New swamp (hopefully pool again) owner

1e8deaa9fd08edc007c006e2fc57438f.jpg

If I alternate both of the red valves it will close off the return to the pool and open a port that empties over the driveway. Figure I need to make sure not too much chlorine ends up in the lake over that way though. Just have to be more clever than the water I guess :)

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Oh and leave out the filter

I can see where the red valves will allow you to divert the water to your driveway or the pool return, but it appears to me that all the water must come through your filter first. With that much gunk, I'm surprised that your are able to get anything through your filter. How often are you having to clean the filter?

If this were my pool I would have drained it so I could get in there and gotten the years of junk out and then refilled it. True, you'd still have to do a Slam, but with new water I think it would be much quicker and would use of much less bleach.

Jim R.
 
That's why I would run it without the filter in the filter body. Then it doesn't go through.
When I tried using the vac yesterday I did try it with the filter and I was plugging it up in less than 15 minutes. That's why I went back to mucking with my large leaf net. Just drop it too the bottom and pull it from the far side to me.
As for draining, it isn't off the table if it comes to it, but I figure I don't have any chance that it would pop on me if I try this first, not to mention I am not sure I want to know what 10,000+ gallons of water cost. I am always up for a bit of manual labor, so I figured try that first.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
You and I have about the same filter. They aren't designed for too much large debris, but then again regardless of the filter type (cartridge, sand, etc) you would be cleaning it frequently anyways during SLAM circulation. You are on the right track by continuing to scoop the heavy junk. There are some clever tools out there for such a task - not just a leaf rake/net. I can't remember their names though. If I find it here I'll let you know. No doubt the more you manually remove the better.
 
I have a small electric pressure washer waiting to come out of the box as soon as I get done mucking out the bottom of the pool. Hard part is it stirs it up as I am pulling so then it has to settle down. The fog level is falling at least. I can see almost to the bottom through a sky blue haze (slight hint of green still). What I started doing is after I swiped along the bottom I kept it below water till I made my way back to by the skimmer. Then with the fine mesh sock right there in the skimmer I could use that as a easier to clean prefilter. Time to nap for the night. I think tomorrow I will need to start getting a little CYA into the mix. Figure I will start slowly since it sounds like something you don't want to overshoot, but since everything says it is at or near 0 at the moment I figure even shooting for 10 will help some. Hopefully my test kit will be here within the week, holiday is adding some extra delay so no guarantees.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
So happy to hear you are already seeing a difference in the water color. It will not be long before you will be able to vacuum up the bottom to get all of the yucks out!

I would not mess with CYA just to be on the safe side....better to wait for your kit. With all of the water and such you having to add back in you will be flushing that "money" out.

Kim
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Well got the big vac to waste done. I lost about 3 inches of water. I can see the bottom now at least. I think I can just make out the features on the bottom (look like a couple blue dolphins on the satellite image). Think now is probably a good time to pressure wash the deck since a fair amount of that water will probably go into the pool, though in reality it was over full before now I think it is slightly under, but only by an inch or so. Should be about half way up the skimmer right?

a6e944fc0e0883fba14e95192fae2bd6.jpg


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
With what you are doing I would fill it up as far as you can so you can vacuum to waste that much longer.

I would go ahead and pressure watch the patio like you said. I would HATE for you to get the water clear THEN add all of that dirty into it!

When your pool is clear then, yes the water should be in the middle of the skimmer.

The color is changing for sure!

Kim
 
So I know it is probably several steps down the way, but most of what you see on the steps doesn't seem to be affected by my metal algae brush. Just curious what options are out there for staining like that.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
There are two test for you to try to see what kind of stain it is.

-Chlorine tablet-set it on a stain for about 15 mins and see what it does.

-Next test-vit. C tablets crushed up in a sock or rub a whole one on the stain.

Like you said it is down the road a bit. I bet we have a link for it LOL

Kim (I am going to have a t-shirt made up that says TFP------We have a link for that!)
 
Did run the numbers since I was there though :
TC 5.0
FC 5.0
CC 0.0
PH 8.0
ACID DEMAND 4
BASE DEMAND *
TA 100
CH 275
CYA 0
TDS 1300

figure that should give me an initial baseline to work from till I can get a real baseline when my kit shows up. Well back to the muck.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Don't count on those numbers being anywhere near accurate...

With the algae bloom (bloom? it's a whole garden in there...;)) you have going on, your CC should be making up at least half -- if not 100% -- of your TC, depending on how long you waited to get your sample after you added chlorine. In my SLAM experience, my FC was no more than 1.0 every time I checked it (just about every hour), and my CC was at least 5.0 (sometimes more like 10.0...).
 
The test was probably about 15 hours after I finished adding the chlorine. Figure I will probably get a new set of numbers tomorrow or Wednesday.

Quick question. There is a store just up the street that has dichlor shock for $1.99 a lb. Think it would be a good future investment to pick some up?

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
You have to be careful about those products. Dichlor tablets for example can be estimated (in ballpark fashion) to increase CYA. The bags of shock with Dichlor may be tricky to estimate, but the Poolmath Calculator may be of assistance there as well. In general though, when you need to increase FC accurately, bleach is your best bet - and probably cheaper. When you need to increase CYA, stabilizer can be purchased at any of the big name stores (Wal-mart, HD, Lowes, Amazon, etc) for a decent price with much more predictability. I would avoid the pool store products myself.
 
You have to be careful about those products. Dichlor tablets for example can be estimated (in ballpark fashion) to increase CYA. The bags of shock with Dichlor may be tricky to estimate, but the Poolmath Calculator may be of assistance there as well. In general though, when you need to increase FC accurately, bleach is your best bet - and probably cheaper. When you need to increase CYA, stabilizer can be purchased at any of the big name stores (Wal-mart, HD, Lowes, Amazon, etc) for a decent price with much more predictability. I would avoid the pool store products myself.
I had picked up 4 bags which I figure I can use over the next few days about 8 ounces at a time, figure that will get me up to 15-20 (depending on pool depth, which I will try to get a better handle on today) on my CYA while taking the load off the chlorine, and then will move to the more predictable stabilizer to dial it in after my test kit arrives. I know I will need to work on bringing up my pH some, but that was very low to begin with and was only artificially high in the numbers from earlier due to the chlorine I dumped in. That was the big reason I wanted fresh numbers to work from today since I have been able to (according to the strips anyway) keep my TC and FC levels closer to the normal range. Kinda glad I am doing this in the cooler season, I can imagine that doing this in summer would have been a much more interesting proposition. I know I am going through some of the steps faster than you would like, but I promise I am making my changes small ones only designed to shoot for the outside edge of getting to good. When I used to work at a company that did point to point microwave communication links, dialing it in was, point it in the general direction, find a signal, get a lock on the signal, then make fine adjustments. I am only working at the get a signal stage until I have the equipment to move on to the fine adjustments. Lets face it, this thing was way outa whack when I started and I know some of these additions (CYA especially) can take a day or 7 to stabilize before I can make the next move, especially with 65 degree water.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.