Ok to plug passive pipe running from pool to spa?

[lildrippy]

Hello there!

Newer pool/home owner here who is methodically addressing what appears to be long-standing pool issues. I did a SLAM recently, following the directions on this site, and the pool water has never looked better. Thank you!

Another issue is that I’ve long believed the pool to have a leak. I did a bucket test a few days ago and confirmed the suspicion. The pool lost a couple inches more than the bucket.

I ordered some Anderson dye to perform a leak detection and determined that I have a leak in the passive (not hooked up to the pump at all) pipe running from the pool to the spa. The dye was being sucked into the pipe from the pool and spa side.

In retrospect, it makes sense that there is a leak there. A previous owner built a room over the spa and there’s a large wall right over where the pipe runs. My hunch is that the weight broke the pipe.

Good thing we passed on the pool inspection!

Anyway, my question is: Is there any reason that I shouldn’t plug both ends of the pipe?

I really appreciate the help! I can add photos if necessary.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Is your pool and spa a single body of water with shared equipment?

If so the spa water needs to flow into the pool. Where does that happen?

Show us some pics of your pool, spa, and equipment, so we can understand your situation.

 

[Jimrahbe]

drip,

Does your spa spillover into the pool???

If not, does it have its own equipment, (Pump, filter, heater, etc?)

My gut says that you have one set of equipment and that pipe is how your spa stays chlorinated when in the Pool mode. I doubt that it is leaking at all.

Show us a couple of pics of your equipment pad.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[lildrippy]

Thanks for the reply! Indeed, it’s just the one set of equipment.

I originally suspected the light fixture but didn’t see the dye suck into it. The dye did hangout in the crevices of the fixture though, so maybe? The light doesn’t work, so it might be worth it to pull it out and check anyway.

 

[1poolman1]

Hello there!

Newer pool/home owner here who is methodically addressing what appears to be long-standing pool issues. I did a SLAM recently, following the directions on this site, and the pool water has never looked better. Thank you!

Another issue is that I’ve long believed the pool to have a leak. I did a bucket test a few days ago and confirmed the suspicion. The pool lost a couple inches more than the bucket.

I ordered some Anderson dye to perform a leak detection and determined that I have a leak in the passive (not hooked up to the pump at all) pipe running from the pool to the spa. The dye was being sucked into the pipe from the pool and spa side.

In retrospect, it makes sense that there is a leak there. A previous owner built a room over the spa and there’s a large wall right over where the pipe runs. My hunch is that the weight broke the pipe.

Good thing we passed on the pool inspection!

Anyway, my question is: Is there any reason that I shouldn’t plug both ends of the pipe?

I really appreciate the help! I can add photos if necessary.

That's the line that keeps the spa from overflowing when the system is in "pool" mode. During filtration some of the water will be sent to the spa to keep it fresh.
Is there a separate line/return in the spa that you see that shows water moving in the spa when the pool is filtering? By the way your valves are set it looks to be the case. If so, blocking that equalizing line will result in the spa overflowing into that room unless the fill line also is blocked. You would then need to schedule a time for the spa to be filtered on its own.

 

[Jimrahbe]

drip,

When you are in the Pool mode, a little water should be going into your spa.. This water is what keeps your spa chlorinated.

Looking at your valves, it does not appear this is happening??? Does your spa turn green every few days?? How do you keep in chlorinated?

Thanks for the pics.. Can you show us a shot from the other side so that we can see the other side of your Return plumbing..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Pep3az]

drip,

When you are in the Pool mode, a little water should be going into your spa.. This water is what keeps your spa chlorinated.

Looking at your valves, it does not appear this is happening??? Does your spa turn green every few days?? How do you keep in chlorinated?

Thanks for the pics.. Can you show us a shot from the other side so that we can see the other side of your Return plumbing..

Thanks,

Jim R.

You can get a couple of these plugs:

Oatey Gripper 2 in. Plastic Mechanical Test Plug 33401D - The Home Depot

The Oatey 2 in. Mechanical Plastic Test Plug is designed for use to seal piping or to hold pressure while testing the piping system. The plug mechanically seals inside the pipe. Its plastic body will not rust or corrode.

www.homedepot.com

Put them in on each side and don't run your pump and see if the water level goes down at the same rate and that way you'll know if it's that pipe or somewhere else.

PEP3AZ

 

[lildrippy]

Thanks for the replies all. I should have mentioned that these pictures were after I had went ahead and started messing with stuff. Bad Drippy! Bad!
I plugged the line as an experiment...

blocking that equalizing line will result in the spa overflowing

I indeed came VERY close to overflowing the spa. It was probably a half-inch from the top.

Looking at your valves, it does not appear this is happening???

I adjusted the actuator after almost over-flowing the spa. It was previously angled to allow the spa to circulate with the pool water.

Put them in on each side and don't run your pump and see if the water level goes down at the same rate and that way you'll know if it's that pipe or somewhere else.

So it does seem like the water level is maintaining better than before. That said, it has been more cloudy outside recently, so I'm not sure how much that would affect it. Wish I'd have been more scientific in recording the rate of water loss when I did the bucket test... I'll go ahead and record the loss, while plugged, over the next 24/hrs and then unplug the pipe and do a measurement for comparison.

I know the spa not circulating isn't great... Would it be fine if I switched over to spa mode and ran it once a week or so? I can always balance the chlorine etc. for it separately.

Anyway, I'll get some more pics up! Thanks again everyone!

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for the replies all. I should have mentioned that these pictures were after I had went ahead and started messing with stuff. Bad Drippy! Bad!
I plugged the line as an experiment...

I indeed came VERY close to overflowing the spa. It was probably a half-inch from the top.

I adjusted the actuator after almost over-flowing the spa. It was previously angled to allow the spa to circulate with the pool water.

So it does seem like the water level is maintaining better than before. That said, it has been more cloudy outside recently, so I'm not sure how much that would affect it. Wish I'd have been more scientific in recording the rate of water loss when I did the bucket test... I'll go ahead and record the loss, while plugged, over the next 24/hrs and then unplug the pipe and do a measurement for comparison.

I know the spa not circulating isn't great... Would it be fine if I switched over to spa mode and ran it once a week or so? I can always balance the chlorine etc. for it separately.

Anyway, I'll get some more pics up! Thanks again everyone!

Once a week is not really enough, water will get stagnant even indoors. A daily run of about 20 minutes would work. You will have to manually keep the chemicals up. Also, with automation you need to disable the "spa" heater portion or it will heat at each use. Easy to do with a Jandy system. Just heat on use.