Newly re-balanced water, where to go from here

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
36,370
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
In Poolmath you select Boric acid and it will tell you how much to add to achieve the level you wish.
 
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geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
In Poolmath you select Boric acid and it will tell you how much to add to achieve the level you wish.

Thanks, I forgot that was there, and I did so. I also just ordered a 55 lbs drum of granular boric acid from dudadeisel as you suggested. About double than I need to get the ideal range, but honestly, although they say the borate stays in your water, mine diminishes during the season, with all the rain we get, and all the back washing as a result of that. Mine went from 60ppm to 20ppm this past summer, so this allows me to boost it now and then. What kind of Ph spike can I expect with this?
 
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geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
Wow. So yesterday I added 6 cups of LC to bring my FC up from 2.4 to 5.3. I also added 10 lbs of calcium chloride to bring my CH up from 290 to 360. Today, I am testing 0 FC. The sample remains clear after two dippers of R-870. Test strips also confirm minimal if any chlorine. Did that addition of calcium chloride eat up my chlorine?

That follows the day before when I added 6 cups LC and 5 lbs calcium chloride, which had brought my FC from 2 to 2.4, and CH from 250 to 290.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
36,370
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Adding calcium does not effect FC.

How did you measure a FC of 5.3??
 

geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
I didn't measure it at 5.3, I calculated that based on the amount of chlorine I added. It called for 2 quarts, 1 cup, 5 oz., so I rounded it to 2 quarts, 2 cups, or total of 6 cups. Very strange.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
36,370
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Do an OCLT tonight if you like to see if there is an issue.
 

geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
At any rate, the addition should have put me in the 5.3 to 5.5 range, btu today I am measuring nothing, unless there is something wrong with my powder.
 

JJ_Tex

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Bronze Supporter
Jul 17, 2019
2,297
Prosper, TX (DFW)
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would add more chlorine ASAP, then test 30 mins later. That will at least tell you if you have a problem with your chlorine or your testing.

The OCLT that Marty mentioned would be the next step to see if you have algae in the water that is gobbling up your chlorine.
 

geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
I think I should SLAM. So starting at around zero FC, Pool Math is saying add 2 gallons FC 12.5%. Does that sound good? I did have some issues with some mustard algae accumulating before I added all this chemistry so maybe I should slam and start from there?
 

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geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
ok, will do. Given my current chlorine level, should I add some now to do the test tonight? if so, should I add to get to within the recommended range of 5-7ppm?
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
36,370
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
ok, will do. Given my current chlorine level, should I add some now to do the test tonight? if so, should I add to get to within the recommended range of 5-7ppm?
Yes.
 

geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
Great. Added 14 cups 12.5% LC, which should take me to 7 ppm, the high end of the target range. Did a quick dipper test and sample turned pink. I did notice a little mustard algae forming in the corners. I will do the OCLT tonight.
 
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geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
OK, I definitely have something going on. Here are my results from yesterday and this morning with the OCLT:

3/5/21 3:30 PM: FC 0.0 CC 0
3/5/21 4:00 PM added 14 cups (112 oz) LC 12.5% (according to Pool Math, should have brought chlorine level to 7 ppm). Dropped two dippers R-0870 into 25 ml sample to confirm pink, but didn't measure FC)
3/5/21 7:00 PM test showed FC 1.8ml CC.2ml (after sunset)
3/6/21 5:00 AM water sample taken/went back to bed (sample taken before sunrise)
3/6/21 8:30 AM added two dippers R-0870, sample stayed clear, no pink FC 0ml CC 0ml (taken from the 5:00 AM sample)
3/6/21 9:00 fresh sample directly from pool confirms zero chlorine

Pool looks clear, no visible mustard algae on walls. So I suspect I have a ton of mustard algae in the water, but the chlorine I added yesterday was consumed by the algae, enough to keep it from blooming on the walls? I could add a fixed amount of bleach, test it after one hour to determine if I get the approximate amount of increase in FC that Pool Math says I should get, to determine the efficiacy of the bleach, in case I have outated bleach that has lost its potency. This bleach was bought from the pool store recently but not sure of how long its been sitting around in the supply chain.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
36,370
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Add 5 ppm worth of liquid chlorine. Circulate pool for 30 minutes. Test FC. Sounds to me the liquid chlorine is weak.
 

geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
Add 5 ppm worth of liquid chlorine. Circulate pool for 30 minutes. Test FC. Sounds to me the liquid chlorine is weak.
Does this give any clue about mfg. date?
 

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geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
93
New Orleans
Add 5 ppm worth of liquid chlorine. Circulate pool for 30 minutes. Test FC. Sounds to me the liquid chlorine is weak.
Added 80 oz LC, which according to pool math should have brought me to 5ppm. Tested half hour later, test shows 2.4ppm. So either weak chlorine, or I did not test my CYA correctly, or a combination of both? I feel pretty confident about my CYA test showing 40, and it concurred with the pool store analysis of 39ppm. So seems weak bleach for starters, by 50%. Do you think I also think I need to SLAM, because of the recurring mustard algae?

If so, how does this sound as a plan of attack: double the recommended amount of bleach using my bleach, until it is used up, and find a new source for bleach and continue SLAM? I read the article about getting rid of mustard algae as well so I am prepared to do a lot of scrubbing.
 

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