New to this, what would you change

[Diy_guy419]

Hi everyone,

just registered for this awesome forum. I am in northern Ohio.

So my pool builder has scheduled me for an April installation for my Fiberglass pool. I have already made a couple of payments, and they are a reliable builder in our area.
Here is what I am getting for $65,400:

Goliath 16x37 Thursday Pools in Graphite finish. (Goliath Fiberglass Pool Design - Thursday Pools)
Pool Building Permit
Excavation and Removal of Soil Unless Otherwise Noted
16" Colored and Stamped Concrete Coping
Start-up and Orientation of Pool Operation
Water to Fill Pool
First Year Closing of Pool
Heater: Pentair MasterTemp 250K BTU
Pump: Pentair IntelliFlo VSF 2 Variable Speed Pump
Filter: Pentair Clean & Clear Plus Filter
Sanitization: Pentair IntelliChlor Salt System IC40
Pentair IntelliCenter Control Panel
Pool Lights: (2) Pentair GloBrite Changing LED for Fiberglass Pools
Winter Safety Cover: Rayner Mighty Mesh Winter Safety Cover Installed at Closing
Maintenance Equipment: Vac Head & Hose, Pole, Brush, Leaf Net, Test Kit
Pentair Pool equipment is covered by a full three (3) year manufacturer's warranty.

I also attached their design, with extra concrete that is not included in this price.

My questions are:
Is this equipment good? should I upgrade any of it?
Is the placement of the pool good? north is up in the design. The trees to the right of the pool and north of the detached garage have all been cleared.
Would you do anything differently?

I will be running my own gas line and electric to the panel which will be on the North side of the detached garage. That is where I plan on putting all the pool equipment.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Is this equipment good? should I upgrade any of it?

419,

Pentair, Hayward, and Jandy all make great equipment.. I personally have all Pentair equipment and would buy no other.

My only suggestion is to get the IntelliCenter with the internal salt cell power supply, which comes with the IntelliChlor IC40 or IC60 salt cell. Make sure the cell is at least 2 X the volume of your pool.

I'd also get the biggest CCP filter that you can afford.. The bigger the filter the less you will have to clean it and the lower the filter pressure will be. In your location you will only have to clean it at end of the season, when the pool is being closed.

I am not sure your heater is big enough, but then I am not a heater kind of guy..

Good luck with your new pool build..

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
I would suggest reconsidering the use of Globrite lights. They have a proprietary attachment and last about 3 years, at most. At $300 a piece, they are costly. Pentair Microbrites use a standard 1.5" attachment and thus you can switch to other manufacturers if you like.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Diy_guy419]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for your input,

For the internal salt cell power supply issue, what is it that they are giving me that is different from what you are suggesting (sorry, I have no idea).

For the filter, is that something that comes separately? or do you upgrade it?

Should I upgrade to the 400btu heater?

 

[Jimrahbe]

419,

You can buy the IntelliCenter with the internal salt cell power supply or you can buy a standard IntelliCenter and an external power supply.. Both will work, but the best thing is to have the integrated salt system inside the IntelliCenter.. Cost the same or less to have the integrated power supply.

The filter is a standalone unit.. I don't see a size in your list.. I'd want a CCP-420 or 520.. Not sure what size your pool builder has in mind..

I'll let some of our heater guys chime in on the heater size.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Diy_guy419]

Also, The Goliath 16x37 is 17,500 gallons.
Will the MasterTemp 250 be able to handle that? Will it be able to heat it comfortably in May and September?

 

[mknauss]

Also, The Goliath 16x37 is 17,500 gallons.
Will the MasterTemp 250 be able to handle that? Will it be able to heat it comfortably in May and September?

That heater will raise your pool temperature about 1.3 degF per hour. If it is not too costly to upgrade your gas line and/or your meter, a 400K heater would be more responsive. Regardless, you will need to cover your pool when you wish to retain heat in the water.

 

[Texas Splash]

Other thoughts:
- For the heater, consider plumbing a bypass
- Ask about type of backfill; hopefully a gravel-type and not sand
- Inquire about an overfill

Good luck, and welcome to TFP.

 

[Diy_guy419]

That heater will raise your pool temperature about 1.3 degF per hour. If it is not too costly to upgrade your gas line and/or your meter, a 400K heater would be more responsive. Regardless, you will need to cover your pool when you wish to retain heat in the water.

I see, you are referring to the solar cover correct?
the 400k heater would be about twice as fast?

 

[Diy_guy419]

Other thoughts:
- For the heater, consider plumbing a bypass
- Ask about type of backfill; hopefully a gravel-type and not sand
- Inquire about an overfill

Good luck, and welcome to TFP.

Thanks Texas,
The backfill will be #8 gravel.

Can you elaborate on the by pass?

What do you mean about the overfill? Like an overfill drain?

 

[mknauss]

I see, you are referring to the solar cover correct?
the 400k heater would be about twice as fast?

Yes on a cover when maintaining heat in the pool water.

Your pool contains ~145000 pounds of water. It takes one BTU to raise one pound of water one degree F. A pool heater is typically 80% efficient. So your 250K BTU heater will heat 200000 pounds of water by one degree F. A 400K BTU heater will heat 320000 pounds of water by one degree F.

 

[Texas Splash]

Can you elaborate on the by pass?

Basically plumbed two ways at the heater so that if there is a problem with the heater, you can still move water via a bypass and isolate the heater.

What do you mean about the overfill? Like an overfill drain?

FG shells generally don't have an overflow hole to accommodate heavy rains and such. But they can be installed by your installer if you wish. That way you don't have to go out an change valve setting to pull water out of the pool if it floods.

 

[Texas Splash]

Also with a cart filter you won't have a multiport valve which allows you to pull water directly to WASTE. But some installers will include a 3-way valve or spigot between the pump and cart filter to allow for that purpose. Something to think about.

 

[Diy_guy419]

Basically plumbed two ways at the heater so that if there is a problem with the heater, you can still move water via a bypass and isolate the heater.


FG shells generally don't have an overflow hole to accommodate heavy rains and such. But they can be installed by your installer if you wish. That way you don't have to go out an change valve setting to pull water out of the pool if it floods.

Thanks TX for the all the info, I will be asking my installer all of this.

What do you think of the layout?

 

[Diy_guy419]

Yes on a cover when maintaining heat in the pool water.

Your pool contains ~145000 pounds of water. It takes one BTU to raise one pound of water one degree F. A pool heater is typically 80% efficient. So your 250K BTU heater will heat 200000 pounds of water by one degree F. A 400K BTU heater will heat 320000 pounds of water by one degree F.

So basically, the more BTUs the quicker your pool will heat up. I will see what it costs to upgrade.

 

[Texas Splash]

What do you think of the layout?

Layout looks fine. You might take into consideration the skimmer(s) placement. Make note of your prevailing wind direction so that if you're lucky, wind will help to push surface debris towards a skimmer versus away.

 

[Diy_guy419]

Layout looks fine. You might take into consideration the skimmer(s) placement. Make note of your prevailing wind direction so that if you're lucky, wind will help to push surface debris towards a skimmer versus away.

Thank you,

Anything else you can think of?
What do you think of the price for everything I'm getting?

 

[gingrbredman]

Price is going to be very dependent on your location, and what kind of pool you are getting, but even then, can very widely in different parts of town. I would say the price seems reasonable for my region, for a FG pool, but only by getting more than a few quotes would you know what pools are going for in your area. I would say its fine, after all, you've already made a few payments, so enjoy the build and the finished product.

I know it was mentioned already, but since you asked "What would you change", I would say the lighting for sure.

Pool Lights: (2) Pentair GloBrite Changing LED for Fiberglass Pools

There are no special lights for fiberglass pools, and the GloBrites aren't that special in themselves. Two Globrites may have a bit higher output, but they are less reliable, and a lot more trouble than Pentair's newest Microbite. I would take out the two Globrites and make sure to have four Microbrites, installed equally apart on the wall so the lights point away from the house. I have three in my 30' pool, you will need 4. That's probably adding $600 in cost to your project, but well worth it in the end.

I also like the layout of the area. The only thing I'd think about is moving the fire pit area closer to the pool. I don't mind the separate area, but if it were closer, you could still be part of the action at the pool. The plus would be less concrete for that sidewalk too, add that somewhere else, you wont ever say you had too much patio space.

Looking forward to watch this build.

 

[Diy_guy419]

Awesome.
Many people are saying to get microbrites. I'll ask them now.

Are they color changing ?

 

[Texas Splash]

Anything else you can think of?
What do you think of the price for everything I'm getting?

I can't think of anything else. Cost is so subjective based on location, crews available with COVID, materials around the pool, equipment, etc. $65K s a bit up there, so make sure you get what you want for sure.