Even if you replaced all the water, you'd still need to know the pH. Here's a video that shows how. JimSwim.com Testing Water pH Levels with Taylor K-2006 Test Kit - YouTubewater is circulating~
Do I drain it and refill it?
No. Just uncovered it last week and tested it for first time today. No CYADepends. Did there used to be CYA in the water? Have you added any chlorine and tested FC and CC?
OK> Tried PoolMath and could not figure it out. Going back to it now and if it takes until midnight I will figure it out.Next is getting your pH to 7.2. You have to do that before your SLAM.
Start by using PoolMath (it's on the blue nav bar at the top of the forum). Enter your pool volume, put 8.0 as your current pH (we know it's higher, but I don't want you to overshoot), and then enter 7.2 as your target. Add the indicated amount of muriatic acid very slowly in front of a water return with the pump running, wait 30 minutes to allow it to circulate, and retest. So long as the pH is at the highest end of the test kit, repeat the above. Once you get a reading, adjust your current number in PoolMath and make your final acid add to reach 7.2.
If you have any questions about using PoolMath or are unsure, feel free to run the numbers you're putting in and the number it's giving you here for a double check before you add acid.
Then we can talk about SLAMing.
I am ashamed to say I have not opened the pool for three years (shame is great)Was there CYA in the water last year? I bet there was
I would lower that pH (as you are discussing).
Then, With 0 CYA and 0 FC. You should add 10ppm of FC to the pool (while running of course) and then test FC and CC after 10 minutes. The FC is almost gone and the CC is high, keep adding chlorine until the FC mostly holds and the CC drops.
Ok. Gotcha. Had to have a part of the return JB welded tonight. Let set for 24 hours. So starting Wednesday morning I will be adding baking soda and muriatic acid. One after the other. Tying a sock with stabilizer in it and where do I put this sock?Oh, well after 3 years then there is probably no point in the 10ppm FC test.
Just focus on adjusting 1 thing at a time or you are going to confuse yourself.
I would raise the TA to 60ppm with baking soda.
Then lower the pH with muriatic acid.
After 30 minutes, retest the TA and pH.
You can buy stabilizer at Walmart of Home Depot or Lowes in the pool section.
Put 30ppm of CYA in a sock and get it dissolving.
You do not have a SWG or mustard algae, so ignore those numbers.
You need to SLAM, so you will use the shock FC number as your target.
The sock is the best way. If you're worried about losing CYA while vacuuming to waste, pull the sock out and set it in a bucket until you're done.Also want to mention that I am adding water as I am vacuuming to waste.I think by adding water I am also bringing down any CYA right? even though it has not registered yet.
Isn't there any other way other than this sock I have with stabilizer in it?