New SWG and VSP

[stupidsmee]

unfortunately it’s hard to find good “help”. I had a highly recommended company put in a Hayward VSP and SWG yesterday. They did by sending a guy that barely spoke English.

He put in about 8 40lb bags, told me to let the pump run and then in the morning to turn on the SWG.

I followed the instructions but the SWG said low salt.

I called the company because the jets etc are barely running and the salt level. I asked if I should crank it up to a higher RPM and they said no and to Use the default. The default results in no flow to the SWG.

Then they told me to add two more bags. I did and then it read is High Salt.

I cranked the the RPM for about an hour or two and now it’s generating.

First screen says 2900. Then shows “-3000”. So now I assume that doesn’t mean negative. But the current level is 3000.

All this to say WTH??

Pretty sure the set RPM 1725, is barely doing anything. This normal? Should I just set it how I feel? Crud costs too much money for bad customer service.

I’d appreciate any advice or suggestions from you kind folk.

 

[HermanTX]

I see you have the TF-100 test kit but that does not include the salt test. Did you order a salt test kit so you can test the actual value in the pool? The Taylor kit is K-1766 and is well worth the investment if you have a SWCG. You should never just add salt to a pool without testing first. The first 8 bags only raised the salt level by 1100ppm based on 35000 gal pool. Then for a total of 10 bags that was total of 1350ppm of salt. If you were using liquid chlorine befor installing the SWCG then you most likely had salt already in the pool.

Never rely on the salt sensor for the SWCG to provide an accurate salt level. It is important that its reads salt such that it turns on but as to the accuracy of the salt level is poor. Please order a proper salt test kit before adding more salt.

 

[HermanTX]

One other thing - once you add the salt, you should brush your pool to mix it up. It may take 24 hrs to properly mix. Don’t just rely on the pump to mix it.

 

[Newdude]

Get yourself a K-1766. We'll walk you through the rest.

 

[Mdragger88]

You need to test the salt independently with a k1766 - not just rely on the cell read out.
You should also let the pool circulate for 24 hours after a large salt addition before turning on the cell to be sure it’s fully dissolved & distributed or you risk a slug of concentrated salt frying your cell.

I realize you already bought this so maybe that ship has sailed, but the largest cell hayward makes (40k gal T15) is still too small for your pool. You will need to run it @100% nearly 24/7 to produce enough fc especially in peak season if you have a T15 cell. The average fc loss per day in an algae free pool is 2-5ppm.

This is why it is recommended to get a cell rated for at least 2x’s your pool volume. In your case a 60k gal rated cell would be better.
As for the vsp & flow situation- is the filter dirty?
What is the condition of the water? (Cloudy/clear)
Can you post your latest test results?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Me,

Backwash your sand filter so you have a good starting place. Then adjust the pump down until the no flow light comes on. Then slowly adjust the speed up a little at a time until the flow light turns green. Add a 100 RPM and call that the slowest speed that you ever want to run.

The pump comes with a default speed for each button, but you can set the buttons to be whatever speed you want.

I have a 3 HP pump and run at 1200 RPM, you have a smaller pump, but I would have assumed that 1725 would be plenty fast enough to turn on the SWCG.

Show us a couple of pics of your equipment pad so we can see how things are installed.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[stupidsmee]

Ok. I’ll order the new kit right now. The company told me the new parts would remove the need for kits. No surprise there.

I don’t think the filter is dirty. I backwashed and rinsed recently. But I doubt they did before installation. Pump is at 2300RPM and 311 watts right now and you can barely tell the pump is on by looking at the water. Barely any suction in the skimmer. I can see a leaf floating around in it.

Additionally. I don’t 100% know the size of the pool. I’ll update it. But estimated 20-25K gals. It’s oval shaped and bowled. I’ll update my info.

About 6 ft in the middle. 30x20x6x7.5’

The pool is a cloudy blue green.

I can get the salt under control but the pump concerns me. Previous pump was one speed. Around 3400. Maybe I’m just used to that and need to trust the lower speed benefits of the VSP?

Is it “unreasonable” to ask the installer to come quality check the install to make sure it’s performing as expected?

Their recommendation over the phone was to leave it on constantly at its lowest setting.

 

[Mdragger88]

The pool is a cloudy blue green.

This is the problem.

Algae is clogging your filter & reducing flow.
A swg will not overcome an algae problem.
You need to do the
SLAM Process for that.

 

[stupidsmee]

Ok. Will slam!

 

[Mdragger88]

Just keep the swg off for the slam

For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

 

[HermanTX]

I can get the salt under control but the pump concerns me. Previous pump was one speed. Around 3400. Maybe I’m just used to that and need to trust the lower speed benefits of the VSP?

Your plumbing is straightforward and the only resistance is the sand filter. So I think you just need to get use to the VS pump

Also, originally your pool volume was listed as 35k, and now listed as 30k but you state it may be 20-25k. So you need to look at the calculations to get the right size as that will affect how you dose your chemicals - especially if you now have to SLAM.

 

[Mdragger88]

One more thing to mention, do you have functional weir doors?
If not your skimming will be greatly reduced.

 

[stupidsmee]

Just keep the swg off for the slam

For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

Thanks. It will be my first SWG slam, which from what I read is the same. My pool company called me back and told me to use the “super chlorinate” mode, but from what I could read here, I shouldn’t do that.

Is there a time to use that mode?

 

[Mdragger88]

Thanks. It will be my first SWG slam, which from what I read is the same. My pool company called me back and told me to use the “super chlorinate” mode, but from what I could read here, I shouldn’t do that.

Is there a time to use that mode?

It only makes the swg run at 100% for 24 hrs - that’s little more than 5ppm of fc in your pool. It won’t make a dent in algae yet it will eat 24 hrs of the cell’s 7-10k hour finite life.
Leave it off.

In your pool there’s basically no point in ever using that as I suspect it won’t differ much from your regular setting that’s needed to maintain your daily fc loss since it is undersized for your pool volume.
If you need more chlorine for a party or something add liquid chlorine.

 

[stupidsmee]

Ok. Started my SLAM and guess I should be honest. My TA (and PH) are low. From what I can tell from testing is my TA is 30 and obviously ph is less than 6.8. CYA was at 35 and I already have a sock dipped in to raise it.

Pool math says 15 lbs of baking soda. Do I just grab that 15 lb bag and spread it throughout the day and then address the PH?

 

[mknauss]

Target a TA of 70 ppm with baking soda. Add it in 1/3 increments every hour brushing well in between. Test TA and pH after you get it all in and well mixed.

 

[Mdragger88]

Ok. Started my SLAM and guess I should be honest. My TA (and PH) are low. From what I can tell from testing is my TA is 30 and obviously ph is less than 6.8. CYA was at 35 and I already have a sock dipped in to raise it.

Pool math says 15 lbs of baking soda. Do I just grab that 15 lb bag and spread it throughout the day and then address the PH?

Why raise cya? the higher the cya the higher the necessary slam fc level.
FC/CYA Levels
Cya is also an acid & will further lower your ph

 

[stupidsmee]

Why raise cya? the higher the cya the higher the necessary slam fc level.
FC/CYA Levels
Cya is also an acid & will further lower your ph

I was looking to raise the CYA because I was out of the 60-80 range. After reviewing the link I see the relationship. However. After the slam I should still raise the CYA to the recommended level correct?

 

[Mdragger88]

I was looking to raise the CYA because I was out of the 60-80 range. After reviewing the link I see the relationship. However. After the slam I should still raise the CYA to the recommended level correct?

Yes- after. Pull the sock & put it in a bucket to dry out. You don’t wanna lay it on anything because as I mentioned, its an acidic product.