Pentair DE filter

Jun 6, 2015
24
Barnegat NJ
Hello guys, wondering what your thoughts are on these filters please. Need to replace my sand filter and looking into Cartridge or DE. Any help is appreciated.
Also can anyone recommend best deals to buy from.
Thanks again!
Go Yanks,Rangers and Knicks
 
Six years with my pentair de and no complaints.

Ive read plenty of good things about cartridge and not dealing with the de would be one less step.

Both options are good options
 
Are you unhappy with 'the evil you know' ?

They all have their strengths and also unique drawbacks. They also all filter a couple times beyond what the human eye can see, so don't listen to any of that nonsense that a sand filter isn't as good. If your yard is dumping crud in the pool, it takes days to filter the larger particles as they just sit there all suspended like. By the time they finally get around to the filter, it was breezy again and more crud looks like the old crud.

I'm a biased cart guy but fair is fair.

So what are your thoughts/reasons so we can possibly steer you to something you'd prefer?
 
I have a de filter. It’s really great at getting the finer junk out of the pool. My buddy has a sand filter and it’s not as good at getting the fine stuff. I know this forum does not believe in phosphate monitoring and reduction but I live in fear that if my FC drops for some reason I’ll end of slamming. The lack of phosphates will slow down algae growth bc that’s what they eat. (I hope). The phosphate fall out is very fine. I use Orenda PR10000. So does my buddy. As a result he vacuums more often. I vacuumed zero times the last 2 years. My robot and filter get all normal as well as fine stuff.

The only negative I can think of is I have to break down my De filter 2-3 times a season for cleaning. Take off belly band. Remove grid. Hose down and wash out grids. I use a long wand and it’s makes for quicker more efficient work. I’ve gotten good at it and it takes me 30 minutes start to finish. I put it away clean after the season. I clean it after pollen season and I clean it every other month in season just because I want my pool crystal clear or when the pressure exceeds 20 after a backwash. I add De to the filter 1 Or 2 times a month and that’s super easy. Cleaning and adding DE really no big deal. I am totally satisfied with my DE filter results but truthfully do your research on the cartridges bc I am unfamiliar with those. I don’t know anyone who has one so I cannot comment.
If the cartridge did the same filtering as my De without the maintenance I guess it’s better. But
I don’t know that to be true
 
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Good morning all hope your summers going well,
So here’s my deal I moved 3 years ago and the pool is approximately 20yo. I have a 22000 galllon in ground rectangular pool with one skimmer, one return next to it and 2 returns by the steps for spa. The skimmer is an Aqua Genie system that I just started using this season. I’ve always used liquid bleach and test regularly with a Taylor kit. I have a sand filter with a 1 hp pump and have had nothing but problems with algae. Thinking of switching to a DE filter and a stronger pump. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
 
Y,

If you have algae, that is a chemical issue, and not a filter issue... Period.

I am a huge fan of very large cartridge filters, but it will not matter what filter or pump you get, as their job is not to remove algae. By the time algae shows up in your filter you have already lost the algae war.

If you can visually see algae, then you need to do a SLAM and kill all the algae, before you do anything else.

What is your CYA level?
Where do you normally keep your FC level?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
The burning question - what make and model of Hayward sand filter (and pump) do you have? What leads you to decide that the filter and pump need to be replaced?

The pool turning green is purely a chemical problem. Taking an inordinately long time to clear the water AFTER doing a full SLAM might indicate filter issues. Properly sized sand filters can do the job well, hence wanting to know what you have now.

Going bigger/different with the pump and filter won't reduce or prevent the pool from going green. That only happens when you allow the amount of Cl needed for your CYA level to drop too low. Lets get into that part first - it may be you can save all the money, and put it toward something that may permanently solve the problem (like a SWCG).

I unknowingly did get a pool with my house that had a very undersized sand filter, and fought the algae battle for literally decades. But I also didn't know about the relationship between Cl and CYA. So the pool would go green, I would "shock" it, and then it was a issue to get the water back to clear as the filter was not up to the job. Many purchases of floc's and clarifiers. Then the green reappeared a week later, and the cycle started again.

Go to Settings over on the side here, and update your signature to list: pool gallons, type of construction (vinyl, plaster, etc), specific brand and models of all you equipment (pump, filter, heater and any other), and the model of the Taylor test kit you have. That way we don't have to keep asking.

List out the latest test result: FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA, CH in a reply here.
Then we can have a better discussion about what to do...
 
Thanks for your replies, my numbers are usually always perfect according to pool math recommendations so that’s why I thought maybe my filtration was the problem. I currently have a Hayward Pro series model S244T with a 1 hp century pump.
Thanks again
 

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my numbers are usually always perfect according to pool math
Goodness. Thanks for the laugh. (y)

For one, poolmath claims min is Ok (on a technicality).

For two, It is only a calculator with no idea if your recent daily loss is 1FC in April or 4FC in July.

It's Ok to land mid target range but probably not to start there for any 24 hour cycle during the peak season.

So *you* tell poolmath what your levels should be, not the other way 'round. :)
 
Y,

Here is the basic problem... No matter why you have algae now, once you have algae, it will not go away running at the normal chlorine levels...

The only way to actually kill all the algae is to perform a SLAM.

At this point, it does not matter if your numbers were perfect for the past 5 years.. or not.. If you can see algae, you have to do a SLAM..

Sorry,

Jim R.
 
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