Newly renovated pool owner, a few chemistry question.

ShinDiors

Well-known member
Jul 16, 2021
227
Northern VA
Pool Size
20500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We bought the old house with a safety covered pool 3 years ago, finally bit the bullet to have a company fully renovated it. Drained and refilled with fresh water, resurfaced the plaster, now the water circulation is on with new Jantry pump and Polaris pump. DE filter has not been checked, but seems to at least working a bit (visibly more clear water over 2 days). I've been reading the basics and waiting for my appropriate test kit to arrive. Currently have a crappy test strips and a water testing report from local pool store yesterday. A few questions I have regarding the routine water balance and chlorination after I understand the relationship between CYA/FC, Calcium Hardness etc
1. As a plaster surface inground pool, I was advised by the pool company to use granular chlorine, then I learned it contains calcium which is needed more in plaster surface. But I should not rely on using this power chlorine for routine chlorination correct? How fast would Calcium level decrease with regular use?
2. I saw quite a bit suggestion here and there on weekly shocking, but Dichor type of shock (Clorox shock for example) would add CYA over the time, and the Calcium Shock would increase Calcium hardness over the time, with both Calcium and CYA seem to be difficult to decrease (except drain and refill). What should be used for shock then? I do see some "chlorine free" shocks using oxidization of other chemicals to sanitize (intheswim has one). Using liquid chlorine is recommended in the SLAM guide, but I'm having quite a bit difficulty finding chlorine in any form here at Northern Virginia, especially tablets and liquid chlorine. I'm worried that the amount of liquid chlorine I would have to get.
3. I understand that having a solar cover would be very helpful (my pool is north facing, pretty exposed in sun light), only question is it is "roman style" with two side extruded steps (one in deep water, one in shallow water, same side). Can I just buy a rectangular shape or oval shape (not sure if the curvature of a roman style is actually the "oval shape"though) cover the most of the pool? I saw some mentioning about algae growth in fully covered pool (solar cover, not safety cover).

My plan is to watch my CYA level once capable, now it should be pretty low (pool store tested to be 5ppm, although my test strip said otherwise), I think I can use those tabs alternating with granular chlorine (pool store tested calcium hardness 150ppm, recommended level is 200-400) . Once the CYS reaches 40-50, I should switch to liquid chlorine (maybe alternating with granular chlorine, depending on the Calcium level/PH?).

I'm grateful for all the knowledge that's been shared here.
 
Hey Shin and Welcome !!
Currently have a crappy test strips and a water testing report from local pool store yesterday
You either rely on the industry designed to separate you from your hard earned monies, or you rely on yourself with a reliable test kit.

the TF-100 from tftestkits.com is the best bang for the buck. The K-2006C (the C gets you more) is also good.
But I should not rely on using this power chlorine for routine chlorination correct? How fast would Calcium level decrease with regular use
Correct. Calcium, CYA and salt do not come out with any frequency unless you drain. The rain will eventually help, but that is a sloooooow process one inch at a time.
2. I saw quite a bit suggestion here and there on weekly shocking, What should be used for shock then? I
Shocking is only needed by industry standards where they ignore the pool for up to a week and ‘shock’ it to spike the FC, in the *hopes* that it lasts all week until the next adjustment. A pool needs to be fed daily and chlorine is a consumable in the sunlight (UV) and will be trouble free if you do.
side). Can I just buy a rectangular shape or oval shape (not sure if the curvature of a roman style is actually the "oval shape"though) cover the most of the pool?
Buy a larger rectangle and cut it to shape. Or 2 smaller squares. Many people cut their covers into sections to make them easier to manage.

There are no algae concerns with solar covers. In fact, the sun will burn off less of your chlorine while covered each day.
Once the CYS reaches 40-50, I should switch to liquid chlorine
Reach 40 however you’d like, but *only* as you test it with a reliable source. The pool store is a guess and strips values of 0, 20-50, 100 are even worse than that.

Normally 30 would be fine but this is the peak season so you’ll benefit from a little extra protection for the next month. By the time the fall hits you’ll be back down to 30.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ShinDiors
*Also….. pool stores are the Jiffy Lube of the pool industry. You would never in a million years walk into a Jiffy Lube looking confused, asking them to check your cars fluids. Never. In. A. Million. Years. They’d fleece you blind. But everybody thinks the pool store are the ‘pros’. They are not. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: ShinDiors
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.