Newb OB with BYOP in Buckeye AZ - Completion and wrap up

I know pH tends to rise faster when it is at low ranges, so I plan to do a dry run to see how it behaves.
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We can armchair quarterback all day long. But there's one way to find out. :salut:.


Usually, as with any swing (like a literal swing), if you push harder it comes back with a vengeance. And might whap you upside the face in the process. :ROFLMAO:

Either way, PH is a long term concern and it won't change the price of beer in the short term. Trust me, I wouldn't let you change the price of beer. We'd have words. Loud ones. 😁
 
Update on cleaning tile
I got the light duty pads that @Dirk suggested and gave them a go. It worked to remove some of the build up, but wouldn't get it all. So I had a chisel scraper and decided to use that on the tile. It removed the build up with a little effort. Only challenge is some of the build up is on the curved edge of the tile as it meets the grout line, so it doesn't clean it up as much as I'd like. I used the pads after using the scraper, and it did a pretty good job. Since I've got epoxy grout, I'm going to get the heavier duty pads and see if that will remove all the build up without having to use the scraper.
Thanks for sharing. I once tried a wire brush attachment for my drill. It worked. And I may resort to that, but my "tile" isn't really tile and doesn't have a glaze, so it didn't seem to be impacted by the wire brushing. But that's still pretty extreme, and I'm worried it'll leave micro grooves that will just attract more calcium in the future, and be that much harder to remove. It'll be a last resort.

Glad the pads worked out. Keep us posted about the heavier duty pads.
 
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Question on managing pH and chlorine while on short 3-day vacation.
pH - The pH has been rising 0.2 per day pretty regularly for the last few weeks so I was thinking of getting the pH down to 7.2 before I leave figuring it won't get past 8.0 before I'm back. Is there anything to be concerned about with this approach? Note I have been keeping the pH in a tight range of 7.8 to 8.0. Doing so is a bit of a chore as the pool needs 12oz of acid every day as the pH climbs 0.2 per day. My TA has been 80 over the last three weeks. I know pH tends to rise faster when it is at low ranges, so I plan to do a dry run to see how it behaves.

Chlorine - I've been keeping FC up around 9. I know I'll have to bump up the SWG a few times as we head into the summer. The SWG still has the low salt level red LED on (it's reading has been bouncing between 2650 and 2700 and my last test 2 weeks ago was 2800) but it seems to be generating fine, so I was thinking of leaving it alone. Would it be advisable to add some salt to ensure the SWG doesn't mistakenly read too low and shut off while I'm gone.

Update on cleaning tile
I got the light duty pads that @Dirk suggested and gave them a go. It worked to remove some of the build up, but wouldn't get it all. So I had a chisel scraper and decided to use that on the tile. It removed the build up with a little effort. Only challenge is some of the build up is on the curved edge of the tile as it meets the grout line, so it doesn't clean it up as much as I'd like. I used the pads after using the scraper, and it did a pretty good job. Since I've got epoxy grout, I'm going to get the heavier duty pads and see if that will remove all the build up without having to use the scraper.


Hey @mbdesa what sealant do you use? By the way, my fill water comes through the water softener and my calcium last tested at 350.
When the surface is clear of Calcium, try using Cal Block. Should help prevent the calcium from sticking to the tile. I also have another sealer we are trying currently, but its only been a few months and so the results aren't in yet. Will update once we see how it handles the summer heat and evaporation.
 
Usually, as with any swing (like a literal swing), if you push harder it comes back with a vengeance. And might whap you upside the face in the process.
Swing it did!

For my dry run I dropped pH down to 7.2. It climbed to 7.6 after one day, to 7.9 after two days, and 8.0 after three days. When I was managing pH between 7.8 and 8.0 it would take about 12oz of acid a day and climb 0.2. It took 48oz of acid to get it down to 7.2 and climbed 0.4, 0.3, and 0.1. Interesting 🤔, took an extra 12oz of acid to drop all at once vs
12oz a day over the same three days.

Glad the pads worked out. Keep us posted about the heavier duty pads.
I found this pad at home and gave it a go. They are made to be used with chemicals to strip paint/varnish from wood. Figured it wouldn’t cause any issues with tile or grout.
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It worked much better, but still wouldn’t get the toughest of the buildup. Still had to use the chisel scraper, but not nearly as much. I feel with epoxy grout I can get something a little more aggressive. The hunt continues.

When the surface is clear of Calcium, try using Cal Block. Should help prevent the calcium from sticking to the tile. I also have another sealer we are trying currently, but it’s only been a few months and so the results aren't in yet. Will update once we see how it handles the summer heat and evaporation.
Thanks for the suggestion @mbdesa! I’m going to see how things go with mechanical cleaning for a few months before applying a sealer. Good to know what product to put on the list for possible solutions.

The buildup is on the tile and grout along and parallel to the grout lines going from a little above the waterline up towards the coping. Some of the buildup is flakey, actually a little like salt. Just a bit of water on it and it dissolves. Other is more dense and takes a little scrubbing and chisel scrapper to remove. I don’t have any buildup on the tile along/parallel to the waterline. Is this the sort of situation cal block would help? Does it work on the grout as well as the tile?
 
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This post is intended as an update on a few items above since completion, some maintenance and usage notes, my final costs, and some lessons learned.

The calcium/salt buildup along the grout lines of the waterline tile is not nearly as much and as frequent as it was initially. I'm not sure exactly why, but guessing it's since I have been able to keep pH down in the 7.4 to 7.6 range with about 1 cup of acid daily and accordingly the CSI has been negative most of the time. The acid demand has dropped quite a bit and my TA is now at 60 (started off at 130). To scrub off whatever buildup I get (about once a month) I have been using the 3M Scotch-Brite Advanced Extreme Scrub and it does a nice job. It get's most of it off (I'd say it gets 80-90%), and I have to use a scraper to get the rest.

When the surface is clear of Calcium, try using Cal Block. Should help prevent the calcium from sticking to the tile. I also have another sealer we are trying currently, but its only been a few months and so the results aren't in yet. Will update once we see how it handles the summer heat and evaporation.
@mbdesa I'm curious if you have any thoughts yet on the other sealer you mentioned compared to Cal Block.

Overall I have gotten the hang of maintaining the water chemistry. It's really pretty easy, especially with the SWG. I still use the Apera pH meter and calibrate it every 2 to 3 weeks. I personally like not having to interpret the comparator block. I've gotten much better at the comparator block, just like the no interpretation of the meter.

Maintaining the pool has been pretty easy. Besides the occasional cleaning of the buildup along the grout lines, I have found I need to brush the baja ledge and benches about 2 to 3 times a week. When I brush I see a fine dust get stirred up. I run Snoopy (EVO 614iQ) a few times a week and overall it does a good job. I bought the fine canister filter but it still doesn't get the very fine Arizona dust. For this reason I have been contemplating purchasing a suction cleaner to let it get the dust and have the main filter do it's job. While I plan on doing some searches in the pool cleaners forum I'm wondering if any Az peeps on here recommend any particular cleaner for this very fine dust? Looking for something that would get my baja ledge which has about 9-10" of water depth?

I have been using the pool as intended (basically daily). Cooling off after golf or pickleball and occasionally jumping in for no reason at all. I have been enjoying the fire bowls and waterfall scuppers. Both are used a few times a month. In my mind, both were absolutely worth the extra cost. The fire bowls really add a great ambiance, something much different than other homes. A strong adult beverage with the fire bowls and scuppers going provides a true resort feel. The water temperature has peaked a few times at 94 degrees during the hottest days/nights. It seems to regularly peak at 92. The morning water temperature has been around 84 to 86 degrees. I felt it would be a bit more refreshing if I could cool it down so before I plopped down a $2-3K more to add equipment (Glacier evaporative cooler) I searched this forum and found some references to do-dads that spray water like a fountain and let the evaporation cool the water. I decided on a $20 pool fountain from Amazon. So far the temp hasn't gotten above 90 degrees so I'd say it drops the temp around 2-4 degrees, which so far seems to do a good enough job to avoid putting in a cooler. The only drawback is it does create quite a bit of noise. Side note, I haven't had much, if any, additional pH rise.
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By the way, our golden retriever "Biscuit" has learned to swim and actually looks for us to give her permission to go in. I just have to keep an eye on her undercoat since it likes to mat up quite a bit.

On to the cost. All in the pool cost just under $77k (without the perimeter fence). If I exclude the fire bowls and associated gas lines it is $69K. Breakdown is below. Note I paid cash for every trade that offered a discount. Feel free to message me if you have questions about the numbers below (or anything else for that matter).
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For those that may wonder what it would have cost if I used a pool builder, I really don't know and can only guess based on neighbors it would have been well north of $100K. Especially given the "extras" below that I built into my pool:
  1. Fire bowls
  2. Separate plumbing lines with it's own diverter valve for every return, 2 skimmers, and vacuum line.
  3. Went with expansive soils 45psf engineering design instead of 30psf (increased rebar and shotcrete).
  4. Amount/length of benches.
  5. Built for future gas or electric heater and for a Glacier evaporative cooler with it's own dedicated return.
  6. Waterproofing behind waterline tile and feature wall.
  7. Epoxy tile adhesive for the waterline tile and epoxy grout.
Some lessons learned.
  1. While you can do a build your own pool without being home as work is occurring, it is extremely helpful to keep an eye on things. While you can catch some things by looking after work is completed, it is much better to catch issues as things are occurring. Some things I caught as they were occurring was excavation forgot a skimmer, waterproofing was not following mfgr instructions, tile installer was not using spacers, plus lots of other things.
  2. If doing build your own, don't underestimate the amount of time it takes to get bids and work through selecting and working with contractors. It really does take a lot of time and good communication and organizational skills.
  3. Spend time really thinking about how you'll use the pool and what you want. Don't rush into it. Even think about how the sun and shade travels across the pool and the times you anticipate regularly using it. With all the sun we get in AZ I might have made a few tweaks to how I laid out benches to get more shade from the feature wall and fire bowl columns. The more you can try out other pools and talk to people about what they like and dont' like the better. Let the design sit for a while and don't be afraid to make adjustments/tweak until you are finally satisfied. It's your pool so don't accept what anyone (pool builder or individual contractor) pushes/suggests. Listen to their comments, if unsure get feedback from the TFP community, and make the decision on what you want given the cost and all the info you can gather.
  4. In addition to pool depth/profile, really pay attention to design and drawings for the water depths of features like baja ledges and benches. Ask questions to make sure you understand. For example I wanted one corner bench to be deep enough so water would cover my shoulders when sitting upright. Two other corners I wanted deep enough so I could rest my arms on the travertine decking without them being elevated above my shoulder level. As mentioned earlier in this thread I wanted my baja ledge with about 12 inches of water and the actual is about 9 to 10 inches. The benches are about 3 inches higher than I wanted them. After the fact I discovered the elevation the designer measured them (and reflected in the drawings) was the top of the bond beam. I checked depth in many places after excavation and after rebar in the main area but didn't check benches.
  5. Auto water leveler elevation is very important. My plumbers didn't install it for the thinner travertine coping/pavers as opposed to concrete pavers. The result is I don't get the full benefit of being able to adjust the water depth higher than the centerline of the tile.
  6. I should have put an expansion joint between the coping and rest of the travertine decking. While I haven't had any issues yet (still way early) I have talked to quite a few people who feel it's not needed in this area and it's true you don't see them much out here (at least I haven't seen any yet). It hasn't bothered me quite enough for me to install one after the fact yet, it's just been in the back of my mind.
  7. I love having separate diverter valves for every plumbing line. For example, to run the water fountain I mention above I can control pump speed and turn off returns to get the height I want. I have also played around with turning different returns on/off to help with the flow of the water in the pool and effectiveness of the skimmers.
  8. Lean on the TFP community and don't be afraid to ask "stupid" questions. The experts on here have been helpful beyond measure and very patient.
Reposting my timelapse build video and a few final pictures.

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