hello everyone.... new to the group. I have a 10 year old pentair 300 heater which was failing on ignition, figuring it was the ignitor I ordered the part and replaced it. Unfortunately the 2 studs that were holding the ignitor bracket down were badly rusted and snapped when attempting removal even after 2 days of soaking in pb blaster. I manufactured a bracket that is allowing the unit to fire consistently but will want to replace the studs at some point. I can't seem to figure out what the right part number is with the schematics I've eyeballed nor, to my surprise, found any information regarding this repair. Any advise would be appreciated as to parts needed, procedure and difficulty. Thanks Joel
pentair 300 broken ignitor studs
- Thread starter bones575
- Start date
Welcome! 
A picture would help immensely. I looked at a parts diagram and it doesn't even show the studs, just the washers and nuts. Do the studs go into a casting, or through sheetmetal? If it's in a threaded hole in a casting, you'll have to drill and tap. If sheetmetal, it's probably a "self-clinching" stud that you drive out with a hammer and punch. You tap it back in enough to keep it from falling out and as you tighten the nut it gets drawn in.
If you have access to the backside, you could substitute a bolt or screw for the stud. If there's no way to get a wrench or screwdriver on it, then stick a lockwasher under the head and slide it through. Tightening the nut will cause the washer to dig in and keep it from spinning when you make the last few turns.
A picture would help immensely. I looked at a parts diagram and it doesn't even show the studs, just the washers and nuts. Do the studs go into a casting, or through sheetmetal? If it's in a threaded hole in a casting, you'll have to drill and tap. If sheetmetal, it's probably a "self-clinching" stud that you drive out with a hammer and punch. You tap it back in enough to keep it from falling out and as you tighten the nut it gets drawn in.
If you have access to the backside, you could substitute a bolt or screw for the stud. If there's no way to get a wrench or screwdriver on it, then stick a lockwasher under the head and slide it through. Tightening the nut will cause the washer to dig in and keep it from spinning when you make the last few turns.
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Luckily, these are bolts that fit into the blower plate and not true studs. If you could take the blower and plate off without tearing the gaskets (i can save them about half the time) all you would need is the bolts. You will need P/N: 77707-0011 Blower plate gasket kit. Unfortunately, you have to buy the blower plate (included). Not sure if the blower and ignitor bolts come with it, but you can get the bolts at a hardware store, get stainless steel bolts! My price on that kit is about 80 bucks, but you can probably find it online for a fraction of that.
Since i am a Pentair warranty station and i am under contract with them and bla bla bla, I cannot even suggest that you Make your own gaskets because those are gaskets that seal the combustion chamber (liability).
This photo shows the blower plate upside-down to show how the studs/bolts are set.
Since i am a Pentair warranty station and i am under contract with them and bla bla bla, I cannot even suggest that you Make your own gaskets because those are gaskets that seal the combustion chamber (liability).
This photo shows the blower plate upside-down to show how the studs/bolts are set.
Hey thanks for the responses. Knowing now that the studs, rather bolts, are part of the plate I can understand how this is all assembled better and can understand the fix and what I'll need to complete it. The picture of the plate helped immensely. I'll probably wait until end of the season to fix being that my temporary bracket seems to be holding well enough. Thanks again for the ideas and help. Besure those replacement bolts will be stainless steel. =]