New to testing, new to Taylor K-2006

[mguzzy]

Thanks again! Great point about rental pump vs. sand filter. The rental's $45 a day. Back wash to the street, provided the water is clear and free of debris and pollutants, de-chlorinated/ debrominated, measured on a pool test kit at “0” - anyone know how to prep the water before draining? Probably info in the above link; i will check. The face of the comparator says CYA then: 100 going on up to 30 at the top. My test got to halfway to 100 before black dot disappeared. The side has water fill lines, 1.8 being the first.

That is the scale you want to follow.. If it never made to 100 then your higher than that. You can do a diluted test if you want to find out how high it is, but with each dilution it's less accurate. so dilute by half multiple by 2 and so forth...

I'll have to look and see if I have little numbers on the side of my comparator too.. Now I'm curious, I never noticed them.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Google your city name along with "pool, discharge, drain, requirements" keywords to search for guidance on how to lawfully drain your pool. You'll be discharging to the sewer or to the street. It might be best to buy a submersible pump since you'll be doing this every few years to reduce calcium.

 

[Ericinphoenix]

Yeah, about halfway to 100

 

[mguzzy]

Since the scale if logarithmic you can't say half way to 100 is 200.. you need to do a diluted test.
Here ya go:

CYA Testing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

and the over 90 dilution test

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Ericinphoenix]

is it really required that one drains and fills at the same time?

 

[mknauss]

No. That is designed for areas of high water tables, fiberglass pools, vinyl lined pools, and when exchanging in the summer. Summer sun and heat can lead to damage of a plaster shell when left to dry out.

 

[Ericinphoenix]

Ok good, thanks. Got the sump pump. Are we talking a deep end submersion, or what? Also, what should I have on hand at the ready for when the pool is empty and for when it is newly filled?

 

[mknauss]

Pump from the deep end.

Have liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and stabilizer (CYA) on hand once the pool is full. For your size pool, at least 4 gallons of chlorine, two gallons of MA, and 8 lbs of CYA. You will need more liquid chlorine on a regular basis. Find a good source in your area. Search for a HASA dealer. They sell liquid chlorine in returnable bottles.

 

[Ericinphoenix]

Excellent, thanks. Got all that stuff and in an hour or two the pool will be empty. Is there anything i should do while it is empty? Or should i immediately start the refill?

 

[mknauss]

Refill it.

Only other thing would be to deep clean the sand filter. But that can be done anytime.
Read Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

 

[Ericinphoenix]

Wait to add anything until numbers are taken and posted here

 

[Ericinphoenix]

Okay, pool filled and test conducted.
no chlorine detected
PH: 7.4
TA: took 17 drops to turn red. Does that mean 170?
CH: 18 drops turned it purplish-blue
CYA: exceeded small comparator capacity.

I hope these numbers make sense to someone. At least so i can then be taught what to do next. Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

Great. Add 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine. In your pool a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will achieve that.
Start dissolving 40 ppm worth of CYA. Stabilizer/conditioner as it is called at Walmart, Home Depot,etc. 8 lbs will get you to 40 ppm. Use the sock method. See Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool

Starting tomorrow, follow the FC/CYA Levels based on 40 ppm CYA level.

CH sounds a bit high. Did you use a 10ml water sample?

 

[Ericinphoenix]

no, 25ml sample. More than one sock at a time? Should the pump be running as i add these things or after?

 

[mknauss]

May take a few socks. You can do them one after the other. Pump running. I put the sock in the skimmer (be sure it allows water flow) and after about an hour the granules get really mushy and you can squeeze them out pretty easy. Use a thin sock, like a knee high panty hose.

When you do CH, use a 10 ml sample. Then each drop is 25 ppm. I suspect you did not go to completion with the last test. Should turn sky blue.

 

[Ericinphoenix]

So one gallon of liquid chlorine with pump running. Then do all 8 pounds of CYA, one sock after the other til it's gone? And the muriatic acid? Should wait on that?

 

[mknauss]

Yes on the chlorine and CYA. No need for acid right now. Your pH is fine. When it gets to 8, lower it to 7.4.

 

[Ericinphoenix]

 

[Ericinphoenix]

Okay, so i ran another test just now. The water looks alright--a little cloudy but not too bad. Here are the numbers, and please forgive the lack of ppm etc as i don't understand that yet. I don't do math, i'm an English teacher!
FC is present after one drop
Took 3 drops of R-0871 for it to become colorless
After 5 drops of R-0003, it turned a very faint pink
One drop of R-0871 for clarity
PH-7.2
CH-3 drops turned it pink, 13 drops for blue
CYA-30
Do these numbers make sense? If so, how do they look? And how should i commence?

 

[Texas Splash]

Eric, Marty doesn't appear to be online at the moment, but let me help you with the math.
FC: 3 drops (if using the 10 ML water sample size) is only 1.5 FC ppm (parts per million). That's way too low. With a CYA of 30, look at the FC/CYA Levels. Your FC should never go below 2, and more ideally should be around 5 ppm. You should add some chlorine ASAP.
CC (Combined Chlorine); Only one drop - you are fine; very low CC level.
PH: 7.2 is on the low end, but okay for now. No lower though.
CH: If you used the 10 M water sample size, then 13 drops x 25 is a CH level of 325. That's very good.
CYA: 30 is the minimum. Don't let it get any lower than that.
TA: ??? Do you have that one?

So for now, I'd add some chlorine right away. Get that FC up to about 5-6 and check again this evening. I'm sure Marty will check back with you soon.