O/B Pool Henderson Nevada..

[Chopjaw]

It's the same wire that needs to get connected. It usually comes out of the ground right where all the plumbing was stubbed up and that's where the tee should go anyway

Yep 10-4.

I understand the connection on the plumbing. I get that I need to wire from the plumbing (wtr bnd) to the ground (pool bnd). What I need to see is the connection from the single copper wire the wtr bnd to the ground wire. I’m guessing I need to either cut the pool bnd wire and use some type of 3way connector or a connector I can add to the gnd wire to the single wtr bnd wire coming from plumbing.

What I’m trying to avoid is buying the wrong connector and having the inspector say “wrong connector).

 

[bdavis466]

I don't follow. Grounding and bonding are two separate things and they should not be interconnected.

The bond wire will be bare copper and buried in the plumbing trench. It should have been clamped to the rebar cage and then run to the water bond tee then to the pump (s) and heater.

 

[Chopjaw]

I don't follow. Grounding and bonding are two separate things and they should not be interconnected.

The bond wire will be bare copper and buried in the plumbing trench. It should have been clamped to the rebar cage and then run to the water bond tee then to the pump (s) and heater.

Yes you are correct. Sorry my verbiage is wrong.

 

[Big Will]

So the copper wire that connects to my screen logic is for bonding? And if so is that enough for my pool?
The only thing I see in my setup is that copper wire that was tied to the rebar in multiple spots and then to the screen logic. Do I need to bond my pool as well

 

[Chopjaw]

Insert photo here

 

[Chopjaw]

 

[MinerJason]

So the copper wire that connects to my screen logic is for bonding? And if so is that enough for my pool?
The only thing I see in my setup is that copper wire that was tied to the rebar in multiple spots and then to the screen logic. Do I need to bond my pool as well

To bond your water you need the bond wire connected to something conductive that has at least 9 square inches of surface area in constant contact with the water. There are a lot of ways to accomplish this, and in older pools like mine the metal pool light niche does this very well. There are also bonding tees like being discussed, and bonding fittings that fit inside a skimmer.

The water, pump, rebar in the shell, rebar in the decking, and any heater or anything else electrical that's connected to the pool all need to be bonded together with a bonding wire.

The fitting for a water bonding tee threads into the tee, with one end in contact with the water inside the pipe, and the other side has a clamp to connect the bond wire to. You can buy the whole water bonding kit with the PVC tee, or just the fitting and build it yourself. The fitting looks like this:

http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/Perma-Cast-PB-2008-Water-Bonding-Fitting-1-NPT-Bronze/PB-2008.htm

 

[Big Will]

Thanks for the info!
And chop sorry to hijack the thread :/. I just got concerned especially with the kiddos

 

[Chopjaw]

To bond your water you need the bond wire connected to something conductive that has at least 9 square inches of surface area in constant contact with the water. There are a lot of ways to accomplish this, and in older pools like mine the metal pool light niche does this very well. There are also bonding tees like being discussed, and bonding fittings that fit inside a skimmer.

The water, pump, rebar in the shell, rebar in the decking, and any heater or anything else electrical that's connected to the pool all need to be bonded together with a bonding wire.



The fitting for a water bonding tee threads into the tee, with one end in contact with the water inside the pipe, and the other side has a clamp to connect the bond wire to. You can buy the whole water bonding kit with the PVC tee, or just the fitting and build it yourself. The fitting looks like this:

http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/Perma-Cast-PB-2008-Water-Bonding-Fitting-1-NPT-Bronze/PB-2008.htm

Yea 10-4 bud, I get all of that. Thanks man

 

[Chopjaw]

Thanks for the info!
And chop sorry to hijack the thread :/. I just got concerned especially with the kiddos

No worries bro, I’m sure you have one or the inspector missed it. Either way it’s an easy fix. For me it’s about connecting the end of the copper wire from the plumbing wtr bond to the existing copper wire from the pool that’s already connected to the pumps, heater...

 

[Keddkilla]

Something like this should work fine to connect the wire from your bond to the trench wire. They used these on mine (underground).

Big Will... When I asked the electricians about mine and why they didn't connect it, they told me that not every jurisdiction in Vegas requires it. LV city does supposedly(me), but I'm willing to bet that it depends on which inspector you get.

 

[MinerJason]

For me it’s about connecting the end of the copper wire from the plumbing wtr bond to the existing copper wire from the pool that’s already connected to the pumps, heater...

The ones I've seen had a split bolt connection on the end of the fitting, so you could just run your existing bond wire through the split bolt and tighten it down. No need to cut or splice anything. Looks like the one I linked above has the split bolt oriented the other way so that you can't run a wire through it, only into it. For that style fitting you'd need to run a short piece of 8ga copper from the bond wire to the fitting. To connect that short piece to the existing bond wire, I'd use a copper split bolt like the one you posted a pic of earlier (though that one appeared to have a bronze nut and saddle).

https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Union-C...sr=8-1-spons&keywords=copper+split+bolt&psc=1

 

[Chopjaw]

Passed plaster inspection. Now I have 3 of the most annoying alarms on my doors........

 

[Chopjaw]

Another question; how soon after pebble can you run the heater to warm the pool?

 

[kimkats]

A good rule of thumb is 30 days. You do NOT want any plaster running through your heater. It could clog things up

When you brush your plaster you may see the plaster dust come off. Once you do not see it any more then you can start to heater. Make good and sure you are not seeing "wishful thinking" though.

Kim

 

[Chopjaw]

A good rule of thumb is 30 days. You do NOT want any plaster running through your heater. It could clog things up

When you brush your plaster you may see the plaster dust come off. Once you do not see it any more then you can start to heater. Make good and sure you are not seeing "wishful thinking" though.

Kim

I am getting Mini Pebble. Not Plaster.

 

[kimkats]

Plaster is what hold the beads in so..............you do have some plaster. Less that will show but it is still there. That is where the "if you see plaster dust" comes in. No time line is solid for this very reason. It depends..............how it was started, how well it was done, what kind it is, etc.

Kim

 

[Big Will]

I waited 30 days as well but probably longer. It also part of the curing process

 

[bdavis466]

There are two reasons to wait:

Excessive plaster dust in the water - water when heated has a much higher potential to form scale and the most likely place it will begin to form is where the water is the warmest which is inside the heat exchanger.

Water chemistry - typical startups involve extremely low pH levels and that's the biggest enemy of copper (what heat exchangers are made of). Conversely, a bicarbonate startup maintains the water right on the edge of scale to begin with so the added heat will put it well into the danger range.

Since you're going with a pebble surface you'll like have it acid washed the day after it's applied and that should nearly eliminate most of the dust to begin with so minimal dust and balanced water - fire it up

 

[Chopjaw]

There are two reasons to wait:

Excessive plaster dust in the water - water when heated has a much higher potential to form scale and the most likely place it will begin to form is where the water is the warmest which is inside the heat exchanger.

Water chemistry - typical startups involve extremely low pH levels and that's the biggest enemy of copper (what heat exchangers are made of). Conversely, a bicarbonate startup maintains the water right on the edge of scale to begin with so the added heat will put it well into the danger range.

Since you're going with a pebble surface you'll like have it acid washed the day after it's applied and that should nearly eliminate most of the dust to begin with so minimal dust and balanced water - fire it up

thanks my man..