filter type and size?

Also the size of both MPV?
 

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Makes sense but isn’t always true, some times the spa psi will differ from the pools psi depending on design. It’s possible your pool psi was lower at point and your spa psi stayed the same. Any check valves by the pool or something that looks like this
View attachment 400061
Yes I do have a multi-port value like this but for the in-floor cleaning system. That is separate from the filter system
All of this is fine and dandy, and likely beneficial in the long run, possibly even lowering OP's baseline, but none of this explains the quick rise in PSI after cleaning the filter. None of the equipment / CV's / plumbing would drop 5 PSI from cleaning the filter, which is only 1.25 PSI from the reccomended 25% increase, and can you really tell 1.25 PSI ?

It possible the quick rise is due to SoCal pollen season which happens to coincide with the filter swap, but an OCLT is needed to prove the rise to not be a run of the mill algae problem.

Then y'all can be your awesome selfs optimizing the system, with no rush. :)
Newdude - I am almost coming to the same conclusion. Maybe 25 lbs is the new normal starting pressure for my system. The concern is the quick increase in pressure to 30 llbs within 30 days. I am now wondering if the cartridges need to be replaced.
 
25lbs seems to be an issue. Maybe fixable, maybe just the way it's gonna be. But you are in phenomenal hands here. They got you, and then some.

25 -30 lbs is another issue and if you can prove it to be not algae (maybe pollen) we have plenty of time to not become a swamp while chasing down the high PSI. Or it proves algae needs addressing before it becomes a swamp.

OCLTs are free and you have nothing to lose. They can still address the equipment while you wait for tomorrow's results. (y)
 
I'm still following along, and wondering if opening up the return fittings (eyeballs) would help out. It should relieve some pressure and provide better circulation in the pool. Do you know what size your return fittings are?
 
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Rv,

Do you remember what your old filter pressure used to be?

I am not all that sure that a pressure of 25 lbs. is all that bad knowing that you have a heater, check valve, wall returns and a couple of pop ups in the water's path..

As a quick test you could remove the guts from the check valve before the SWCG, and see what effect it has on your pressure. The check valve is not needed when you have a SWCG instead of a tab feeder.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim. I removed the guts as you suggested however there was no change in pressure. No harm trying. Thank for the suggestion.
 
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