Newb OB with BYOP in Buckeye AZ - pebble and tile touch up suggestions

Here are pictures of my comparator and my guess of pH. Please correct me if you see something different
I'm 100% with you.

*disclaimer. Mrs Dude will avow that I see one color, such as pink, and not the 5 bazillion shades that she does such as magenta, fuschia, flamingo, orchid, etc.
 
Today’s update.

Water temp 64
pH 8.4
TA 130
CSI + 0.87
Using a pH of 8.0 gets CSI of +0.47 so pool math says I need 4 cups 5 oz muriatic acid to go from 8.4 to 8.0.

Retested pH an hour later and got what looks like maybe 7.9 (what do you think) which had CSI of +0.39. It really doesn’t matter much since a pH of 7.9 up to 8.1 gets me in the target CSI range. Seems good to me.
IMG_7611.jpeg

Those spider cracks are normal shrinkage and nothing to worry about.
Follow-up question on spider cracks. I saw a number of other cracks. Most were about the same and a few were a little bigger, but not much. Do they stay that way?
 
Follow-up question on spider cracks. I saw a number of other cracks. Most were about the same and a few were a little bigger, but not much. Do they stay that way?
The cracks should not grow.
 
I take a thumb from each hand and block off above and below what I want to compare. I find yes or no is way easier than best of 3.

If we do it here, I see a skootch higher than 7.8, but I'm also terrible with colors so take it with a grain if salt. Lol.

Screenshot_20240308_150419_Chrome.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: setsailsoon
So it’s not just me! :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

I know it’s outside of regular target ranges, so it’s a little difficult to pin down, but I did the same thing as @Newdude and found it a little above 7.8. To me it has more of a purple tinge than orange/peach. My wife tells me I don’t see certain colors correctly, so maybe I should ask her.

Good thing my life doesn’t depend on it!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Today’s update is almost a mirror copy of yesterday. Test results were really close to yesterday and I added the same amount of acid. I have been expecting TA to decrease with the acid additions.

Temp 66
pH 8.4
TA 130
CSI + 0.89
Using a pH of 8.0 gets CSI of +0.47 so pool math says I need 4 cups 5 oz muriatic acid to go from 8.4 to 8.0. Made the addition, waited 45 min, tested again and got what is very close to yesterday, but it seemed slightly more purplish, so I called it 8.0

Initial test (8.4 ?)
IMG_7625.jpeg

After (8.0? maybe 7.9, either way CSI is in target range (y))
IMG_7628.jpeg
 
Rinse, repeat. Testing and additions were basically the same. TA did drop a little to 120. Acid addition was slightly lower.

Starting to feel a little better about interpreting the comparator for pH.

first test ~8.4
IMG_7637.jpeg

second test ~8.0 after adding 34 oz acid
IMG_7638.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Rinse, repeat. Testing and additions were basically the same.

Starting to feel a little better about interpreting the comparator for pH
It's the conundrum of life. You can't have experience without doing, and you can't do without experience. :ROFLMAO:
 
Intellivalve question

Question first, can the valve be configured to run in either direction?

It seems to default to run from the highest number valve position (in my case 12) when the circuit is off to the low number valve position (closest to zero) when the circuit is turned on. My application is to turn the scuppers on and the all the returns off so I can run the pump at its lowest rpm’s to get the desired effect.

My valve configuration shown in the picture is the inlet on the right, the scuppers on the left, the return header at the bottom. I would like the intellivalve to run from position 12 when the circuit is off to 24 when on.

IMG_7656.jpeg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Question first, can the valve be configured to run in either direction?

It seems to default to run from the highest number valve position (in my case 12) when the circuit is off to the low number valve position (closest to zero) when the circuit is turned on. My application is to turn the scuppers on and the all the returns off so I can run the pump at its lowest rpm’s to get the desired effect.

My valve configuration shown in the picture is the inlet on the right, the scuppers on the left, the return header at the bottom. I would like the intellivalve to run from position 12 when the circuit is off to 24 when on.

1710260225257.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: Schwimmbad
Thanks a bunch @ajw22. Worked exactly as described.

How embarrassing to find the answer is simple and in the manual! I go through some effort myself before posting questions. I searched using google and some AI search tools but obviously my search terms were not right. I need to remember to go back to the manuals. Oh well. Thanks again!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Well it’s been 8 days since filling and things seem to be ok with the bicarb startup (as far as I can tell, which doesn’t say much). pH rises daily to about 8.3/8.4 and I add about +/- 1 qt of 14% muriatic acid to get it down to 7.9/8.0. CSI after adding goes down to ~ +0.4 and rises up to ~ +0.7/0.8 before knocking it back down the next day. TA started around 130 and has been hanging around 120 the last few days. I thought TA is reduced with acid but I’m not sure how much reduction I should see. Are my results so far to be expected?

Pump has been running nonstop at 1700 rpms and plan to keep it that way for another week. I was brushing twice a day for the first week and now I’m brushing once a day. I’ve collected maybe a cup of pebbles and plaster bits with the silt net when I saw I was collecting some at the bottom from brushing. Not sure if that’s good, bad, or inconsequential. Will be interested to see how much I get once the robot goes in.
IMG_7666.jpeg
I’ve learned from my contractors that the startup guy (me) installs the water temp sensor. Not a big deal and I’m capable, just figured that was a plumber’s job. Before I tackle that, the Pentair intellicenter manual says to install between the pump and filter. Any
suggestions for the best place to install it? I was thinking on the vertical section on the north side of the pipe to keep the sun off it.
IMG_7667.jpegIMG_7668.jpeg

One other interesting and somewhat annoying tid bit I learned. I won’t be able to have the water level above the centerline of the tile if I want to stick with a travertine top for the auto leveler. It was installed by the plumbers incorrectly (which has the top about 1 inch above the bond beam). The coping guys cut off that one inch so they could fashion a travertine lid. I shut the auto fill off for now to let the level drop a bit and will turn it back on later to confirm the highest water level I can achieve. I think it has been working fine but it seems to only trickle, I guess that is by design and is desirable. Anyway I measured the center of the fill pipe and it’s 12.75“ from the top of the bond beam. I should have caught that prior to shotcrete! I even read and underlined the two options shown (concrete or travertine deck/coping). Any suggestions to give me a little more water height? I was thinking of seeing if I can get a big hole cut in the travertine cover and use the ugly auto fill cover.

IMG_7672.jpegIMG_7670.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7670.jpeg
    IMG_7670.jpeg
    680.3 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Is it possible to cut a recess into the bottom of the travertine? It is 1.19” thick (micrometer). Any idea how much thickness would have to be left so it doesn’t fail/crack?

I think the max level right now is between 2.25 to 2.5” from the bottom of the tile. Still need to wait for my level to drop and turn the auto leveler back on to confirm the current max. The minimum I would like to be able to go up to is 3”. I would have liked to go up to 4” from bottom of tile but that doesn’t seem possible. This will take a few days to confirm my limits.

The float assembly looks like it needs 3.25” of headroom from the max water level to the top of the assembly. Is there some other type of float assembly that doesn’t need that much space?
 
Last edited:
The auto leveler is the Quikwater leveler by A&A Manufacturing which was bought by Pentair. I called Pentair and there is no other float assembly even available. Additionally, the manual says the thread for the float assembly is a 0.75" custom thread. The Pentair rep said you can't find that thread anywhere commercially other than Pentair and he didn't even have the details of the thread if I wanted to have an adapter custom made. I guess I'm going to have to deal with creating a recess in the tile or cutting an opening and using the ugly cap.
 
Is it possible to cut a recess into the bottom of the travertine? It is 1.19” thick (micrometer). Any idea how much thickness would have to be left so it doesn’t fail/crack?

I think the max level right now is between 2.25 to 2.5” from the bottom of the tile. Still need to wait for my level to drop and turn the auto leveler back on to confirm the current max. The minimum I would like to be able to go up to is 3”. I would have liked to go up to 4” from bottom of tile but that doesn’t seem possible. This will take a few days to confirm my limits.

The float assembly looks like it needs 3.25” of headroom from the max water level to the top of the assembly. Is there some other type of float assembly that doesn’t need that much space?
You could probably cut it to 3/4” thick without issue. 1/2” might be pushing it but it depends on how bad you want the water level higher.
 
With the float assembly at its highest point that still allows my travertine lid to fit (without cutting a recess) my high water level is about 2.5” above the bottom of the tile. With the assembly up where I need to cut a 0.75” recess in the travertine lid the high level is about 3.2”. If I have a circle hole cut in the travertine and use the ugly leveler lid I can get about 3.75”.

I’ve got three pieces of 12x12” travertine so I think I’ll just have all three options cut (0.75” recess, a full 7” circle/hole, and a 0.5” recess in case the 0.75” breaks). Can you tell I can’t make a decision? Well at least on this issue.

I did make a decision on my robot. I went with the EVO 614iQ and bought from Marina Pool & Spa. They had the best price I found at $849 and no shipping or tax (for Az). Their invoice calls it “Aqua Products Evo 614iQ Robotic Pool Cleaner by Polaris.” Did Polaris buy aqua products? Can’t wait to drop “Snoopy” in the pool. Am I able to use it before 30 days since I am doing the bicarb startup?

One other question, I have read different things about how soon dogs can go in the pool (ranging from 1 week to 2 weeks to 30 days). Our golden retriever has been very interested in the pool and seems like she wants to break it in. Especially given our large Baja ledge. Because she has never swam I wouldn’t let her off the Baja until I can go in so I can show her various ways out. I would’nt want her trying to get out from the main pool and scratching the edge of the Baja ledge.

On a side note, I haven’t done anything for chlorine or cya other than floating the trichlor pucks. Nothing registers in the FC or CYA tests yet after 12 days. I imagine I need to get some chlorine in before she goes in.

I’ve been testing daily. Other than today everything seemed fairly consistent. With todays’s acid addition it seems like I dropped the pH to 7.7 (?) which gave me a CSI of +0.14. I’m guessing one day below +0.4 isn’t anything to worry about. Especially since pH has been consistently climbing quickly. Strange that today the pool math overshot. I’ve been entering everything in pool math so you can check out my logs. Curious if anyone has any comments/observations from my log.

IMG_7723.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: setsailsoon

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support