Noob to the forum. Looking for CYA advice

[Kaptain]

Yikes!!!! Slam that pool.
FC 3 means your raised the drop volume by slowing down. GOOD JOB!!!
Get your CYA started soaking in the pool, couple socks full, tie them off and hang in front of returns. Use pool math for amounts. May take a couple refills.
pH is great for SLAM.
Once the sock is in the pool, raise your FC to 12.
After 1/2 hour of sock in pool, start squeezing.
Pump on for 24/7 now.
Follow the SLAM instructions you have!
Great job!!!

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• PoolStored
• May 2, 2025

2.5 gallons of LC and 8lbs of dry stabilizer

 

[PoolStored]

Creative! One of the better rigs I've seen!
Start squeezing in 30 minutes!!!

 

[PoolStored]

You know, I came back to this two times and couldn't figure out what was bothering me....
You want them hanging in front of the RETURNS (where water comes back into the pool), so that you get higher speed flow, not in front of skimmers.

 

[Kaptain]

You know, I came back to this two times and couldn't figure out what was bothering me....
You want them hanging in front of the RETURNS (where water comes back into the pool), so that you get higher speed flow, not in front of skimmers.

Oh ya. I took a break after 10 minutes of squeezing. Ill move it.
I have another 8lbs to add if necessary tomorrow.
Can I add salt now or wait till the slam is done?

 

[PoolStored]

Can I add salt now or wait till the slam is done?

Sure, gives you something to do. Remember, you have 1000 already in. Did you look in your manual, get min and max, and average the two? Did you configure min/max/target in PoolMath? Then (with SWG OFF-high salt content slugs going into skimmer with SWG can damage plates), add 2/3rds the amount to get from 1000 to target. Add it. Shallow end. I can do about 4 bags at a time. Brush Back and forth, back and forth until it is dissolved. Repeat until you've added the 2/3rds. Wait 24 hours, retest, then add the rest to get to target.

 

[Kaptain]

Sure, gives you something to do. Remember, you have 1000 already in. Did you look in your manual, get min and max, and average the two? Did you configure min/max/target in PoolMath? Then (with SWG OFF-high salt content slugs going into skimmer with SWG can damage plates), add 2/3rds the amount to get from 1000 to target. Add it. Shallow end. I can do about 4 bags at a time. Brush Back and forth, back and forth until it is dissolved. Repeat until you've added the 2/3rds. Wait 24 hours, retest, then add the rest to get to target.

Ya it says 3000 to 4000 and ill need 15 bags. I only bought 6 so ill start with that

 

[PoolStored]

That will give you a good indication that your pool volume is correct. And learn how salt dissolves for you.
What did you buy?
Nice Job!!!

 

[Kaptain]

That will give you a good indication that your pool volume is correct. And learn how salt dissolves for you.
What did you buy?
Nice Job!!!

 

[PoolStored]

Looks ok to me. In any event, you want blue bags of any salt, don't use green, yellow, anything with iron out, etc.

As a general rule for chemicals/products your are consider, even beyond salt, you can, if you have the product name, search for "product name SDS" and get the ingredients. If they are "proprietary blend" avoid it.

Diamond Crystals Solar Naturals, and their Pool Salt tend to be really good (not contaminants) and are available at HD/Lowes. Avoid Morton and Clorox salt. Lots of reports of iron staining (contaminants).

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Kaptain]

Looks ok to me. In any event, you want blue bags of any salt, don't use green, yellow, anything with iron out, etc.

As a general rule for chemicals/products your are consider, even beyond salt, you can, if you have the product name, search for "product name SDS" and get the ingredients. If they are "proprietary blend" avoid it.

Diamond Crystals Solar Naturals, and their Pool Salt tend to be really good (not contaminants) and are available at HD/Lowes. Avoid Morton and Clorox salt. Lots of reports of iron staining (contaminants).

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

This came from HD

 

[PoolStored]

Products in the PNW just seem to be different than what we see elsewhere...

Let us know how the extra course works...it may take longer to dissolve that the crystals...but they will dissolve.

 

[Kaptain]

2.5 gallons of LC and 8lbs of dry stabilizer

8:30pm now
FC is 0.5?
Seems like I went backwards

 

[PoolStored]

8:30pm now
FC is 0.5?
Seems like I went backwards

Now you are killing stuff. All good young padawan...trust the force...

Don't like trusting?

OK, fine. CC elimination takes significant chlorination...if you want the science, here it is:

Pool Chemistry - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Kaptain]

Oh no I trust the process, just trying to understand how I have been maintaining a FC of 4 day after day by adding 107oz of LC. But once I add 2.5 gallons it goes away.
Then again that was with the dpd test

 

[PoolStored]

The chlorine you added just staved off algae growth, and led to some *likely* minor CC elimination or maintenance of status quo. The chemistry is complex WRT the controlling/eliminating CC and killing algae. CC elimination (break point chlorination) will take some significant amount of chlorine to eliminate the chloramines, and will kill any algae.

Just follow the SLAM process. All will be good.

Your future: Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[PoolStored]

I made a big mistake earlier, which @proavia caught.

When using FAS-DPD, 10mL sample, each drop is .5FC, not 1 FC as I said.

Hope you caught that and are clear.

 

[P00LNerd]

How long should I wait in between drops. The CC test was 2 drops to clear but after 20 seconds or so a pink tint came back. So I added a 3rd.

Not to add to your start-up / change-over expenses, but the Taylor SpeedStir is a life-saver, when using these test kits. Some of the best 45 dollars I ever spent. And if you care about getting it cuick versus another $20, Amazon has it for $65.

I would have a lot more trouble having the patience to get consistent measurements while trying to hand-swirl the tube, versus letting the SpeedStir do its thing.

Another huge time-saver is their SampleSizer. I'd not want to do this without both, but if just spending for one vs. the other, the SpeedStir is more important than the SampleSizer.

 

[Kaptain]

Not to add to your start-up / change-over expenses, but the Taylor SpeedStir is a life-saver, when using these test kits. Some of the best 45 dollars I ever spent. And if you care about getting it cuick versus another $20, Amazon has it for $65.

I would have a lot more trouble having the patience to get consistent measurements while trying to hand-swirl the tube, versus letting the SpeedStir do its thing.

Another huge time-saver is their SampleSizer. I'd not want to do this without both, but if just spending for one vs. the other, the SpeedStir is more important than the SampleSizer.

I may actually order that SpeedStir, that looks handy. Thanks for mentioning this.

 

[Kaptain]

This morning's test was much better. FC was 9.5 and so I only had to add 90oz of chlorine before heading to work.

 

[Kaptain]

Just got home and tested.
FC is 12, CC is 2.5