New to TFP & SWG, Trying to Start STRONG!

[Koelest]

Hello All! Thank you for taking me in! I stalked these forms for only a short time before deciding now is the time to really get to know my pool.

Back history - I became a pool owner 3 years ago and used the pucks at the advice of the local pool store. I had "no trouble" until last summer when I began to learn all of the many colors of algae. I have since seen the light so to speak and am on board with the TFP teachings. I've read up on the basics and I am ready to take my pool into my own hands.

I just replumbed from the ground up to fix a rats nest the previous owners left me (photos attached for show and tell), and I installed my first SWG (Jandy truclear) while I was at it. I also had to drain my pool and refill as the CYA was outrageous (I never got a good original reading but it was well over 300!)

For anyone who would like to assist me, I simply want to know the sequential steps I need to take to open my pool as a salt pool this year. Specifically, the sequence I need to handle the following imbalances before adding my salt. I understand the level of salt I need for my system (Jandy says 3000ppm, TFP says to add 200-400ppm to manufacturer's recommendations), . I also have an algae bloom that I'll need to SLAM, so....

Here are my CURRENT readings:
FC: 0
PH: 7.9
TA: 175
CYA: 75
CH: 450
Salt: 370

Do I handle the imbalances, then SLAM, then salt? Or another order?

 

[Philo]

What are all the capped pipes?

 

[Koelest]

What are all the capped pipes?

Thanks for the reply. What you see there is unused plumbing for the adjacent in-ground spa that I mentioned... for blower, jets, and what may have been an in floor automatic cleaner (the pool was replastered before I got it 3 years ago and there are no holes for this anymore). We have an above ground spa that we prefer and will eventually fill in the spa and make it a nice patio.

The photos were for fun to show off my handiwork. I am quite proud of my replumb and my ability to simplify what was once chaos. My real battle now is the sequence I should take on starting up my green and soon to be salt pool.

Do you have any advice regarding the sequence I should take on getting my pool enjoyable?

 

[Dave31410]

Others with more knowledge will probably reply, buy you need to add chlorine, and add enough salt for the SWCG to work.

 

[Jimrahbe]

K,

I like what you did to the equipment pad.. Simple is almost always better...

You really never want your FC to go to zero so when the SWCG is not running, like in the winter you should use liquid chlorine to get it up to 5 or 6 ppm..

Make sure you know how much salt is in your pool now and them add enough to get to the recommended range for you SWCG.

Wait 24 hours to let the salt dissolve and the fire up the SWCG...

Keep in mind that SWCGs are good at keeping the FC stable, but they are not good at going from zero to 6 ppm all at once.. That is what liquid chlorine is for..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Koelest]

Others with more knowledge will probably reply, buy you need to add chlorine, and add enough salt for the SWCG to work.

Thank you. I clarified in my original thread to communicate exactly what information I am trying to sort out. Specifically, do I get the water balanced, then handle the algae bloom, then get the salt dialed in?

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
With a CYA of 80 (round up from 75) a SLAM Process is possible, but challenging. Be sure that CYA number is correct.
Lower your pH to 7.2 prior to SLAM.

Then follow the SLAM article. If you have visible algae, plan to test the FC and add liquid chlorine back to SLAM level FC every two hours for a while. Once the chlorine consumption slows, you can reduce the times you test and dose to 3 or 4 times per day.

Leave the SWCG off for now.

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[Koelest]

Welcome to the forum!
With a CYA of 80 (round up from 75) a SLAM Process is possible, but challenging. Be sure that CYA number is correct.
Lower your pH to 7.2 prior to SLAM.

Then follow the SLAM article. If you have visible algae, plan to test the FC and add liquid chlorine back to SLAM level FC every two hours for a while. Once the chlorine consumption slows, you can reduce the times you test and dose to 3 or 4 times per day.

Leave the SWCG off for now.

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

Thank you.

I made sure to put the CYA between 70-80 per the TFP article on chemistry for a SWG. I’ve been meticulous about dialing that in.

So here’s what I’ve decided: I’ll handle the TA, get the pH back in check, then I’ll SLAM until I’m passing the night test and then I will do the salt addition to complete my conversion to a salt pool.

K,

I like what you did to the equipment pad.. Simple is almost always better...

You really never want your FC to go to zero so when the SWCG is not running, like in the winter you should use liquid chlorine to get it up to 5 or 6 ppm..

Make sure you know how much salt is in your pool now and them add enough to get to the recommended range for you SWCG.

Wait 24 hours to let the salt dissolve and the fire up the SWCG...

Keep in mind that SWCGs are good at keeping the FC stable, but they are not good at going from zero to 6 ppm all at once.. That is what liquid chlorine is for..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks, yes also we like to follow the KISS method (keep it simple, stupid!).

I have not yet added any salt, (level is currently 370ppm) and the SWG is not running currently as I haven’t a clue when to worry about the salt conversion with the TA being so out of whack.

I’ve determined my best bet is going to be to 1) balance my water 2) SLAM 3) dump in my salt and dial in the SWG.

 

[mknauss]

I would not bother with the TA right now. Much better to get your SLAM done for algae first. Then if you want to spend a day or two working the TA down you can.

Does the spa have water in it? Can you circulate through it to the pool?

 

[Koelest]

I would not bother with the TA right now. Much better to get your SLAM done for algae first. Then if you want to spend a day or two working the TA down you can.

Does the spa have water in it? Can you circulate through it to the pool?

Thank you for your reply.

Yes the inground spa is connected to the pool plumbing under one pump. There is a dedicated return line on the pool circuit which flows into the spa, and overflows into the pool, so water is always being pushed into the spa no matter what.

The recommended sequence is precisely what I wanted to know. I don't mind spending a day getting the TA in range if it means a smooth transition from a SLAM to a salt startup. I only want to get this chemistry handling done efficiently. It will be done as rapidly as I can get it handled as I am anxious to convert my pool to a salt pool. I can see the algae is getting worse every day, so perhaps that should be my first concern.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Is this not brand new water??? I read that you just drained and refilled the pool?

If you SLAM it should not take very long...

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

Great on the spa. The spillover will help you when you want to drop your TA. Remind us of that when you get there.

And yes - attach the algae now. When you add chlorine, put a portion of it in the spa.

 

[Koelest]

Pool has been clear now for a couple days, OCLT test was passed as well. The little amount of DE I added to the filter did wonders!

I did keep the FC up an extra day just to be sure I killed everything. FC is now at 17. I did a diluted pH test with distilled water per This Thread to get my 7.6 number.

Now I'm ready to handle the TA. I tested today and it is 175. I'm wondering, should I start running my aerator now and add acid when I hit closer to 8, or can I just throw the MA in there with the aerator on and kill two birds? I'm not sure if I'm thinking straight with the sequence on this step.

 

[mknauss]

Now I'm ready to handle the TA. I tested today and it is 175.

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Or, just wait until your pH reaches 8, then lower it to 7.4, repeat. Eventually, your TA will fall and your pH rise will slow.