Next Steps on Resurrecting a (formerly) Lost Cause

Manson Meags

New member
Jul 7, 2021
3
Manson, Washington
First time poster here! I've knew absolutely NOTHING about pools and pool chemistry until my husband threw his hands up in the air about two months ago, and transferred the responsibility to me. Bought a Taylor K2005 test kit, and got to work testing and educating myself. Everything with our pool chemistry was off. Turns out he was relying solely on test strips that had been stored incorrectly, so it was bad. The pool looked great (crystal clear), but otherwise it was not okay. Here is what I've done in the last couple months:

1. CYA was off the charts high (300+ ppm). We have a 12,000-gallon inground outdoor pool with a vinyl liner. We are on a steep slope and draining was not an option for us unless we want to flood the neighbors below or the apple orchard across the street. So BioActive it was, absent any other remedy I could find. It took 11 bags over seven weeks. It came down very slowly until miraculously last week, it finally dropped from 140 to 40 overnight.

2. In the meantime, I lowered the alkalinity using muriatic acid. That took about a week and was in normal range. The pH followed suit with a minor chemical adjustment.

3. Calcium hardness was next. It was a little low, and was easy to raise.

4. We clearly had a chlorine demand issue, so I researched and started SLAMing the pool once the CYA was low enough. I used the TFP chart along with sodium hypo (varying from 7.5-12% depending on what we could get our hands on in our little town in North Central Washington). We have been scrubbing, vacuuming, skimming, changing and cleaning the cartridge filters, and adding water as needed. The last two days, I've been checking the FC at least every two hours and adding more chlorine to stay at SLAM level. This morning, we had chlorine loss overnight from 14 down to 5 ppm, but TC and FC were identical, so less than 0.5 CC. At that lower level of chlorine, I decided to double-check CYA, and it raised from 30-50. I adjusted the SLAM level accordingly and am going to keep after it today. I'm afraid of stopping too soon and having to start over. The pool is definitely milky, but slowly getting clearer.

Hopefully I'm doing everything right. It definitely is taking a long time, but it seems like my patience is paying off? I'm afraid of stopping the SLAM too soon, so any advice/direction from experienced pool folks would be much appreciated. I'd like to know how long it might take for the FC to drop to an acceptable level and the water to completely clear. I've got a small human coming to swim in the pool this Saturday, but only if everything is healthy, balanced, and safe.
 
Hello Meags and welcome to TFP.

Seems you are already in the right track and that is great.

The SLAM has a 3 point exit criteria:
1 - Pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
2 - CC <= 0.5ppm
3 - Crystal clear water

The first two are chemical measures. It is going to tell if you still have something in the water consuming your chlorine and how recently your chlorine destroyed some organic matter.

The third one can be a bit subjective, but it covers scenarios where suspended debris (usually dead algae) could be shielding some algae from chlorine.

SLAM can be a long process. Some more traumatized folks would keep the SLAM for another day after the exit criteria is met just to be sure the algae is gone.

Also your pool is safe to swim as long as pH is on the 7s, you FC is at or below SLAM and you can see the bottom (the later is due to drowning concerns). Of course, assuming you did not add any other chemicals.

Regarding the test kit… the chlorine measurements of the K2005 is not that reliable and for truly SLAM your pool You really need a FAS-DPD test that is not included on the K2005. You can get just the needed here.
 
Also, for folks here to give you good advice, can you Create Your Signature - Further Reading.

At first glance CH is not relevant due to your Vinyl liner, but it plays a role in the corrosiveness of your water and that may change depending o your pool equipment (ex heater). Anyway, using PoolMath to calculate your CSI is better than relying on CH alone.
 
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