clambert1273
Gold Supporter
- Jun 13, 2013
- 1,493
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Newbie, TF-100 kit compared to pool store readings
- Thread starter Bethany1983
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,514
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
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It is very difficult to give direct guidance when we do not know the pool surface, equipment, water source, test kit, etc.
Do follow what Christina mentions above, chlorine is king. Always keep your FC at or above the target level for your CYA.
It is very difficult to give direct guidance when we do not know the pool surface, equipment, water source, test kit, etc.
Do follow what Christina mentions above, chlorine is king. Always keep your FC at or above the target level for your CYA.
I've never added liquid chlorine, I thought the salt turned into chlorine. I was told if I ever need to 'shock' i turn the "super chlorinate" on, on the SWG meter box
. I've only used it once for a few hours and that was last week.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,514
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The SWCG will MAINTAIN your FC under normal maintenance circumstances. You are not there yet. You need to use liquid chlorine to get FC up quickly. Then, if your water is clear and you lose no FC overnight, you can get to maintenance levels in a few days.
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Please fill out your signature ------
DeanP66
0
The SWG will convert salt into chlorine when it is working properly. The salt is strictly to keep your SWG happy so it makes the chlorine in the cell. Because your FC is quite low relative to your CYA level of 50 (rounded up from 45), you need some instant FC. That's why we're telling you to add liquid chlorine to get it up fast. A SWG is not great at raising FC in a hurry. It is more slow and steady. It is meant to maintain a certain level by adjusting its output % as well as the amount of time you run your pool pump. So you want to get your FC up to the right level first with liquid chlorine before letting the SWG take over. Your liquid chlorine addition will register on your test within 30 minutes of adding it.
SWGs are really good at holding a chlorine level, but really bad at getting you to the right level. So...add some liquid chlorine (bleach) until you test to about 7.0 with your test kit and then check it every day for a week. If you stay at 7.0, you're good. If you get down below 6.0, turn your SWG up, or run your pump/filter/SWG a little longer. If your chlorine is over 7.0, do the opposite, run less.
After you get that part figured out it's a breeze from then on.
After you get that part figured out it's a breeze from then on.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,514
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thank you for the signature --
What model is "SWG turbo cell", please add that to your signature.
What model is "SWG turbo cell", please add that to your signature.
Don't worry, it will all fall into place. Simply listen to the moderators, study up on the TFP method, read pool school and watch as everything comes back to center..
Hey there Bethany, welcome to TFP from another Georgian 
Your pool looks very nice! Let's work together and keep it that way. My first bit of advice is that if you can return those unopened chemicals, do. We don't buy expensive versions of pool chemicals- we use the exact same chemical but found at either Publix or Lowes.
Instead of buying "Lo N Slo" which is Dry Acid, please go to Lowes and buy some Muriatic Acid when you need to lower your pH. Your picture looks like the pH is about 7.8 right now and that's what my pool likes to sit at with the SWG. I rarely need to lower it more than once or twice a summer. Dry acid though is harmful to your salt cell so we don't want to use it.
The Bioguard 300 is calcium- Vinyl pools without heaters do NOT need calcium! That's just pool store gouging you.
Holler with any questions, ok?
Maddie
Your pool looks very nice! Let's work together and keep it that way. My first bit of advice is that if you can return those unopened chemicals, do. We don't buy expensive versions of pool chemicals- we use the exact same chemical but found at either Publix or Lowes.
Instead of buying "Lo N Slo" which is Dry Acid, please go to Lowes and buy some Muriatic Acid when you need to lower your pH. Your picture looks like the pH is about 7.8 right now and that's what my pool likes to sit at with the SWG. I rarely need to lower it more than once or twice a summer. Dry acid though is harmful to your salt cell so we don't want to use it.
The Bioguard 300 is calcium- Vinyl pools without heaters do NOT need calcium! That's just pool store gouging you.
Holler with any questions, ok?
Maddie
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com
Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals
These pool chemicals should not be added to your pool. Save your money and frustration and avoid these chemicals!
www.troublefreepool.com
Where can I go to figure out what the recommended levels are for the stuff you guys are determining I should add? Also plain bleach I know, but how much, where can I find this info... And this is fine to pour straight into my salt water pool
- May 3, 2014
- 58,514
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Recommended Levels
PoolMath
Certainly. It is chlorine. The SWCG makes, Chlorine.
Pour any liquid in a pencil size stream at a pool return with the pump running. Brush the area to mix well.
I don't know how my pool builder is going to feel about me not testing my water with them. I was going to ask them. They have a warranty but for some reason I thought it would be void if I didn't use them and I would understand that because how would they know that I know what I'm doing and if I'm adding or using the wrong/right chemicals or not, thus affecting how their pool they built is functioning? The paper they gave me on how to backwash the pool etc, specifically says DO NOT USE MURIATIC ACID IN OR AROUND THE POOL. lolHey there Bethany, welcome to TFP from another Georgian
Your pool looks very nice! Let's work together and keep it that way. My first bit of advice is that if you can return those unopened chemicals, do. We don't buy expensive versions of pool chemicals- we use the exact same chemical but found at either Publix or Lowes.
Instead of buying "Lo N Slo" which is Dry Acid, please go to Lowes and buy some Muriatic Acid when you need to lower your pH. Your picture looks like the pH is about 7.8 right now and that's what my pool likes to sit at with the SWG. I rarely need to lower it more than once or twice a summer. Dry acid though is harmful to your salt cell so we don't want to use it.
The Bioguard 300 is calcium- Vinyl pools without heaters do NOT need calcium! That's just pool store gouging you.
Holler with any questions, ok?
Maddie
If you are on a computer looking at this page- at the bottom is the old version of PoolMath. This is actually my preferred version when helping people as I can easily see what tweaks I suggest will make happen to the water.
I've filled this out on the "Now" side using your reported levels...
I've filled this out on the "Now" side using your reported levels...
Your pool builder is trying to intimidate you into using his services (cha$ching$). Use TFP but monthly go get a test and ignore what they tell you. When they want to sell you something just tell them you have some at home.
There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using Muriatic Acid but it *is* an acid which scares folks and if you drop it on the deck it can mark the cement.
When EVER you add chemicals to the pool do it in front of a return that is moving water fast. Then pour the chemical into the water flow in a skinny pour and don't let it get on the liner. I always brush right off afterwards to assure myself none is sitting on the floor of the pool and its getting mixed in.
Your Pool builder isn't keeping up on the science of the salt cells because dry acid can damage the very precious metals on the cell that makes the *magic* happen- Voila! Chlorine!!
We have tens of thousands of pool owners using MA with *no* problem. Just make sure you stand upwinid cause its got a wicked smell. Most folks learn to just lay the jug into the water and pour out an estimation of what amount they want. It works.
Maddie
There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using Muriatic Acid but it *is* an acid which scares folks and if you drop it on the deck it can mark the cement.
When EVER you add chemicals to the pool do it in front of a return that is moving water fast. Then pour the chemical into the water flow in a skinny pour and don't let it get on the liner. I always brush right off afterwards to assure myself none is sitting on the floor of the pool and its getting mixed in.
Your Pool builder isn't keeping up on the science of the salt cells because dry acid can damage the very precious metals on the cell that makes the *magic* happen- Voila! Chlorine!!
We have tens of thousands of pool owners using MA with *no* problem. Just make sure you stand upwinid cause its got a wicked smell. Most folks learn to just lay the jug into the water and pour out an estimation of what amount they want. It works.Maddie
OK, So I understand I need to add BLEACH to the pool because my FC is too low, and I understand that how much of it to add will depend on what my CYA level is, and my CYA is 50. So, according to the chart here, I cannot tell what my recommended minimum FC should be since 50 CYA isn't even on the chart. Do I just assume my Target FC should be 6?
Aside from that, it looks like my Alkalinity is way too high (140). At what point do I deal with alkalinity, or is the FC supposed to simultaneously fix that problem too, or we move to that step after correcting the FC? Also, the test kit had me testing for Combined Chloramines and I don't see the recommended levels for CC anywhere on the link that was given me.
Aside from that, it looks like my Alkalinity is way too high (140). At what point do I deal with alkalinity, or is the FC supposed to simultaneously fix that problem too, or we move to that step after correcting the FC? Also, the test kit had me testing for Combined Chloramines and I don't see the recommended levels for CC anywhere on the link that was given me.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,514
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Use the Liquid Chlorine chart. Once you are using your SWCG to maintain your FC, use the Salt Water Generator chart.
Alkalinity is not a huge issue. Keep your pH in the 7's and the TA will lower over time.
CC of 0.5 ppm or less is great. At 1 ppm and above it indicates you may have issues with your water chemistry.
The FC/CYA chart tells you where you want to be in a range-
FC/CYA Levels
I'd start with the Non-SWG to begin with .... Ideally 6-8ppm of FC, because every day the sun will burn off a bit (2-4ppm) and you don't want it to burn you down to Zero. Never go below 4ppm to be safe. Then let your SWG maintain the FC level.
When the SWG is up and running for FC you'll want to add a bit more CYA to go up to 60 or 70 (with you being where you are, I'd say 70) and then the ideal range for your FC will be 5ppm or 6ppm to be safe.
FC/CYA Levels
I'd start with the Non-SWG to begin with .... Ideally 6-8ppm of FC, because every day the sun will burn off a bit (2-4ppm) and you don't want it to burn you down to Zero. Never go below 4ppm to be safe. Then let your SWG maintain the FC level.
When the SWG is up and running for FC you'll want to add a bit more CYA to go up to 60 or 70 (with you being where you are, I'd say 70) and then the ideal range for your FC will be 5ppm or 6ppm to be safe.
