Not new to pool ownership but new to this pool

[Sunnymosmile]

Hi everyone! I just moved to TX from NC and the home we moved into has an existing pool. Im at a complete loss on how to operate anything about it. I’ve been trying to connect it to my phone with no luck. Today I tested the water with my TF-100 kit and these are not numbers I’ve ever seen in my pool. I’m at a loss on how to approach this without it turning into a swampy mess. I know I definitely need to grab some liquid chlorine and muriatic acid ASAP. Here are my test results:

FC: 2.5
CC: 0.5
PH: 8.2
CH: 275
TA: 100
Temp: 86°
CSI: .53
The little I know about the pool is:
Size: Length 31’ x Width 16.5’ x Depth (3.5 x 6’)
Features: waterfall, heater, spa
Equipment brand: Jandy
Pool Type: Plaster (Aquabrite?)

I’ve attached some pictures as well. I’ve never felt so lost! Any tips to gain a better understanding of how everything works? The previous owners didn’t leave any manuals behind and I believe they used a pool service.

 

[HermanTX]

Today I tested the water with my TF-100 kit and these are not numbers I’ve ever seen in my pool. I’m at a loss on how to approach this without it turning into a swampy mess.

The numbers are not that bad. You have the right approach. Bring down pH and raise FC. Use the FC/CYA Levels as your guidance based on your CYA.

I’ve been trying to connect it to my phone with no luck.

Based on the picture of the PDA (Pool Digital Assistant), it most likely only connects to the antenna connected to the outside cabinet. It does not show in your pictures, but do you have an antenna with a wire connected to the cabinet? You will have to connect the PDA to the system. It should already be sync to the right channel. Ensure you have batteries in the PDA.
Once we can identify the software revision of the PCB then we can determine if you can connect using your phone.

Any tips to gain a better understanding of how everything works? The previous owners didn’t leave any manuals behind and I believe they used a pool service.

You have a UV system for chlorination. You may want to consider just staying with liquid chlorine and then a possible replacement with a SWCG.
You have booster pump so you must have a pressure side cleaner.
I do not see any picture of your pump or suction lines.

 

[HermanTX]

One other item - you may want to update your signature to your current pool info.

Also, take the front plate off of your cabinet to show the circuit breakers and relays. That will help determine what capability your system may have. For future reference, you may also need to take the bezel and PCB out to take a picture of the back to determine what software revision you have.
Do you have a controller on the inside or just the PDA discussed earlier.

 

[Sunnymosmile]

One other item - you may want to update your signature to your current pool info.

Also, take the front plate off of your cabinet to show the circuit breakers and relays. That will help determine what capability your system may have. For future reference, you may also need to take the bezel and PCB out to take a picture of the back to determine what software revision you have.
Do you have a controller on the inside or just the PDA discussed earlier.

Thank you, Herman! I do have an Antenna but it’s not near the pool equipment. Here is a picture of the software version (if I’m doing this correctly).

See that’s one reason I’m confused. The realtor said it was a chlorinator. I did see one thing that said Nature2 and when I typed that in on the search bar for TFP it was nothing but bad news. Yay.

 

[Jimrahbe]

S,

It appears to me that you have an Ozone system, plus your Fusion "Chlorinator"... I see no wires going to the chlorinator, which means it uses chlorine tablets and a mineral cartridge..

With any kind of luck the mineral cartridge is empty.. I would just leave it that way. I would shut off the power to the "magic" Ozone machine.

You left out your CYA reading.. Without a CYA valve it is impossible to know what your FC should be. My guess is that your CYA is very high.. You need that value to know what to do next.

How did you chlorinate your old pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[HermanTX]

Thank you, Herman! I do have an Antenna but it’s not near the pool equipment. Here is a picture of the software version (if I’m doing this correctly).

Thanks. That is the newer PDA which I suspected but it only talks to the antenna that is connected to. It would be helpful to have a picture of the antenna. Also confirm the if this is your only way to connect to the system. You do not have an inside unit correct?
We can discuss more later.

 

[Sunnymosmile]

S,

It appears to me that you have an Ozone system, plus your Fusion "Chlorinator"... I see no wires going to the chlorinator, which means it uses chlorine tablets and a mineral cartridge..

With any kind of luck the mineral cartridge is empty.. I would just leave it that way. I would shut off the power to the "magic" Ozone machine.

You left out your CYA reading.. Without a CYA valve it is impossible to know what your FC should be. My guess is that your CYA is very high.. You need that value to know what to do next.

How did you chlorinate your old pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks Jim,

the CYA is 100! I had a SWG on my old pool. I’m considering it here but pool companies seem to be against it and I don’t have experience with concrete pools to understand why that would be. My last pool was vinyl. I know I need more chlorine than what’s in there for sure! Do all tabs that for chlorinators add CYA to the pool?

 

[V___25]

Do all tabs that for chlorinators add CYA to the pool?

generally yes. Also, you may want to do a diluted CYA test - there's a chance it's higher than 100. Use 1/2 tap water, 1/2 pool water, and the same amount of R-0013. then double your number.

 

[Jimrahbe]

I had a SWG on my old pool

S,

Turns out the Jandy sells a SWCG /mineral unit that is exactly the same shape as the one you have now.. I am not a Jandy guy, but I suspect all you would need to do is unscrew what you have, install the new unit with a SWCG, and just never use the mineral cartridge..

Let's see if @PoolGate has any advice..

Not all pool builder are against saltwater pools, just the ones that do not have a clue how a SWCG should work.

I'd rather fill my pool in, as not have it be a saltwater pool..

If your CYA is 100 or over, you need to get that level down before going too crazy with other chemicals..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[PoolGate]

Ha ha when you said "pool companies seem to be against it" I knew you were from TX. For sure you can get the FusionSoft 1400 which is a straight swap for your Fusion chlorine/mineral dispenser. Don't listen to them get the saltwater setup. Figure probably $1500 installed for the FusionSoft (no plumbing is needed but electrical is).

That is a PDA based system and it appears as it is working fine. That is an older PDA but still quite functional. It is not internet nor smartphone enabled. To do that, you'll need to purchase the IQ20-RS upgrade kit, which will probably run you $1500-$2000 installed. It requires the Aqualink PCB board to be replaced and you also get a 2nd WiFi antenna. You really don't need it unless you absolutely want smartphone app control of everything.

 

[Sunnymosmile]

Thanks. That is the newer PDA which I suspected but it only talks to the antenna that is connected to. It would be helpful to have a picture of the antenna. Also confirm the if this is your only way to connect to the system. You do not have an inside unit correct?
We can discuss more later.

I haven’t found an inside unit yet. I’m a little OCD so I’m wiping down walls. I haven’t come across anything yet. Here is a pic of the outside one though.

 

[PoolGate]

I haven’t found an inside unit yet. I’m a little OCD so I’m wiping down walls. I haven’t come across anything yet. Here is a pic of the outside one though.

That is the PDA antenna.

 

[Sunnymosmile]

S,

Turns out the Jandy sells a SWCG /mineral unit that is exactly the same shape as the one you have now.. I am not a Jandy guy, but I suspect all you would need to do is unscrew what you have, install the new unit with a SWCG, and just never use the mineral cartridge..

Let's see if @PoolGate has any advice..

Not all pool builder are against saltwater pools, just the ones that do not have a clue how a SWCG should work.

I'd rather fill my pool in, as not have it be a saltwater pool..

If your CYA is 100 or over, you need to get that level down before going too crazy with other chemicals..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks Jim. I suspected as much about the CYA as much but was hoping I was wrong.
One pool company just recommended a pentair SWG conversion kit. Cost is $2219 and install is $675 but they are on backorder.

 

[Sunnymosmile]

Ha ha when you said "pool companies seem to be against it" I knew you were from TX. For sure you can get the FusionSoft 1400 which is a straight swap for your Fusion chlorine/mineral dispenser. Don't listen to them get the saltwater setup. Figure probably $1500 installed for the FusionSoft (no plumbing is needed but electrical is).

That is a PDA based system and it appears as it is working fine. That is an older PDA but still quite functional. It is not internet nor smartphone enabled. To do that, you'll need to purchase the IQ20-RS upgrade kit, which will probably run you $1500-$2000 installed. It requires the Aqualink PCB board to be replaced and you also get a 2nd WiFi antenna. You really don't need it unless you absolutely want smartphone app control of everything.

Lol, ok well that makes me feel better that it’s a normal line. They have me questioning any knowledge I have about pools. And the pressure to get a pool service…phew! They can’t believe I want to do it myself!

I think I can hold off on the wifi access based on that cost, lol.

So, I was just telling Jim that ne pool company just recommended a pentair SWG conversion kit. Cost is $2219 and install is $675 but they are on backorder. Would you recommend the Fusionsoft over that?

 

[PoolGate]

Lol, ok well that makes me feel better that it’s a normal line. They have me questioning any knowledge I have about pools. And the pressure to get a pool service…phew! They can’t believe I want to do it myself!

I think I can hold off on the wood access based on that cost, lol.

So, I was just telling Jim that ne pool company just recommended a pentair SWG conversion kit. Cost is $2219 and install is $675 but they are on backorder. Would you recommend the Fusionsoft over that?

I love my FusionSoft (see my sigline we have almost identical equipment)! And, if you get the FusionSoft you will have full control over it via your PDA. If you go with the Pentair, you'll have to set everything on the actual SWG. Of course, with the FusionSoft you'll not use the mineral cartridge portion. With the FS1400 and your sized pool, you'll only need to set it at like 25% to keep your pool properly chlorinated. My pool is double your size and I keep mine right at 50% (pump running 24x7).

 

[HermanTX]

I haven’t found an inside unit yet. I’m a little OCD so I’m wiping down walls. I haven’t come across anything yet. Here is a pic of the outside one though.

That antenna looks like the older model. Also, if the previous owner installed a PDA, they most likely did not have an inside wall mounted controller but just wanted to verify that. I was trying to do a little more research regarding your AquaLink. Your PDA shows firmware 7.0. But we also need to know the revision of your PCB which is in the outside cabinet.

If you want to have internet and phone app access then you will need the iAquaLink antenna. The original model was called iQ20-A and they just recently released a newer version iQ30-A. The newer version has improved wi-fi to work with mesh router systems in the home.

The iQ20 manual indicates that it is compatible with PDA vers 6 or higher and also PCB rev R or higher. So I am hoping that you simply have to unplug the old antenna, purchase the 2.0 or 3.0 antenna and you will have PC and phone app access. However, we need to verify that the PCB in the outside cabinet is the correct version.
I have put below the cover of the manual that shows the revision compatible to the new antenna.
Also shown is how look at the back of the PCB in the outside cabinet to verify the revision of its firmware.
Unfortunately, Jandy does not update its firmware over the internet. You physically have to purchase a new PCB so we just need to see what yours is.

BTW - I had the older PDA which was revision 5.0 and an old PCB so I had to purchase both a new PCB and the 3.0 Antenna. That cost me $1600 (with installation) to give you an estimate.

There is no hurry to do this because you have access with your PDA but if and when you choose to have access via phone and/or PC you will need to review all of this.

 

[PoolGate]

That antenna looks like the older model. Also, if the previous owner installed a PDA, they most likely did not have an inside wall mounted controller but just wanted to verify that. I was trying to do a little more research regarding your AquaLink. Your PDA shows firmware 7.0. But we also need to know the revision of your PCB which is in the outside cabinet.

If you want to have internet and phone app access then you will need the iAquaLink antenna. The original model was called iQ20-A and they just recently released a newer version iQ30-A. The newer version has improved wi-fi to work with mesh router systems in the home.

The iQ20 manual indicates that it is compatible with PDA vers 6 or higher and also PCB rev R or higher. So I am hoping that you simply have to unplug the old antenna, purchase the 2.0 or 3.0 antenna and you will have PC and phone app access. However, we need to verify that the PCB in the outside cabinet is the correct version.
I have put below the cover of the manual that shows the revision compatible to the new antenna.
Also shown is how look at the back of the PCB in the outside cabinet to verify the revision of its firmware.
Unfortunately, Jandy does not update its firmware over the internet. You physically have to purchase a new PCB so we just need to see what yours is.

BTW - I had the older PDA which was revision 5.0 and an old PCB so I had to purchase both a new PCB and the 3.0 Antenna. That cost me $1600 (with installation) to give you an estimate.

There is no hurry to do this because you have access with your PDA but if and when you choose to have access via phone and/or PC you will need to review all of this.

View attachment 373238View attachment 373239View attachment 373240

This isn't how it works. She has a PDA based system. If she wastes (yes, wastes) her money on the useless IQ20-a upgrade she gains nothing except the ability to turn things on and off with her phone. Big deal she can do that with the PDA. She would still need to keep the PDA (and antenna) for programming and any other complex operation like scheduling. On the other hand, the IQ20-RS replaces the PCB (from PDA to RS) and turns the system from being a PDA based system to the full Web-based RS system. She can keep her PDA but it simply becomes an on/off gadget. The phone app option under the RS system allows for full system and access from the phone unlike the PDA based system.

 

[Jimrahbe]

S,

If I were in your shoes, I would go with the Fusion 1400 (with SWCG)...

I would never use a Pentair SWCG unless I had a Pentair automation system...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[stricttime]

I'll add my .02 and say stay away from Jandy. The guy who works on my equipment said that they loved installing Jandy SWG because of all the maintenance calls they would get $$$. They certainly got a lot of my money until I switched it for a circupool!

 

[Jimrahbe]

S,

If you want the automation to control the salt system, it generally means buying the same brand of SWCG as the automation....

If you are running a standalone salt system, then it does not matter and just pick the one you want.

Thanks,

Jim R.