- Jun 22, 2021
- 51
- Pool Size
- 1000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Intex Krystal Clear
Hello. Searching for wisdom. 1000g above ground pool. Intex ECO 5110 SWG generator. Previously posted w issues having earlier this season w error codes. SWG 1 yr old and only 2 months of use last summer. In summary— got 91 repeatedly, so slowly added tons of salt, tested salt and it had gotten very high (~4700), but still got 91 error. Removed salt/water (down to ~3400), cleaned titanium electrode and still got 91 error. Intex finally replaced titanium electrode. Manually added chlorine (7.5% bleach or dichlor) in the interim.
(Side note, some of my tubes now seem to have something pink/red in their corrigation— red algae? pink sediment? any other ideas? Pic attached)
Excited for hope of SWG working after electrode replacement. Did an 8h boost and all seemed fine, then repeatedly got 92 error code, but salt not too high (~3300). Intex replaced control panel. Excited again that would finally work…
SWG adequate run time should be 1 hr for 1000gal pool, according to documentation. First boost was good and got FC of 5 within a few hours of it ending. Then started daily 2 hour run time cycles (an hour more than what should be needed, but wanted to be on slightly higher side for sanitizing given young kids in pool, meaning goal FC of 2-4 instead of Intex’s 0.5-3). But the morning after each cycle, checked it and FC consistently only 0-0.5, although, yea, finally now no error codes. Water started to get a little cloudy too. Called Intex and they said, among other useless things, I needed to buy another titanium electrode or replace the control panel again (return shipping at our expense). Not sure either of those is going to work— already now have brand new control panel and titanium electrode. So, did a trial 4 hour cycle and, immediately after, FC seemed good at ~3, but our pool is only 1000gal so shouldn’t need such a long cycle to get good FC levels. So then increased the nightly run time to 3 hours. 12 hrs after end of 3 hr cycle, tested again and FC 0.2 (didn’t test immediately after 3h cycle bc it was 3am…). I’ve been doing some extra cycles and/or adding chlorine occasionally when it’s low to make sure it doesn’t get cloudy.
Please help us figure out what is going on? I’m just trying to have the pool w FC consistently from 1-or-2 to 3-or-4.
Other info: pool covered w clear thermal bubble cover when not in use. In NYC sunlight ~half the day. Salt still ~3300. Using taylor K2006–
FC 0.2 (as above)
CC 0.8
CH ~100
pH 7.4
TA 110
CYA 70
Just now finished another trial 3 hr cycle and FC just after that cycle only 0.8. Interestingly it unequivocally turned clear after swirling 4 drops of reagent R0871 but before the next step ~1-2 min later, it was very slightly pink again (so maybe FC is really 1.0, but still). CC now 1.0
Seems like may be a combo of insufficient Cl generation by my SWG (but have no idea why that would be the case after control panel and titanium electrode just replaced an not getting any error codes) and increased Cl degradation. But why increased degradation? We only use the pool a few hours every 1-3days depending on the weather. We keep it covered (although not opaque so there will be some UV degradation) when not in use. CYA levels have been good (currently 70, but always have been 50-90). Could it be the red/pink stuff in some of the tubes? Would an opaque cover over the clear thermal bubble one make a significant difference?
Oh, TFP collective brain— what do you think is going on? Thank you for your wisdom!
(Side note, some of my tubes now seem to have something pink/red in their corrigation— red algae? pink sediment? any other ideas? Pic attached)
Excited for hope of SWG working after electrode replacement. Did an 8h boost and all seemed fine, then repeatedly got 92 error code, but salt not too high (~3300). Intex replaced control panel. Excited again that would finally work…
SWG adequate run time should be 1 hr for 1000gal pool, according to documentation. First boost was good and got FC of 5 within a few hours of it ending. Then started daily 2 hour run time cycles (an hour more than what should be needed, but wanted to be on slightly higher side for sanitizing given young kids in pool, meaning goal FC of 2-4 instead of Intex’s 0.5-3). But the morning after each cycle, checked it and FC consistently only 0-0.5, although, yea, finally now no error codes. Water started to get a little cloudy too. Called Intex and they said, among other useless things, I needed to buy another titanium electrode or replace the control panel again (return shipping at our expense). Not sure either of those is going to work— already now have brand new control panel and titanium electrode. So, did a trial 4 hour cycle and, immediately after, FC seemed good at ~3, but our pool is only 1000gal so shouldn’t need such a long cycle to get good FC levels. So then increased the nightly run time to 3 hours. 12 hrs after end of 3 hr cycle, tested again and FC 0.2 (didn’t test immediately after 3h cycle bc it was 3am…). I’ve been doing some extra cycles and/or adding chlorine occasionally when it’s low to make sure it doesn’t get cloudy.
Please help us figure out what is going on? I’m just trying to have the pool w FC consistently from 1-or-2 to 3-or-4.
Other info: pool covered w clear thermal bubble cover when not in use. In NYC sunlight ~half the day. Salt still ~3300. Using taylor K2006–
FC 0.2 (as above)
CC 0.8
CH ~100
pH 7.4
TA 110
CYA 70
Just now finished another trial 3 hr cycle and FC just after that cycle only 0.8. Interestingly it unequivocally turned clear after swirling 4 drops of reagent R0871 but before the next step ~1-2 min later, it was very slightly pink again (so maybe FC is really 1.0, but still). CC now 1.0
Seems like may be a combo of insufficient Cl generation by my SWG (but have no idea why that would be the case after control panel and titanium electrode just replaced an not getting any error codes) and increased Cl degradation. But why increased degradation? We only use the pool a few hours every 1-3days depending on the weather. We keep it covered (although not opaque so there will be some UV degradation) when not in use. CYA levels have been good (currently 70, but always have been 50-90). Could it be the red/pink stuff in some of the tubes? Would an opaque cover over the clear thermal bubble one make a significant difference?
Oh, TFP collective brain— what do you think is going on? Thank you for your wisdom!