New User - want to say Bye to Leslie's and do this myself.

ValerieAz

Member
Apr 22, 2020
7
Maricopa, AZ
Hello, thank you for any assistance/advice. My IG pool was built in 2017. Last pre-summer swim season I struggled with high Cyanuric Acid levels and landed up draining pool and refilling. During this past winter I noted the chlorine levels staying high without adding tabs to deck chlorinator. Back to Leslie's and adding Chlorine Neutralizer and then NoPhos, then back for testing, then adding Alkalinity Up, back for testing, told today to add 14 oz Muriatic Acid . Each time I go in they tell me drain it because my TDS is 3700 (spoke to their district manager about some stuff and she said not to drain this season since I just drained it last season). Here are my current test results today:
FC 2.49
TC 2.64
pH 7.9
TA 116
CH 228
Cyanuric Acid 125
Phosphates 68
TDS 3700 (has been between 3100-3800 from 4/5/20 - 4/22/20).

I found this website today due to frustration over local pool stores seemingly giving different advice depending what day of the week it was and really feel with ordering a proper test kit as this site recommends, I can do this on my own and with the help of this site. I have read different things on TDS, some say its an issue some say don't worry about it. I just spent $300 on chemicals and am trying not to drain pool after all this because water is not cheap here. Are my numbers that bad that I need to rethink this for upcoming summer swim season. Thank you.
 
Welcome to the forum!
You need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF100. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols. Once you get the kit, run a full suite of tests and post them up here. In the interim I suggest adding 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine to the pool each day. Discontinue the use of all solid chlorine products.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
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Also, return the $300 worth of chemicals. You do not need them. You can get what you need at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, etc.
 
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Welcome to the club of those who rode the Pool $tore roller coaster. The TF-100 kit is the best value. Many of us on the site use the Speedstir which makes testing more accurate and more consistent (see my sig). Both will get you into free shipping territory. As Marty said, take the magic potions back to the pool store. They may only give you store credit. Save that for liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and unicorn floaties.

Best wishes!
 
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Yes hello! You will get a lot of help here. Once you get your test kit we will now have a common foundation to work from. Return as much stuff to the store as you can... but I think most stores are not taking returns in light of the virus abatement policies.
If the pool store results you posted are accurate it looks like you have high CYA. Read up on the pool school articles ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and you'll see what I mean. Once you get your test kit post your results and we will proceed from there.
 
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Val,
By coming here you're off to a good start. TF-100 will be a small investment with huge gains. Get the speedstir as that will make testing much easier. Before long you will figure it out and all will make sense to you.
 
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Thank you all. I will order kit today. I cannot return product, as I put it in the pool at their suggestion over the last few weeks, thus the frustration each time I go there. Can you explain this a little further for me: "In the interim I suggest adding 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine to the pool each day. Discontinue the use of all solid chlorine products." I will try to figure out the 3 ppm amount, if you can help, I'd appreciate it. Also, am I to use only liquid chlorine from now on or just for now? Thanks.
 
Use the PoolMath app. You would put in the size of your pool and it can tell you how much chlorine would equate to 3ppm for your pool. There is the old online version of the app in the links at the bottom of the forum webpage as well. I'm giving you the tools to figure it out.. instead of just giving you the answer.. its the teacher in me..;)
 
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3 ppm FC is about a quart of 10% liquid chlorine in to your pool volume. I am suggesting that as that is how much you are losing to the sun each day.

You are correct about the future. Your primary chlorination method must be liquid chlorine added daily. Or you install a SWCG or liquid chlorine dosing pump and tank. Continuous use of solid chlorine products is why you are having the issue this year and last year.
 

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Good luck with your new mission! These folks here are great and I guarantee you can do it on your own just fine. We built a pool this winter and I started reading the forums here as it was being built. By the time it was done, I was an expert. I told the pb to skip the pool school because I had it under control. That's how confident I was, and lo and behold, it's been a breeze so far. Something will creep up at some point, but these folks will have the answer. On another note, I always find it curious that water costs so much in some places. Here, I pay $3.54 per 1000 gallons. Ie, I can fill my 17,000-gallon pool for $60. Our city is on a river and water is never a problem here. Sorry, I had to rub it in a little.
 
The TF100 will likely last two seasons unless you need to SLAM. Keep your water TFP clean and no issues.
 
If you think you may have a SLAM in your future the XL version is a definite recommendation for the extra reagents. They don't really go bad, so I would be tempted to recommend you get the XL version out of the gate. Its nice to have the extra reagents when you are figuring things out. I know I felt like I was burning through the reagents the first year I started testing before I settled into a routine.
 
Take a look at the recommended testing intervals in the article below. It's a good guide for testing frequency. Things like CYA and CH don't change much unless you're making adjustments, so no need to test unnecessarily.

 
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Hello, I received my TF-100 kit last night and used this morning with below results, I did put in the PoolMath, but would like a little help if possible:
FC =5
TC = 8
Calcium = 450
TA = 220
CYA = below 100 line, 250+ (see pic)
I also did the daily test with chlorine and pH and they both look a little high, (see pic). I stopped using tablets and am using liquid chlorine. I know CYA is high as that was my issue last summer as well. Thank you in advance. CyA.jpgdaily.jpg Pool is clear.
 
The CYA test only is valid up to 100 PPM, so you may want to do a diluted test and double the result to get a true sense of where your CYA is. Use half pool water and half tap water for the sample and then do everything else like normal. Just remember to double the result at the end.
 

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