Hi all, so I have a pentair easy touch control system and the display is not reading anything. I have flipped the circuit at the bottom, there is light on intelchlor status but the buttons don't do anything and there is nothing on the display, just blank. It has always worked fine. I opened it up and checked with multimeter and there appears to be power. Does anyone have any ideas here? Is there a fuse somewhere that may be blown I could be overlooking? I've checked the GFI outlets around yard and they are all fine and not tripped. Thanks!
No display on Pentair easy touch control system
- Thread starter Chmartin1
- Start date
Martin,
What power did you test? I assume you tested the 120/240 coming into the the load center.. Did you drop the main board down and check the low voltage inputs? Did you check the 3 or 4 small circuit breakers in the upper right of the cabinet?
Let's see if Tom has any suggestions.. Calling @ogdento
Thanks,
Jim R.
What power did you test? I assume you tested the 120/240 coming into the the load center.. Did you drop the main board down and check the low voltage inputs? Did you check the 3 or 4 small circuit breakers in the upper right of the cabinet?
Let's see if Tom has any suggestions.. Calling @ogdento
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hey Martin,
If the display is blank - and the buttons don't do anything - then it sounds to me like it can't boot up... If you have a screenlogic, an indoor controller, or a wireless remote you can see if anything can talk to the ET board - which will tell us for sure if it's running or not. If you can get any functions on the outdoor board to work, it could be a bad display (likely the elastomeric strips inside it)
I think poolclown mentioned a while ago that these can get jammed up by shorts/surges/etc and sometimes clearing the eeprom helps (sorry if i'm mis-remembering). But I guess in your case if you can't see any menus that's not going to work.
I did recently have a possibly similar situation with a guy's intellitouch indoor panel... it would just turn on to a blank screen - I could see on my oscilloscope that it had a heartbeat (controller clock was running, there was data on some spi lines), so on a lark I reflashed the firmware and it started working.
If the display is blank - and the buttons don't do anything - then it sounds to me like it can't boot up... If you have a screenlogic, an indoor controller, or a wireless remote you can see if anything can talk to the ET board - which will tell us for sure if it's running or not. If you can get any functions on the outdoor board to work, it could be a bad display (likely the elastomeric strips inside it)
I think poolclown mentioned a while ago that these can get jammed up by shorts/surges/etc and sometimes clearing the eeprom helps (sorry if i'm mis-remembering). But I guess in your case if you can't see any menus that's not going to work.
I did recently have a possibly similar situation with a guy's intellitouch indoor panel... it would just turn on to a blank screen - I could see on my oscilloscope that it had a heartbeat (controller clock was running, there was data on some spi lines), so on a lark I reflashed the firmware and it started working.
Hey thanks so much for the replies. It finally stopped raining and I am going to check it out today and go over the things mentioned here. I will circle back shortly. Thanks!!
Hey so please forgive my lack of knowledge here. This panel has always worked flawlessly and this is the first time I have had to mess with it. So the circuit breakers to right are all loose. I'm assuming a blew a fuse somewhere? I took this quick video below to show you what I'm looking at. Thanks for any help!!
Martin,
If all four small circuit breakers felt the same, then most likely they are ok.. All four would not pop at the same time.. The ET uses circuit breakers, as far as I know there are no fuses..
I suggest that you use your voltmeter and test the voltage coming into the main board..
Drop the main panel down and you will see the main board. In the upper right of the board you will see a plug were 10 volts, 18 volts and 24 volts AC come into the board. The board should be labeled and you can test and see if you have those voltages. I would test with the plug installed by testing on the side of the plug where you can see the pins.
If you are not comfortable doing this type of testing, I would contact a local technician.
You can also disconnect any valves where they plug into the main board, just to makes sure that a valve has not failed and is loading down the transformer.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If all four small circuit breakers felt the same, then most likely they are ok.. All four would not pop at the same time.. The ET uses circuit breakers, as far as I know there are no fuses..
I suggest that you use your voltmeter and test the voltage coming into the main board..
Drop the main panel down and you will see the main board. In the upper right of the board you will see a plug were 10 volts, 18 volts and 24 volts AC come into the board. The board should be labeled and you can test and see if you have those voltages. I would test with the plug installed by testing on the side of the plug where you can see the pins.
If you are not comfortable doing this type of testing, I would contact a local technician.
You can also disconnect any valves where they plug into the main board, just to makes sure that a valve has not failed and is loading down the transformer.
Thanks,
Jim R.
There should be a circuit breaker in the main house panel that goes to the pool system.
Locate the breaker, turn it off and then back on.
Locate the breaker, turn it off and then back on.
I was hoping it was just a breaker in the house but no luck. So I took the front cover off and confirmed power is going to the display. Any other ideas?
Also I'm trying not to go green so does anyone know of a way to manually turn on the pump? All I have ever used is this control panel. The pump is a Hayward 2 hp superpump.
Also I'm trying not to go green so does anyone know of a way to manually turn on the pump? All I have ever used is this control panel. The pump is a Hayward 2 hp superpump.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,383
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Keep adding liquid chlorine to maintain your FC as shown in FC/CYA Levels
Mix it around with your brush or whatever. Do you have a sub pump? You can use that move the water to mix in the chlorine.
Mix it around with your brush or whatever. Do you have a sub pump? You can use that move the water to mix in the chlorine.
Martin,
Since you have a single speed pump, you can do it by bypassing the pump/filter relay.. If you move the wires from the load (output) side of the relay and wire them to the Line (input) side of the relay, the pump will get constant power.. Not ideal of course as the pump will run 24/7, but you can just shut off the breaker to turn off the pump.
Just an emergency thing until you can get the ET fixed.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Since you have a single speed pump, you can do it by bypassing the pump/filter relay.. If you move the wires from the load (output) side of the relay and wire them to the Line (input) side of the relay, the pump will get constant power.. Not ideal of course as the pump will run 24/7, but you can just shut off the breaker to turn off the pump.
Just an emergency thing until you can get the ET fixed.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hey one other thing... the cable on your comm port... looks like it goes to an intellichlor? Before rewiring the pump per Jim's instructions, you might try powering down the system, unplugging the comm port cable and powering back up... just to make sure that isn't messing you up.
I just realized that I do get a power reading on the transformer plug on the 10 and 18 vac but no power on the 24 vac (red white in pic). Is that my problem? I did unplug intellichor and plug it back in.
Martin,
It is a problem, not sure it is the problem... It could be the following:
A bad transformer... possible but unlikely..
The 24 VAC circuit breaker is popped..
Something on the main board is loading the 24 VAC down.
I suggest that you disconnect the plug and see if you have voltage on the cable, if you do, then most likely the board is bad or an input is loading the board down.
Let us know what you find..
The 24 VAC is used to power the valves, but not sure if it is used for anything else. If you have any valve actuators, I would unplug them from the main board.
Thanks,
Jim R.
It is a problem, not sure it is the problem... It could be the following:
A bad transformer... possible but unlikely..
The 24 VAC circuit breaker is popped..
Something on the main board is loading the 24 VAC down.
I suggest that you disconnect the plug and see if you have voltage on the cable, if you do, then most likely the board is bad or an input is loading the board down.
Let us know what you find..
The 24 VAC is used to power the valves, but not sure if it is used for anything else. If you have any valve actuators, I would unplug them from the main board.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks so much for the help. So I disconnected the plug and there is no power in the cables. Cables only show power when plugged in
that doesn't seem right... if it's unplugged there should be 12/18/24vac on the system transformer connector. sometime's it's hard to get a good test contact with the probes - so I use pointy probes or a pin or short length of small wire that i can insert into the connector.
On the male connection in pic below there is power on the 10 vac and 18 vac but not the 24. On the cable side female I only see power when plugged in. I am placing the multimeter on that exposed metal strip of the female plug. When plugged in it shows power when not plugged in it does not show power on female side. I'm assuming that is how to test the cables for power. Is that right?
The voltage is coming in from the cable into the board.. You can't test the board without the cable plugged into it.
Jim R.
Jim R.
Ha! Easy mistake to make... try testing the voltages on the red 6-pin connector in the top right of the photo
Oh, and when you test the voltages, you have to test them in pairs... In your photo above it looks like you have your black lead connected maybe to the panel case (ground)... that's not going to work. On the red system transformer connector, test the leftmost pair of wires together (black lead on one, red on the other), then repeat for the middle and rightmost pairs.