Overfilled pool

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OK - so the plot thickens. Last night when I measured FC was at 24 and when I measured this morning it was at around 26. My SWG is definitely off but I have one of those floating chlorine dispensers (shark) in the pool which I have now removed. I checked CC and it went the ever-so slightest hue of pink and was gone with 1 drop of 871.

Last night after dumping in the 6 gallons of the concentrated bleach, I waited about 1.5 hours before testing.... maybe I didn't wait long enough? Anyway, I am very encouraged by all of this.

My water is crystal clear (and has been from the beginning) except for the brownish/greenish stuff growing on some of the walls (especially near the deep end)
 
No problem! Just to be safe, read this:

1. Great job removing the floater - it not only adds FC but also drops PH and INCREASES CYA - triple threat tablets Note: they pucks will put off gas now that they've been wet - don't store them in a sealed container or the fumes will build to dangerous levels - put them somewhere outdoors, shaded from rain, with lots of air flow for them to try if you're trying to reuse them in the future

2. 26 won't hurt the pool, but is higher that you want to swim in, so for the next couple days, use 27,000 gallons on pool math, just so we don't go over 24 before the party

3. Brush when you can, at least where there is algae

4. You can test FC again after 20-30 mins after pump running (it's always dropping since it is killing algae, but as long as you poured slowly, the pump has distributed it equally after 15-30 depending on your circulation)
 
Great advice - I usually just take it out and lay it on the side of the pool so gas build up shouldn't be a problem. So here is my latest update:

Last night after coming home I went around and looked for signed of algae and there was nothing to be found. I tested the water and FC has dropped to 16 and CC was .5 so I brought it up to 22. I tested this morning and FC is still at 22 and CC is 0 - this has to be good news right?

What now? Thanks!
 
Yes indeed! The SLAM never fails when done right! Kudos to you for trusting us and charging ahead without delay so your pool is awesome for your guests!

Check the FC sometime after the party before bed and bring back up to shock if you have enough bleach left, or as close as you can, quick brush over the walls and floor if you're up for it.

If you have time/energy tonight, let's do an OCLT tonight and see if you can end your SLAM. If you don't want to mess with it tonight, no harm in continuing the SLAM, if you can afford the extra bleach without worry.
 
OK - I think I did the OCLT correctly (although I didn't quite get to the pool first thing this morning). Last nights test results were FC:16 and CC:0.5. I brought the CC level up to 23 and to my pleasant surprise my latest results are as follows: FC: 23 and CC:0.

Home stretch? Thanks!!!
 
1. SWG still off? (assuming it is off, the rest of this post applies, if it is on, we have to turn it off for OCLT)
2. Did you test to confirm FC23 before bed or is that what poolmath said it would be?

If you tested to be sure it was 23 exactly, then you passed the OCLT! As long as the water is mindblowingly clear, your SLAM is done!
If 23 is what poolmath said it would be, I suggest you do the OCLT tonight, being sure to test the final FC after last addition circulated for 20-30.

My caution is because I want us to configure your SWG output KNOWING we have a fully sanitized pool, otherwise we'd be wasting money fighting algae and burning through your SWG cell unnecessarily fast.
 
Yes - the SWG generator has been off since I began the SLAM a couple days ago. I ran pool math (but did it for 27K gallons as suggested) and when I tested an hour later it was 23. I would say the water is crystal clear (not sure what would elevate it to mindblowing status) :) I'm happy to do it again tonight just to be sure.
 
Awesome job verifying with the testkit! You're really getting the hang of TFP and I'm so proud of you!

When you go underwater, do you see anything floating in the water? When you look down at the bottom, does it look clear or is it at all blurry? In direct sunshine, is is beautiful? Sparkling? Shiny? When there are waves, in the sun, do you see the pretty light show on the bottom?

As long as it is that clear, end the SLAM, let FC drop back down into or just above target range. Next order of business - SWG setting and pool run time/day. I'm NOT an expert on those, but there are threads that cover it thoroughly. Are you willing to read them if I collect the links for you or would you rather either guess and check or have me call in one of our SWG/runtime experts?
 
Thanks for the accolades! I feel like I'm starting to the hang of it. Just like anything else - break it, fix it, learn all about it!

I have to say (without doing too much self back-patting) that my pool is definitely all of those things. It was a cloudless day here in NJ and the pool looked like a gem. I think it's safe to say that I'm going to end the SLAM.

As for my SWG, it really has been guess and check for me. I've read through plenty of the threads and get mixed info. Some people tell me that my salt cell is too small for my pool, although up til recently running it at 20-30 10 hours a day has been producing round 6-8 FC. Not sure if I've been lucky or if I miscalculated the volume of my pool.

At this point should I start the SWG generator back up and start the rest of my tests once the water is back down below 10 FC?

Thanks again - today I made my first amazon purchase using Smile and plan on eventually becoming a TPF supporter. You've been a life saver!
 
You earned the back patting!

THANK YOU for setting up Amazon Smile! That's so wonderful of you! Thank you for planning to become a supporter too! That's what this forum is all about!

No SWG yet. Let your FC fall to under 10 so we can retest PH (since PH test isn't valid if FC is over 10). Adjust PH if needed to 7.2-7.8. All other tests are valid at any FC.

Side note: In general, probably a good idea to keep at least enough bleach on hand to bring it from min to shock once, for pre-pool party doses, and electrical outages, and SWG corrections. Let me know if you have any issues calculating these amounts using PoolMath.
 

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OK! So 4th of July went off without a hitch! Thank you for helping me get my pool back into shape so quickly before the party. I've been testing everyday and once my FC dropped back down to 8, I fired up the SWG generator again. Today I did all of my tests and here's what I'm looking at:

FC: 9
CC: 0
PH: 7.6
TA: 125
CH: 280
CYA: Between 50-55

I'm currently running my SWG at 30 and my pump for 10 hours a day. Is it safe to say that I'm ready to start tackling the other issues?
 
Absolutely! First checklist:
1. Advanced test kit mastery: videos of some of the tests being performed here, instructions and frequency of testing here, and extended testing instructions (really helped me) available here.
2. Reminder that we always round UP to the next 10 for CYA, so if it isn't 50 or less, it is 60.
3. Double check you understand how to use the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to find your NEW FC targets since you are using your SWG now
4. Check recommended-levels and report back how you think your numbers compare and if any are not in the recommended range, and if you tested everything required

Preview of next checklist: PoolMath, intro to CSI, adding chemicals, and SWG/runtime tuning
 
OK! I've definitely watched those videos multiple times over the past couple months and feel like I have the tests down (although the CYA test sometimes has me second guessing my self). I am a DIY guy and like to fully educate myself before taking on projects like this but this thread is definitely helping me get to a whole new level of mastery!

1. Done - I really feel like my testing is getting spot on!
2. CYA - I've been consistently getting somewhere between 50 & 55 so I will call it 60
3. FC/CYA Chart - For CYA of 60 my recommended FC is 4. However, it does say that 60 CYA is not recommended. I guess I'll be adding some more CYA and raising it to around 70.
4.
Recommended level:
FC 3-5
pH 7.2-7.8
TA 60-80
CH 350-450
CYA 70-80

Current Readings:
FC: 6
PH: 7.6
TA: 125
CH: 280
CYA: 60

Based on those readings my FC is a little high (does this matter?), my PH is OK however my TA is high which requires me to lower my PH and aerate (haven't started this yet per your instructions). CH is low and CYA is a little low. This would be my review of how my numbers compare.

I've also been calculating my CSI along the way and know that based on my chems and temp I'm doing ok. I know this is going to be in the next checklist but I figured I'd throw it in there and let you know that I've had my eye on it.

Thanks!
 
FC is always allowed to be higher than target, as long as it stays lower than shock. The higher above target you get, the less protected the extra is from the sun, so you'll lose a little more to the sun each day.

Personally, in my pool, if I stayed in target range, due to rain and sun and bather load, I'd fall under min all the time, so I stay 2-4 above the target range through the whole summer, and bring it up to just below shock before pool parties.

You only have to lower TA if PH is constantly above 7.8 and you're always having to add acid. Or if you have CSI issues. High TA doesn't directly cause any problems as long as your PH is well behaved.

+10 to your CYA when you get a chance, no rush.

CH - you have a plaster pool, correct? If so, your CH is lower than ideal for long term plaster health and you'll want to bring it up. How much requires a little pool math playing. Plug in all your current readings for now and goal columns, except put the low recommended CH in goal.

What are your now and goal CSI values? Be sure to use your current TA and PH for both current and goal.
 
More like a Pool School Graduate!

- - - Updated - - -

I'd only order enough to bring CH to 350. I'd play around with temp and TA to make sure you're staying in the okay CSI range if you add that much CH. If you plan on lowering TA - make sure your CSI will still be good.

There are lots of places that sell CH increasers and deicers. I got a pretty pure, TFP approved ice melt though Sam's wholesale club, delivered to Florida for free, for example. In NJ i'm guessing it will be even easier for you.
 
Just wanted to post an update:

I've been playing around with my numbers and here are today's test results:

FC: 5
CC: 0
PH: 7.4
TA: 100
CH: 350
CYA: 70
CSI: -0.21

I increased my CYA and resorted to HTH Calcium increaser as I got cold feet with the HomeDepot Excel Ice Melt (the only thing I could find in the area). My PH was 8+ again so I added some MA to lower it to 7.2 (2 days ago) and it is back up to 7.5. My TA did drop from 125 to 100 which I am assuming is good news. How am I doing?
 

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