Oona
Well-known member
My PB mentioned when they dug his pool that this how they had to excavate the hole- with walls that slope out. He said that they do this with loose dirt/soil so it doesn’t collapse down into the hole
Owner Builder SLC - Slow and steady progress
- Thread starter Foxer
- Start date
I guess I could see that. There’s also plenty of builds that have plywood forming the walls where the dirt collapsed or was over dug. My excavator made it sound like it was a structural issue.
Hopefully in my case the ground will stay cold enough not to cave in until I can get the gunite!
Hopefully in my case the ground will stay cold enough not to cave in until I can get the gunite!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,096
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If a dig will not get gunite for a while a good builder will flash the hole with a thin layer of gunite to provide stability until the full application can be done.
I’ve never heard of that before, but since I’m doing it myself I guess I’m out of luck on that. At least right now I’m not too concerned about any cave-ins. The dirt seems pretty solid. A bunch of snow/rain could change that though.
It should only be a few weeks before gunite I’m hoping. Rebar crew is about 2 weeks out, so I’ll be working on plumbing before they’re out, then a few more things, like bonding, prior to inspection. The gunite crew is also a couple weeks out after that.
So if everything goes smoothly, I’m thinking maybe mid-march for gunite.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,096
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You can ask your gunite contractor if they can come by the start or end of a day and flash your dig
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- Jan 7, 2012
- 2,123
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Have you considered a large cartridge (CCP520) filter?
Other things to consider:
-Make sure everything at the pad is connected with unions.
-It's recommended to have a segment of straight pipe before the SWG, so plan for that.
-Consider an autofill and overflow drain.
-Install a light over your equipment pad.
-Consider a surge protector at the load center.
-Think about adding GFCIs, running landscape lighting wires, and extra conduit for future options.
-Are you getting a robot? Think about where that will plug in and if you'll be able to conceal the cord.
-Install the anchors for a removable handrail
-Umbrella sleeves?
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I thought about it, and went back and forth honestly. The CCP520 is about the same price, and that and the Quad DE 100 are very similar filters. Ultimately I decided for the same price I wanted to get a little benefit of having DE (if there is any) without going to a full blown DE filter.
Good stuff here, I am planning on most of that. I like the idea for a light. I'd see others recommend that, but hadn't added it to my list.
I'll be using Intellicenter. How do I add a surge protector to that?
Will definitely be running extra conduit throughout to keep options open in the future. I am putting in a paver patio, so if I really had to I could pull it up, but certainly not idea.
One other question - My equipment will be about 3 feet higher than the pool. Anything I need to do specifically for that?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,096
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
A surge protector should connect to the first 240V CB in the Power Center.
Electrical Surge Protection - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
No, a self priming pump can handle up until about 5 feet above water level.
- Jan 7, 2012
- 2,123
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The convenience of a large cartridge filter can't be beat. It filters extremely well, and your water will be crystal clear. Plus, no DE to mess with.
I had a DE filter in my previous pool and have a CCP520 in my current pool. If I had to build another pool, there's no question I'd choose a cartridge filter.
The dig is finally complete! Took an extra day, but they finally finished late yesterday evening. I really had no idea how much the frozen ground would slow us down. Even they were surprised how frozen it was. The frost was 18" deep on the south side in the shade. There were some chunks of dirt that were huge - the biggest was probably a 5' x 10' solid piece! Really unbelievable.
Here's a couple of the bigger pieces:
I think in total there was about 25 truck loads of dirt, hauling around 15 tons or so each! So much dirt, it was really incredible. I'll have to take my drone up and get an overhead shot later today, but here's a time-lapse of the dig.
3 Day Dig Time Lapse
Edit: Is there a way to embed video's from Onedrive? or only Youtube?
Here's a couple of the bigger pieces:
I think in total there was about 25 truck loads of dirt, hauling around 15 tons or so each! So much dirt, it was really incredible. I'll have to take my drone up and get an overhead shot later today, but here's a time-lapse of the dig.
3 Day Dig Time Lapse
Edit: Is there a way to embed video's from Onedrive? or only Youtube?
Plan on running the PVC for the microbrites tomorrow. I've got some 1-1/2" PVC that the fitting needs on the inside of the pool, and I'll be connecting that up to 3/4" grey electrical conduit. I see on some of the bigger light niches it will immediately pop up out of the ground, an then presumably finish running the electrical above the water line (or at least near it). Do I need to try and get above water level right away with those? Or will it matter?
I got this reducer since it was the only one Home Depot had. Am I approaching this right? Or should I be doing something different?
I got this reducer since it was the only one Home Depot had. Am I approaching this right? Or should I be doing something different?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,096
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Usually the light conduit is run underground until it comes up at the junction box.
Not a lot of updates. Dug out a little trench for the bubblers, and some other prep work for plumbing. Got all the plumbing supplies I need and the rebar delivered. I’ve got the rebar guys scheduled for the 21st, so I’ve got a week to finish plumbing before they get there.
The only pipes that were In stock we’re bell end pipes. Does it matter if you use bell end or plain end pipe? Is one ‘better’ than another?
The only pipes that were In stock we’re bell end pipes. Does it matter if you use bell end or plain end pipe? Is one ‘better’ than another?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,007
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The bell end is so you don’t need to use a coupling. It is deeper than a coupling so it makes for a stronger fit. You buy less couplings this way.
Got started on the plumbing after a few days of (slow) prep. Want to be done with the plumbing inside the pool so everything’s ready for rebar next week, then keep working on running it to the pad as they work on the rebar. So far it hasn't been too bad, I plan to wrap that up either tomorrow or thurs, finish up the last couple things for the rebar guys, then back to running the plumbing to the pad.
So far I've the the bubblers, main drain, skimmer line (although the skimmer isn't there) and 2 of the returns (1 was done after the picture)
So far I've the the bubblers, main drain, skimmer line (although the skimmer isn't there) and 2 of the returns (1 was done after the picture)
Wrapping up the plumbing in the inside of the pool, moving on to the trench. Is it ok to stack the return lines on top of the suction lines? It should I avoid that?
The trench I have isn’t going to be wide enough to lay them all flat. I’d probably need to double the width for that which will be a lot of work. Planning to put a layer of sand between them.
The trench I have isn’t going to be wide enough to lay them all flat. I’d probably need to double the width for that which will be a lot of work. Planning to put a layer of sand between them.
Rebar got wrapped up yesterday. Took them about 2 full days with about 6-7 guys. Next steps are finish plumbing to the equipment pad, run the wire for equipotential bonding, and do the pressure test. Gunite is scheduled for March 8th, so I've got just over 2 weeks to finish that up.
Here's a timelapse of the rebar install: Rebar Timelapse
Here's a timelapse of the rebar install: Rebar Timelapse
Got a call earlier today from the paver company. Turns out the coping we were going to use doesn't come in 60mm (2-3/8"), only 90mm (~3-1/2"). The deck pavers are 2-3/8". I'm not too worried about the deck, I think I can just bring the other pavers up an inch to match the level of the coping easily enough. I am worried that the extra inch will look too big. That really seems like pretty thick coping.
That also bumps up the water level to the deck to about 7-1/2" or so, instead of 6-1/2". I guess I could always raise the water an inch or so, but probably not more than that. Am I worrying about nothing? Does anyone have coping that thick with pictures?
That also bumps up the water level to the deck to about 7-1/2" or so, instead of 6-1/2". I guess I could always raise the water an inch or so, but probably not more than that. Am I worrying about nothing? Does anyone have coping that thick with pictures?
Our build is in progress but pool coping is done and is 3&1/2 by 22 wide, I have some photo's posted.
