Next project - pool equipment pad and replumb

[JoyfulNoise]

Hayward cell is good and has excellent salinity readout. CompuPool has much better chlorine output. I’d get a CompuPool over a Hayward but neither is a bad choice.

 

[MasterTinkerer]

I chose the Hayward over the circupool based on reading several threads from the past couple years. I will stick with the tried-and-true over the brand that was getting bashed pretty hard just a short time ago.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I chose the Hayward over the circupool based on reading several threads from the past couple years. I will stick with the tried-and-true over the brand that was getting bashed pretty hard just a short time ago.

There was a confusion many years ago with a company called CompuPool (or maybe it was ComPool) and CircuPool. CircuPool I think was acting as a US distributor for CompuPool SWGs and they turned out to be total junk with horrible customer service. CircuPool quickly ended the business relationship but they got quite a black eye from it and for over a year or so after that incidence, CircuPool was still having their products confused with CompuPool junk.

Anyway, CircuPool did the best they could to help folks out and recover from that experience. So be a little careful with old threads on CircuPool because they can be misleading. I think there’s actually a user on here that works for CircuPool and helps out with system issues when they pop up.

 

[MasterTinkerer]

Roger that on the confusion.

If I'm understanding the Dolphin stuff correctly, the Cayman is the same as the S200... right?

Amazon has it for $697, so I think I'm ready to take the leap (based on the feedback that I hear). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I46AQWI/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Should I spend $20 more for the 4-year square trade protection plan?

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Roger that on the confusion.

If I'm understanding the Dolphin stuff correctly, the Cayman is the same as the S200... right?

Amazon has it for $697, so I think I'm ready to take the leap (based on the feedback that I hear). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I46AQWI/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Should I spend $20 more for the 4-year square trade protection plan?

But why is it that the Amazon reviews really favor the Nautilus Plus? Big difference in ratings...

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I went brick & mortar on my robot purchase because the shop is 3 miles from my house and I wanted to have that local support rather than trying to haggle with a customer service call center in Indonesia trying to tell me to ship the unit to Godknowswhere Mississippi for service (I think that’s right next BumbleFudge Louisiana...). Anyway, maybe hold off on the purchase for a day and I’ll see if our robot service repair expert can chime in.

 

[thebombardier]

Roger that on the confusion.

If I'm understanding the Dolphin stuff correctly, the Cayman is the same as the S200... right?

Amazon has it for $697, so I think I'm ready to take the leap (based on the feedback that I hear). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I46AQWI/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Should I spend $20 more for the 4-year square trade protection plan?

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But why is it that the Amazon reviews really favor the Nautilus Plus? Big difference in ratings...

The Cayman is pretty much an S200, yes. I don't know the exact warranty and technical differences when it comes to cycle time and filter choice.

The Nautilus Plus might get higher ratings because it's Maytronics older robot architecture that's more proven. The chassis/motor combo the Cayman is based on has only been out for 3-4 years, may just be a lot of initial kinks that didn't get worked out before the Cayman hit the market. The chassis is a lot more durable now. I've only had one S200 come back to my shop under warranty and I've been selling them for 3 years now.

 

[MasterTinkerer]

I went brick & mortar on my robot purchase because the shop is 3 miles from my house and I wanted to have that local support rather than trying to haggle with a customer service call center in Indonesia trying to tell me to ship the unit to Godknowswhere Mississippi for service (I think that’s right next BumbleFudge Louisiana...). Anyway, maybe hold off on the purchase for a day and I’ll see if our robot service repair expert can chime in.

But I live in Timbuk7 Alabama (just past Timbuk2)... so those places are just "over yonder". I hear what you are saying... will try to find a local Pool Store and see what they have to offer. I just really prefer internet shopping over heading out into the traffic!

The Cayman is pretty much an S200, yes. I don't know the exact warranty and technical differences when it comes to cycle time and filter choice.

The Nautilus Plus might get higher ratings because it's Maytronics older robot architecture that's more proven. The chassis/motor combo the Cayman is based on has only been out for 3-4 years, may just be a lot of initial kinks that didn't get worked out before the Cayman hit the market. The chassis is a lot more durable now. I've only had one S200 come back to my shop under warranty and I've been selling them for 3 years now.

Thanks Bombardier! If I don't find something at the pool store, is it safe to opt for the Cayman or do I need to stick to the more proven S200?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

If you do find a brick & mortar store within driving distance of your remote forest hideout, see if they offer a loaner/demo program. Two of the shops I looked at offered to give me a unit for a few days (just had to leave a few pints of blood and my first-born as a deposit) to try it out and kick the tires a bit. They also use the demo units as loaners when robot owners need repair service and don’t want to be out a cleaner. Worth it to ask around...

 

[MasterTinkerer]

I have a several more questions (as I plan for the weekend activities). I hate to ask multiple questions at once, but here it goes...

Electric:
I've read about the need for a surge protector (HEPD80 is what I saw everyone recommend)... I do not have a sub-panel at the pool pad - my run goes from my garage panel through the basement to the outside of the house at the pad and into the Intermatic timer. I'm guessing its about a 40' run.

Q1 - Do I need the HEPD80 or is an HEPD50 sufficient?
Q2 - Based on the 40' line run, I'm thinking that it should be installed nearer the pump. Can I tie it directly into the Intermatic timer? Or would it be better to put a Junction box in the basement where the run makes the turn to go outside?

Plumbing in the pool:
Pressure - My pool has two return eyes (shown by the yellow arrows), and the one line for the Polaris (green arrow). Along with that, I have 3 ports that are plugged (grey arrows)... I'll come to that later.
Suction - there is the one skimmer (next to the Polaris - green arrow), and one main drain in the bottom of the deep end (~8' deep)

Q3 - what should I do with the Polaris line? Keep it there or use it for something else?



Plugged ports:
The earlier mentioned plugged ports are bubblers (I think). There is an air control on the top of the steps. They have been plugged since I moved into the house. The previous owner's pool guy said that the bubblers had a leak, so they stopped using them. I took the plugs out once and turned on the 3rd valve on the pressure side, but nothing came out... absolutely nothing. So it doesn't really seem like a simple leak... it seems like there is a complete blockage.

Q4 - Is it worth the bother to try to figure out where the leak or blockage is and try to fix it? Any suggestions on how?


Plumbing at the pad:
I have more questions, but am out of time to get them all together now... will post the rest of the questions later.


As always, thank you for the advice!!!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You want the SPD at the panel on its own separate breakers. So, unless you plan to put a sub-panel out by the equipment pad, I would just install the SPD at the panel. It will still work and protect your pump. I’d get the HEPD80.

As for the Polaris line...can you convert it to another return? Depends on the line diameter I suppose. Some people recommission them as a water feature port for DIY fountain coolers.

Leaky/blocked bubblers....what about putting a DrainKing in the line at the pad and seeing if you can force water out of it using a garden hose? Otherwise it’s digging up lines and jackhammering the deck to get at the pool connections

 

[MasterTinkerer]

You want the SPD at the panel on its own separate breakers. So, unless you plan to put a sub-panel out by the equipment pad, I would just install the SPD at the panel. It will still work and protect your pump. I’d get the HEPD80.

As for the Polaris line...can you convert it to another return? Depends on the line diameter I suppose. Some people recommission them as a water feature port for DIY fountain coolers.

Leaky/blocked bubblers....what about putting a DrainKing in the line at the pad and seeing if you can force water out of it using a garden hose? Otherwise it’s digging up lines and jackhammering the deck to get at the pool connections

I could convert it to another return (I think)... as for the blocked/leaking line... I'll check on it. If I can clear it - awesome... if I can't clear it - I'm just going to leave them plugged and cap off the line at the pad.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I could convert it to another return (I think)... as for the blocked/leaking line... I'll check on it. If I can clear it - awesome... if I can't clear it - I'm just going to leave them plugged and cap off the line at the pad.

I don’t know if Alabama climate requires it but putting aerators in pool walls just seems silly to me. So even if they did work, they’d be much better as returns than aerators.

 

[MasterTinkerer]

But I live in Timbuk7 Alabama (just past Timbuk2)... so those places are just "over yonder". I hear what you are saying... will try to find a local Pool Store and see what they have to offer. I just really prefer internet shopping over heading out into the traffic!




Thanks Bombardier! If I don't find something at the pool store, is it safe to opt for the Cayman or do I need to stick to the more proven S200?

I called around... 3 authorized Maytronics dealers in driving distance. One dealer had the S200 price = $900 / S300 price = $1200. The second didn't carry the S200, but has the M200 at $900. The third doesn't carry the S200 either... they have the Edge at $1300 (with a caddy).

So, my earlier question... is the S200 worth an extra $200 over the Cayman on Amazon?

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I don’t know if Alabama climate requires it but putting aerators in pool walls just seems silly to me. So even if they did work, they’d be much better as returns than aerators.

what climatic condition would "require" an aerator?

 

[MasterTinkerer]

Plumbing at Pad
Suction

As mentioned earlier, I have two suction lines... they are both 1.5" I have purchased a Jandy Never-Lube diverter valve (model 4715) that I will use to take these two into the suction side of the pump. I plan to upsize to 2" (was 1.5") from the valve to the pump and use a union at the pump. The only difficulty on this one is that the lines are too close together to get into the diverter valve with using 90s only. For this I also plan to use a pair of 45s on each to basically create a Y then a verticle... then into a sweep elbow and into the valve.​

Q1 - how long of a straight run of 2" do I need from the exit of the valve to the entrance of the pump?
Q2 - anything else that I should do here?
​

Pump to filter

This also should be easy... 2" line (used to be 1.5" flexible) straight up then sweep elbow over to the sand filter valve. BTW - I rebuilt the sand filter top selector valve as well... the spider gasket was completely gone... no wonder the screen in my Polaris was always getting clogged!​

Filter to return lines

Again here I plan to upsize from the previous 1.5" to 2" at least until I get to the first T. I will use a union at the filter exit.​

Q3 - How far away from the filter should the SWG go? Is there a preferred orientation (perfectly horizontal - small angle - anything like that)?
Q4 - My previous setup had a puck chlorinator inline... I was not planning to put it back in... or should I? If I put it back, does it go before or after the SWG?
Q5 - Should I plumb a bypass loop (with a shutoff valve) parallel to the SWG for any reason?
Q6 - I purchased a second Jandy valve that I had originally planned to use at the T between the Polaris and the jets... since you guys talked me into all of the new stuff, I don't really see a great need for it. Recommendations?​

 

[MasterTinkerer]

there are pictures on the original post that will help clarify what I posted if it is confusing at all...

 

[Jimrahbe]

B,

Q1 is supposed be about 5 x pipe size or 10" but it is not all that important..
Q2... no

Q3.. you want about 10" or 12" of straight pipe before the SWCG... again does not seem to make a great difference in real life.. the cell should be last in line before any return valves..
Q4.. since you have a SWG for vacations, I see no reason to put it back in...
Q5.. I can't see why...
Q6.. Send it back to Amazon for refund...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[MasterTinkerer]

I called around... 3 authorized Maytronics dealers in driving distance. One dealer had the S200 price = $900 / S300 price = $1200. The second didn't carry the S200, but has the M200 at $900. The third doesn't carry the S200 either... they have the Edge at $1300 (with a caddy).

So, my earlier question... is the S200 worth an extra $200 over the Cayman on Amazon?

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what climatic condition would "require" an aerator?

two questions still open...

 

[JoyfulNoise]

two questions still open...

Did you ask the dealers if they will service robots that they don’t sell? Many dealers will only service a robot if you bought it from them. Do they do loaners when your robot is in for repair? Having an authorized service tech within driving distance seems worth it to me as shipping a robot out, properly packaged and insured, is no cheap deal.

As for aerators....I have no idea why anyone would install them. They serve no purpose other than to unnecessarily jack up ones pH. If they leak, then I say blow the lines out and permanently cap them off. Someday when you decide to demolition the pool deck and install a new liner, you can look for leaks.

 

[MasterTinkerer]

Sorry Matt... guess my desire to be a cheapskate is greater than my desire for convenience.

I just pulled the trigger on a refurb from poolpartz.com

Dolphin Premium - Refurbished

and submitted a return request to getpoolparts.com so I can ship back all of the plumbing things that I'm returning (jandy valve, several pieces of 1.5" plumbing, etc)

 

[JoyfulNoise]

No caddy....they’re $60-$100 on eBay. I love my caddy. Makes moving and storing the bot a cinch.

Can’t tell from the website but it says it comes with the fine pleated filter. If it doesn’t have the course filter screen with it when it arrives, you’re going to want one of those if you get large debris in your pool like leaves or pine needles. The course screen captures the big stuff and keeps it from plugging up the fine pleated filter. You can get a course screen online from Marina’s for like $50 or so.