No lights on Hayward 250hed pool heater control panel.

[ravend]

I've searched through the forum without success.

I have a 9 year old Hayward 250hed natural gas pool heater who's control board recently went blank after trying to adjust the temperature.

I tested for voltage at the line side and have 28v on the load side of the transformer. I took the board out with no signs of discoloration or obvious failure. Cleaned with iso alcohol. But no success. Confirmed voltage at wire harness.

Ended up grabbing a new board but still no go. No lights.

I've checked for continuity across all the sensors.

Am I missing something? Could it be that the transformer can put out volts but no current?
Or is it expecting another input voltage from some other source.

From what I can tell from the schematic the board simply checks to make sure the failsafe are good. Sends 6v to the the gas valve to open it and the ignights.

Really need to get this fixed.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

I would check the continuity of all the wires from the sensors to the board. It sounds like the board is seeing one of the sensors open.

@swamprat69 may have ideas.

 

[swamprat69]

Not sure from your information exactly which version of the Hayward H series heater you have. An overall photo of the heater with the front cover off along with a closer photo of the gas valve with the specifications tag and the heater model/serial number tag would be helpful. I don't know of any gas valves that operate at 6V? Millivolt gas valves operate at ~ .6V and others mostly operate at 24V. With more information, I may be able to help with troubleshooting. The closest model that I can find is a Hayward H250 ED1 in either millivolt or electronic ignition.

 

[ravend]

Thanks for your input.

The model is a Hayward H250-ED2C. I am probably have the 6V incorrectly since I was just reading this off the control board.

I am including pics of the heater with the cover off, the serial/model plate and control board for reference.

I concluded that the board should light up and throw an error code if there was a problem with a sensor but again this may be the wrong approach. @ajw22

Any help would be appreciated @swamprat69

 

[swamprat69]

It looks like you have everything taken apart. You might have a problem with the "keypad/display" rather than the control module. I would check the wire trace fron the control module to the keypad/display and the keypad/display circuit board itself for any physical damage or sign of overheating. I have a hayward H400IDL2BH that I have had to replace the keypad/display because of display and indicator light problems. If the keypad/display is not getting DC power from the control board for some reason, it would result in no display and no heater operation. It isn't the easiest thing to replace while trying to maintain the gasket seal around the display.

 

[ravend]

Thx @swamprat69 looks like the lcd display is soldered on this board and not replaceable.

Pool store ordered me another control panel. Assuming it must be defective since nothing else could be the problem.

I'll update you once it arrives and is installed.

 

[ravend]

So I'm still stumped. I received a brand new board from the pool store and still nothing.

Retested the wiring harness and I have 28 volts.

Can anyone confirm if bench testing the board by providing 24v to the necessary pins will make the board light up?

I see nothing in the schematic that requires power or confirmation that something else needs to be checked. Like the sensors are all just in series.

Does the gas valve provide any input to allow the board to turn on? I assumed no since its the control board that tells the valve to open, then ignite.

Only thing I can think of is the transformer must be bad.

Thanks.

 

[swamprat69]

Did the new control board include a new keypad and bezel? Where are you measuring the 28 volts?? Is the 3A fuse on the ciruit board good??

 

[ravend]

Thanks for the reply @swamprat69

The new control panel came as one piece and included a new lcd screen.

I am measuring the 28 VAC at the transformer load side and also at the wire harness pin connector female side using the 24 and ground connectors.

I did not check for continuity across the fuse on the new board but the fuse on the original board was fine as I did check as part of the diagnostic.

I'll check the fuse as soon as I can.

Thx. Daven

 

[ravend]

Checked the fuse all is good. Only thing I can imagine is wrong is the transformer. So inwill replace it. Thx.

 

[ravend]

Checked the fuse all is good. Only thing I can imagine is wrong is the transformer. So inwill replace it. Thx.

So. After weeks of troubleshooting I manged to get a new board to work. Not sure what I did that actually fixed it.

Basically I replaced the incoming electrical (220 into the transformer) from the timer to the heater. Removed and cleaned transformer and wires, including sanding the ground connection. Reseeded all the pins and used hot glue to secure them. Cleaned and reconnect gas valve wiring.

Plugged in a second new board and it worked. I havent tried the old board to see if it could work. Just thankful I have a working heater!

Also. Hayward was completel useless. They recommended changing every component. I asked a specific question - what is required to bench test the board? And what inputs if any were needed to have the board light up.

When this heater is completely broken I will look for a milivolt system without the electronics. Really hope something like this exists. A simple heater that calls for heat, with a pilot light, safety sensors in series with the switch and a mechanical temp sensor. Like a fireplace.

Thx @swamprat69