Newb OB with BYOP in Buckeye AZ - Short vacation pH and FC question

Lids-I would do as you are saying that way ONE of them will be just right.

Dog- I would wait until your start up is done. You don't want to bother their eyes as they might get some water in their eyes.

Ph-your plaster is "coming around" so it is going to react differently each day so error on the safe side. Going high or low a couple times will not hurt anything.
 
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Thanks @kimkats. This might be a dumb question but which side is the safe side when I’m targeting a CSI range?

Before I add the acid my CSI is above the range, after the add it’s below the range. Because it climbs so much over a day that seems fine.

On a related note, I just learned the trichlor pucks I have been using for the first 30 days are Clorox xtrablu which I just found out contain some copper. Should I get some different ones or are these ok for the limited time I’ll be using them?
 
Before I add the acid my CSI is above the range, after the add it’s below the range
Then you're balanced with an average in the middle, and most of your time spent in range. You're not spending months and months high *or* low so you're fine.

Is there a reason you're using half strength acid ? You should be used to handling it by now and you're buying twice as much.
 
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Stop using the pucks with copper immediately. No amount of copper is good in the water,
Thanks. I’ve started searching for the “copper free trichlor” pucks but not having much luck. One that came up as copper free, GLB Triple Tab Chlorinating Tablets, says it has “copper sulfate to kill algae”. What are some that are known to not have copper in them.

Then you're balanced with an average in the middle, and most of your time spent in range. You're not spending months and months high *or* low so you're fine.

Is there a reason you're using half strength acid ? You should be used to handling it by now and you're buying twice as much.

Thanks @Newdude

Bought 4 gallons at Lowe’s and that was all they had. Next purchase will be the 31.45% variety.
 
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I am not going to go back through all of this to figure out why you want to use Trichlor pucks.

Use liquid chlorine to chlorinate your pool.

Separately add stabilizer and acid as necessary.
 
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I pulled the floater out of the pool.

I did some more searching and didn’t find any pucks that don’t have copper. Unless someone corrects me, I'll be changing over to liquid chlorine until I reach the 30 day mark and can fire up the SWG.

I'm hoping someone can help me as I make the change. Just looking for a little confirmation/guidance to make the switch to liquid chlorine.

From the NPC startup card it mentions a target CYA of 30-50ppm. I entered 30ppm in pool math and it gave me 3lbs 14oz so I'm just going to add the full 4lb bag. The method I read about is adding to a sock or ladys hose and suspending in front of a return. Is that right? Once dissolved I'll wait 24 hours test to see if I get a CYA of 30. Once there, the TFP FC calculator shows min 2 with a target of 4 to 6. Am I on the right track? I realize with minimal CYA in the pool (my CYA test yesterday didn't even register) that any chlorine in the pool will quickly dissipate, but should I be adding any while I transition?

I'll hold my other question related to the copper in the pool as I added sequestrant during and right after the pool was filled.
 

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From the NPC startup card it mentions a target CYA of 30-50ppm. I entered 30ppm in pool math and it gave me 3lbs 14oz so I'm just going to add the full 4lb bag
That's great if you still have 0 CYA from the fill. How many pucks were used ? Each 8oz tab raised CYA 2.2.
The method I read about is adding to a sock or ladys hose and suspending in front of a return. Is that right?
Yup. Carrot on a stick like. Some time later, or even tomorrow it will be mush and squeeze right out. Careful to squeeze it through the sock and not out the top.

Once dissolved I'll wait 24 hours test to see if I get a CYA of 30. Once there, the TFP FC calculator shows min 2 with a target of 4 to 6. Am I on the right track? I
200w (4).gif

Minimum FC + recent daily loss + 2 insurance FC = stupid clear water. It's a moving target throughout the season. More more more more, midpoint of the season, less less less less. Think of a bell curve for loss.


any chlorine in the pool will quickly dissipate, but should I be adding any while I transition?
If possible, keep the FC free and clear from min. If you're at work and it burns off in 3 hours, it is what it is.
I'll hold my other question related to the copper in the pool
You only added a little. You stopped because you never want to add any, not because 3 pucks would hurt you.
 
Once the CYA is suspended in front of a return, dose chlorine like the CYA is already dissolved.
If adding CYA to get to 30, add chlorine to get to 6. Never let the FC get below 2 with CYA of 30 - better the FC be a little high than to flirt with it falling below minimum.
 
That's great if you still have 0 CYA from the fill. How many pucks were used ? Each 8oz tab raised CYA 2.2.
I put 3 pucks in to start and just added 3 more yesterday. I pulled the pucks out this morning and I took the weight of each this afternoon and compared to a new puck. In short, I used about 2.1 pucks, so based on your comment I was probably at something like 4.5ppm.

Yup. Carrot on a stick like. Some time later, or even tomorrow it will be mush and squeeze right out. Careful to squeeze it through the sock and not out the top.
I started to squeeze some out about a 1.5 hours later. I wasn't sure what to expect, but it turned to mush and squeezing it really created some CYA clouds! Check out the video.
Based on what you described this seems exactly what I should expect. Does it matter how much comes out as long as its suspended in the water and not granules? Can I just keep squeezing? Got pretty cloudy so I did a little, paused for a few minutes, swirled the silt net around in the water, put the squeeze on, and took that same approach a few times. I read somewhere that CYA can discolor the plaster. While I think that was related more towards casting it in the pool and it sitting on the bottom, I didn't want to just squeeze like a mad man.

Minimum FC + recent daily loss + 2 insurance FC = stupid clear water. It's a moving target throughout the season. More more more more, midpoint of the season, less less less less. Think of a bell curve for loss.
Simple easy way to think about it. Thanks for that.

You only added a little. You stopped because you never want to add any, not because 3 pucks would hurt you.
I actually started down the rabbit hole to try to calculate copper ppm based on puck usage. Based on the MSDS sheet for the tabs, at most the "other ingredients" (which aren't identified) is just under 5%. With using about 2 tabs I guessed at most there could be 0.87oz of copper sulfate. If my calculation is correct (mg/L) that gives me a max of 0.43 ppm. I'm guessing actual amount of copper sulfate is much less.

I read the copper wiki:
It made me wonder if I should do anything else but since my calculated max copper is under 0.5 ppm the wiki says:
"In general, less than 0.5 ppm copper will likely not have much effect on pool water. 0.3 ppm is even safer. Over 0.5 ppm you may have some staining or water discoloration, depending on pH.[1]"

This got me thinking about sequestrant and how often that should be added. Since I added some during and when finished filling I wasn't going to dig into this for a little while.

Once the CYA is suspended in front of a return, dose chlorine like the CYA is already dissolved.
If adding CYA to get to 30, add chlorine to get to 6. Never let the FC get below 2 with CYA of 30 - better the FC be a little high than to flirt with it falling below minimum.
Done. I'm still getting accustomed to reading the comparator but I know I'm above 2. Hard for me to tell, but maybe even above 5. While the picture doesn't seem to show the differences well between 2,3, and 5, what do the experienced eyes say?
IMG_7741.jpeg

On another note, it looks like my pH might be 7.4 if I am reading it correct (any other opinions?). To me it seems more peachish than pinkish. At 7.4 it flipped my CSI to negative at -0.14. I took this sample about 2 hours after starting to add the CYA. I read somewhere that CYA will drop pH. I went back into pool math to check affect of adding chemicals and adding 4lbs of CYA could lower pH by 0.7 and TA by 12.0. I should have understood this before adding the muriatic acid earlier, they are both acid which will reduce pH.
simon cowell facepalm GIF


Oh well lesson learned, hope I don't go stupid and forget it. It will be interesting to test tomorrow and see where I'm at for FC, pH, and TA.
 
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so based on your comment I was probably at something like 4.5ppm.
Ok. That won't affect anything in the grand scheme of things.
Does it matter how much comes out as long as its suspended in the water and not granules
Nope. The cloud is fine.
I didn't want to just squeeze like a mad man.
Squeeze away then brush well
This got me thinking about sequestrant and how often that should be added. Since I added some during and when finished filling I wasn't going to dig into this for a little while.
Your fill water had what it had. You added a trace more. It probably doesn't matter.
While the picture doesn't seem to show the differences well between 2,3, and 5, what do the experienced eyes say?
It's the same as 8.2+ it might be 8.4, or 12. Or 3 / 5. It's probably closer to the scale but you add from 6.8 or 8.2 back to a nearby 7, mix and retest. Repeat if necessary.
I should have understood this before adding the muriatic acid earlier, they are both acid which will reduce pH.
Ain't no better teacher than a foul up. It hits harder. Maybe the facepalm helps smush it into the brain. I dunno but it works GREAT. (y)
 
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Done. I'm still getting accustomed to reading the comparator but I know I'm above 2. Hard for me to tell, but maybe even above 5. While the picture doesn't seem to show the differences well between 2,3, and 5, what do the experienced eyes say?
I assumed you're referencing FC on the comparator. Why aren’t you drop testing for FC? Then you have very little question as to your actual FC level.
 
I assumed you're referencing FC on the comparator. Why aren’t you drop testing for FC? Then you have very little question as to your actual FC level.
That’s a good question. I’ll do that test today. Haven’t done it yet so good time to learn.
 
Yeah - use the R-0870 and R-0871 to get an accurate FC.
Do the CC test as well.
The chlorine test with the R-0006 (which should turn the sample a yellowish color) basically shows you have some chlorine in the sample - to determine how much, do the R-0870 and R-0871 test.

 
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Ok, ran through the tests and here is where I’m at:
FC 2.5
CC 0
TA 120
PH 7.6
CH 300 (last tested 5 days ago)
CYA 30 (ran the test for practice, don’t consider valid until tomorrow)
CSI +0.06
temp 65

My thoughts are to add some chlorine to target FC of 6 and run the waterfall to help raise pH. Does anyone have experience with how much pH rise (at least a rough range) that I might see from running the waterfall. I’m not sure what to expect for rise per hour or whatever.

Is there anything else recommended?

By the way, snoopy should arrive in the next day or two. I’ve read a few things about how long to wait before putting a robot in the pool. The variance in recommendations seem to be driven by the amount of plaster dust seen while brushing (14 days if no dust up to 30 days if seeing dust). I don’t see any dust myself. While I‘d like to let snoopy take a swim I think I’ll wait until day 30 that way I can count brushing the pool as one of my rotator cuff PT workouts!
 

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