New Tub Owner Struggling With Chemistry W/ Saltron Mini

Primetime76

New member
Sep 14, 2020
3
Claremont, NH
Greetings! If this has been asked, please link me to the discussion (I did a quick scan of this forum but didn't see it). I was recently given a 2008 Hot Springs Pulse tub and purchased a Saltron Mini drop in device to make it a salt tub as opposed to using all the chemicals. The electrical was set up on Saturday morning and I am having issues getting the free chlorine, pH, hardness, Total Alkalinity..pretty much every category is registering low on my test strips. It also seems to be struggling to maintain FC after I pull the Mini out of the tub.

Should I shock the tub with it being a first time startup? I have read a lot, and some say resources have said yes, others say no. That is a common theme that I am finding with this new found hobby, info online is all over the map.

Do any of you seasoned veterans have any helpful hints (I just read a thread that mentioned bleach into the tub after using??).

Sorry for the vague nature of some of this, but I just want to be sure to get it right so my family can safely and comfortably enjoy the tub. Thanks.
 
Welcome to TFP :)

Your first and biggest problem you have found and identified right of the bat, Great JOB :goodjob: Guess/test strips are almost impossible to do anything with... They just do not work for what you need...

1. Grab a test kit Test Kits Compared If you only have a hot tub the smaller Taylow K-2006 may be the way to go but for a little bit more you could have the TF 100 :)
2. Grab a Taylor salt test kit, if you get the TF 100 just add it TF-100 Test Kit ™ if not get this one K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
3. once the test kit get delivered do a complete test and post back here... :)

You can put 2 tablespoons of 10% pool chlorine in before and after until you get your kit but i bet there is enough from the saltron mini to be good for a couple days this week.. :)
 
Welcome to TFP :)

Your first and biggest problem you have found and identified right of the bat, Great JOB :goodjob: Guess/test strips are almost impossible to do anything with... They just do not work for what you need...

1. Grab a test kit Test Kits Compared If you only have a hot tub the smaller Taylow K-2006 may be the way to go but for a little bit more you could have the TF 100 :)
2. Grab a Taylor salt test kit, if you get the TF 100 just add it TF-100 Test Kit ™ if not get this one K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
3. once the test kit get delivered do a complete test and post back here... :)

You can put 2 tablespoons of 10% pool chlorine in before and after until you get your kit but i bet there is enough from the saltron mini to be good for a couple days this week.. :)

Thanks for the tips. Glad to know that I could put in some chlorine and enjoy the tub now while I wait for the kit. Just to clarify, I should get BOTH the normal kit that does pH, etc AND the salt test kit?
 
Welcome! TFP is the best place for pool and spa care, I'm so glad I found this site!

I was recently given a 2008 Hot Springs Pulse tub and purchased a Saltron Mini drop in device to make it a salt tub as opposed to using all the chemicals.
Just to be clear, a Saltron Mini (which I have) does not replace "using all the chemicals". It is a Saltwater Chlorine Generator (SWCG). What this means is it uses electricity to take chloride ions in the water (added by salt) and turn them into hypochlorous acid, the primary sanitizer, which after it oxidizes waste ends up as chloride ions to begin the cycle again. So the ONLY difference a SWCG makes is it reduces or possibly eliminates the need to add chlorine manually, but doesn't change anything else. Pools with SWCGs usually can eliminate all manual chlorine addition, whereas spas generally lean towards using SWCG to maintain chlorine during periods of disuse but due to small amounts of water and high bather load often still require manual additions of chlorine after each use. For example, if you have one person soak for 15 minutes twice a week, the SWCG will handle all chlorine usage. But if you're like us and have 2-6 people soak for 2-8 hours at a go, manual chlorine addition is mandatory, often in the middle of the a session and for sure after we get out (and maybe the next day too), after which the SWCG will maintain the chlorine levels between uses (which for us is often a week or so, depending on the weather and season).

This is a good starting point for learning how to take care of a chlorine sanitized hot tub: How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?

The really good news though, is that at TFP you will be using the least amount of chemicals. When we first were looking at hot tubs, I found articles saying how you needed all sorts of chemicals. Like ten different ones! All spa specific and very expensive. "Conveniently" these places also sold or linked to a place that sold these chemicals. Stuff like pH minus, pH plus, alkalinity increaser, etc. Well, turns out if you understand the water chemistry a bit, you need very little, and most of the expensive spa chemicals are just common things sold with 200-400% markup. Here's what you NEED:
  • Chlorine without CYA for manual additions (sodium hypochlorite). This can be purchased as unsented, no-additive household bleach (don't get Clorox brand, it all has additives now, but store brand like "Great Value" is usually good), or you can buy it as "liquid chlorinator" or "liquid shock" for pools/spas, just check the label has only sodium hypochlorite as the only active ingredient.
  • Acid, to lower pH (and also TA), as nearly all water sources will have enough TA to cause pH rise with aeration. This can be muriatic acid, sold at any hardware/home improvement store, or dry acid (sodium bisulfate) usually sold as "pH minus" in pool/spa stores.
  • You'll also need something to measure out things. I recommend a small plastic measuring cup with at least 1/2 oz divisions, plus a "gram scale" for dry chemicals. A set of plastic teaspoons/tablespoons can also be handy for small amounts of liquid chemicals.
  • Poolmath, either the web version or the phone version. I recommend the phone version and paid upgrade for $10/year.
  • A good test kit, which you've already ordered. I recommend the Speedstir as well, it makes the testing a lot easier.
And well, that's it. That's all you really need. That said:
  • Some CYA (cyunaric acid) is highly recommended. Can be added via dichlor, which is chlorine and CYA, or via straight CYA. If you already have dichlor, use that, otherwise I'd lean towards straight CYA.
  • If you accidentally add too much acid and lower the TA too much so the pH is too low, you'll need something to raise the TA. Chances are really good you already have it, it's called baking soda (sodium bicarbonate).
  • Some people swear by borates, which can be added via Borax, but I've personally tried both ways and didn't notice any differences so I don't use them anymore. YMMV.
There's a bit to learn, but it's not hard, and we are here to help, so don't hesitate with any questions!
 
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Like they said above get a proper test kit & while you’re @ it get some ahhsome as even new tubs need to be purged of biofilms.
Then follow the guide using dichlor until u reach 30 ppm calculated cya then switch to swg & bleach instead of just bleach. I have a saltron mini in a 200 gal tub & it runs 4- 6 hrs/day (depending on season) & I only need to add bleach to shock level after real long soaks or heavy bather loads. Every few weeks i add dichlor to shock level after a use to replenish cya due to splashout.
You have to have some chlorine to start out with as swg’s are meant to maintain fc not bring it up from zero.
I just used up a little 1lb/$10 container of dichlor from Walmart that i have been using for almost 2 years 😁
 
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