OMG forgot everything I learned 3 years ago

Re: OMG forgot everything I learned 3 years ago

water is circulating~
Do I drain it and refill it?
Drain half?
Even if you replaced all the water, you'd still need to know the pH. Here's a video that shows how. JimSwim.com Testing Water pH Levels with Taylor K-2006 Test Kit - YouTube

I don't see where draining it is necessary due to CH or CYA buildup. What do you want to do? Clear it so it's swimmable and inviting? Clear it enough so it doesn't bring down the asking price of the house? Is time a big factor? With the vinyl liner, you can't drain it all the way or else the liner may shift and wrinkle. You'd have to leave about a foot in the shallow end and still have to SLAM after refilling to be rid of all the residual algae.
 
Re: OMG forgot everything I learned 3 years ago

cover off last week, green and lots of algae
Tested today with new test kit
FC-0
CYA-0
CH-25
TA-30
Cannot remember how to test PH
Lost, did this 3 years ago but forgot all.
Pump is up and going and water is circulating.
ANYBODY please help
 
PH is off the charts
Read some stuff that says PH is unpredictable at this point.
Found a leak in filtering system and was tied up in that all day.
Changed some gaskets and waiting for neighbor know to come help remove the top of sand filter to change that gasket.
Going to read SLAM process as I think that is what is next
 
CYA level is 0

I merged your threads. Please keep related questions together for continuity of story. Thanks, jblizzle

I thought slamming process was next.
Spent the day getting the filtering system up and going.
Concerned because my CYA level is 0
Do I need to do anything else to adjust CYA before SLAM?
 
Next is getting your pH to 7.2. You have to do that before your SLAM.

Start by using PoolMath (it's on the blue nav bar at the top of the forum). Enter your pool volume, put 8.0 as your current pH (we know it's higher, but I don't want you to overshoot), and then enter 7.2 as your target. Add the indicated amount of muriatic acid very slowly in front of a water return with the pump running, wait 30 minutes to allow it to circulate, and retest. So long as the pH is at the highest end of the test kit, repeat the above. Once you get a reading, adjust your current number in PoolMath and make your final acid add to reach 7.2.

If you have any questions about using PoolMath or are unsure, feel free to run the numbers you're putting in and the number it's giving you here for a double check before you add acid.

Then we can talk about SLAMing. :)
 
Re: CYA level is 0

Depends. Did there used to be CYA in the water? Have you added any chlorine and tested FC and CC?

No. Just uncovered it last week and tested it for first time today. No CYA

- - - Updated - - -

Next is getting your pH to 7.2. You have to do that before your SLAM.

Start by using PoolMath (it's on the blue nav bar at the top of the forum). Enter your pool volume, put 8.0 as your current pH (we know it's higher, but I don't want you to overshoot), and then enter 7.2 as your target. Add the indicated amount of muriatic acid very slowly in front of a water return with the pump running, wait 30 minutes to allow it to circulate, and retest. So long as the pH is at the highest end of the test kit, repeat the above. Once you get a reading, adjust your current number in PoolMath and make your final acid add to reach 7.2.

If you have any questions about using PoolMath or are unsure, feel free to run the numbers you're putting in and the number it's giving you here for a double check before you add acid.

Then we can talk about SLAMing. :)

OK> Tried PoolMath and could not figure it out. Going back to it now and if it takes until midnight I will figure it out.
So muriatic acid is what is needed before SLAM?
Might want to add there is tons and tons of Algae
 

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Was there CYA in the water last year? I bet there was ;)

I would lower that pH (as you are discussing).

Then, With 0 CYA and 0 FC. You should add 10ppm of FC to the pool (while running of course) and then test FC and CC after 10 minutes. The FC is almost gone and the CC is high, keep adding chlorine until the FC mostly holds and the CC drops.
 
OK. So Stupid. I was putting the NOW information into the GOAL category. SHEEZ. ANXIETY has set in. LOL
So it says this:
Add 104oz bleach--I have it
Add 11oz muriatic acid --I have it
Add 47 oz baking soda -I have it YAY
Add 53 oz of stabilizer_do not have this and do not know what to get or where to get it aside from POOL STORE
then it says this under "suggested FC levels" and I do not understand it: (copied and pasted)



SWG Minimum:
1
non-SWG Minimum:
1
Daily Target:
3
to
3

Shock:
10
Mustard Algae Shock:
12

Suggested target FC levels based on the CYA level in the Now column for outdoor pools.
Note: Be careful if your CYA is really and truly zero! With CYA above 90 we recommend replacing water to get CYA down before you start the SLAM process.

- - - Updated - - -

Was there CYA in the water last year? I bet there was ;)

I would lower that pH (as you are discussing).

Then, With 0 CYA and 0 FC. You should add 10ppm of FC to the pool (while running of course) and then test FC and CC after 10 minutes. The FC is almost gone and the CC is high, keep adding chlorine until the FC mostly holds and the CC drops.

I am ashamed to say I have not opened the pool for three years (shame is great)
there was CYA in it when closed in 2014
 
Oh, well after 3 years then there is probably no point in the 10ppm FC test.

Just focus on adjusting 1 thing at a time or you are going to confuse yourself.

I would raise the TA to 60ppm with baking soda.
Then lower the pH with muriatic acid.
After 30 minutes, retest the TA and pH.

You can buy stabilizer at Walmart of Home Depot or Lowes in the pool section.
Put 30ppm of CYA in a sock and get it dissolving.
You do not have a SWG or mustard algae, so ignore those numbers.
You need to SLAM, so you will use the shock FC number as your target.
 
Oh, well after 3 years then there is probably no point in the 10ppm FC test.

Just focus on adjusting 1 thing at a time or you are going to confuse yourself.

I would raise the TA to 60ppm with baking soda.
Then lower the pH with muriatic acid.
After 30 minutes, retest the TA and pH.

You can buy stabilizer at Walmart of Home Depot or Lowes in the pool section.
Put 30ppm of CYA in a sock and get it dissolving.
You do not have a SWG or mustard algae, so ignore those numbers.
You need to SLAM, so you will use the shock FC number as your target.

Ok. Gotcha. Had to have a part of the return JB welded tonight. Let set for 24 hours. So starting Wednesday morning I will be adding baking soda and muriatic acid. One after the other. Tying a sock with stabilizer in it and where do I put this sock?
As soon as I add the sock do I begin the slam?
 
You can hang the sock in front of your pool return jet. I actually used two socks and drape it over my brush Pole. Yes you can start slamming as soon as you put the sock in the water and just assume that the cya is in the water. If you massage and squeeze the sock fairly off and you can get it dissolved pretty quickly.
 
Also want to mention that I am adding water as I am vacuuming to waste.I think by adding water I am also bringing down any CYA right? even though it has not registered yet.
Isn't there any other way other than this sock I have with stabilizer in it?
 
Also want to mention that I am adding water as I am vacuuming to waste.I think by adding water I am also bringing down any CYA right? even though it has not registered yet.
Isn't there any other way other than this sock I have with stabilizer in it?
The sock is the best way. If you're worried about losing CYA while vacuuming to waste, pull the sock out and set it in a bucket until you're done.

After it's all refilled and circulating and mixed again, retest and adjust pH to 7.2 with acid. Then just assume the CYA you've added is there. Use whatever you targeted as your CYA value and add bleach to get to shock level for that CYA.
 

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