New Still learning this method glad to find y’all

[TxPoolGrl]

So I’m fairly new here, being lied to by Leslie’s led me here. I’ve switched to liquid chlorine bleach. Everything was going well, I got my cy acid down some and no algae...(I’m still working on test kit I’m nervous about how complicated it will be) I have a small Taylor now.
With Leslie’s I had an algae problem, one guy told me to treat the cy acid problem first by diluting...48 hours, that worked but the algae got bad..then he had me do 3 sets of 12 hours shocking with 4 packs of shock...which of course brought my cy acid up...so I then had to keep chlorine way up to kill anything ...so basically can’t swim

so finally got the cy acid down(still working on it) and kept the liquid bleach up and good, but now I see the slightest powder when I brush and it’s faint green

I’m soooooooo sad...everything was going so well ...I’ve got shock packets and I’m tempted to just use 4 of those (even though I normally use 2).... I don’t know the TFP method of shock...I see slam, but I don’t have a saltwater filter. Mine is normal Pentair...

anyone got a post link or some advice...?

 

[AK-]

Welcome to TFP.

The reason TFP recommends only Liquid Chlorine is because the only thing it will add to your water is Chlorine. Sure, it will eventually break down to salt (NaCl), but all chlorine will go that way. Liquid Chlorine is used for EVERYTHING that required chlorine.

The most common granular shock is Cal-Hypo and to use you need to know where your CH stands, because it will add Calcium to you water (you can use PoolMath to calculate how much). So you need a test kit.
The other common granular shock is Dichlor which will add CYA....

The test kit is quite simple to use once you get a handle on it. You can use the TF-100 kit quick reference guide testing instructions @mguzzy created. It helps a lot.

SLAM Process is not too complicated and will ensure algae is DEAD. However you will need to follow it, have a good test kit and it will required quite some LC. Based on the picture you posted your pool doesn't seem to bad.

Until you get your test kit add about 1 1/2 gal of 7.5% Liquid Chlorine (plain, unscented, non-splashless, non-cloromax, bleach). That will get you to about 5 ppm of FC and prevent any further growth.

Regarding the electronic pool tester. The only reliable way to test your water is with a high quality test kit. A electronic tester will require frequent calibration and you will still need a regular test kit to know when it off.

 

[JJ_Tex]

I’m soooooooo sad...everything was going so well ...I’ve got shock packets and I’m tempted to just use 4 of those (even though I normally use 2).... I don’t know the TFP method of shock...I see slam, but I don’t have a saltwater filter. Mine is normal Pentair...

anyone got a post link or some advice...?

Welcome, here is what I would do:

• Take a deep breath, you have this
• This site is all about getting accurate data, for you that would include 2 things: 1) Get a good test kit (we can help you buy and learn the testing) 2) tell us more about your pool (how many gallons, type of filter, etc.)
• Assuming you have algae, you need to follow the SLAM advice. In general, SLAM is bringing up your chlorine to "shock level" and maintaining that level until all of the algae is dead and filtered out, usually 3+ days of work here.

If you want our help, tell us more about your pool and look into the good test kits.

A couple of other things, there is no such thing as a saltwater filter. Pentair makes all 3 types of filters (DE, Sand, and Cartridge). I also would not add the shock packets as those will add CYA and seems like you have already been battling it. The general rule of thumb for people in your situation is to add 5 FC of liquid chlorine to your pool daily until your test kit arrives. That will keep any algae problems from getting worse.

Good luck.

 

[mguzzy]

The Slam process is an easy concept... you raise your FC to a level shown on the FC/CYA Levels and keep it there until you pass three criteria... water is clear, you can pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and your CC is less than .5, that's it! But you need to be able to monitor your chlorine level. That's where the test kit comes in. YOu have a TF100 on the way... lets get that learn it and then proceed to the next step. Don't make it more difficult that it needs to be.. just take it a step at a time.

BTW welcome to the forum!

 

[TxPoolGrl]

Welcome, here is what I would do:

• Take a deep breath, you have this
• This site is all about getting accurate data, for you that would include 2 things: 1) Get a good test kit (we can help you buy and learn the testing) 2) tell us more about your pool (how many gallons, type of filter, etc.)
• Assuming you have algae, you need to follow the SLAM advice. In general, SLAM is bringing up your chlorine to "shock level" and maintaining that level until all of the algae is dead and filtered out, usually 3+ days of work here.

If you want our help, tell us more about your pool and look into the good test kits.

A couple of other things, there is no such thing as a saltwater filter. Pentair makes all 3 types of filters (DE, Sand, and Cartridge). I also would not add the shock packets as those will add CYA and seems like you have already been battling it. The general rule of thumb for people in your situation is to add 5 FC of liquid chlorine to your pool daily until your test kit arrives. That will keep any algae problems from getting worse.

Good luck.

My pool is pebble, cartridge Pentair, 24,000 gallons. My water is clear right now and no visible green, but when I brush the bottom powder comes up slightly and has a faint green tint.... I think I’ll run the hose in the deep end for 24 hours to replace some of the water before starting the slam, I for some reason read something on here that made me think the slam was for just saltwater pools. Below is a photo I took just now, no visible green, crystal clear, but on the bottom a faint powder if I brush I don’t want it to get worse but I can’t slam until I get the cya down.
I have a Taylor kit for free chlorine, bromine and PH. My free chlorine is a 3, I didn’t add chlorine yesterday or today...should I add a lot of chlorine...run the pumps 24 hours then put the hose in the bottom deep end turn off pumps and replace water 24 hours? I think that may be best...get my cya down and then slam

 

[TxPoolGrl]

Welcome to TFP.

The reason TFP recommends only Liquid Chlorine is because the only thing it will add to your water is Chlorine. Sure, it will eventually break down to salt (NaCl), but all chlorine will go that way. Liquid Chlorine is used for EVERYTHING that required chlorine.

The most common granular shock is Cal-Hypo and to use you need to know where your CH stands, because it will add Calcium to you water (you can use PoolMath to calculate how much). So you need a test kit.
The other common granular shock is Dichlor which will add CYA....

The test kit is quite simple to use once you get a handle on it. You can use the TF-100 kit quick reference guide testing instructions @mguzzy created. It helps a lot.

SLAM Process is not too complicated and will ensure algae is DEAD. However you will need to follow it, have a good test kit and it will required quite some LC. Based on the picture you posted your pool doesn't seem to bad.

Until you get your test kit add about 1 1/2 gal of 7.5% Liquid Chlorine (plain, unscented, non-splashless, non-cloromax, bleach). That will get you to about 5 ppm of FC and prevent any further growth.

Regarding the electronic pool tester. The only reliable way to test your water is with a high quality test kit. A electronic tester will require frequent calibration and you will still need a regular test kit to know

Welcome to TFP.

The reason TFP recommends only Liquid Chlorine is because the only thing it will add to your water is Chlorine. Sure, it will eventually break down to salt (NaCl), but all chlorine will go that way. Liquid Chlorine is used for EVERYTHING that required chlorine.

The most common granular shock is Cal-Hypo and to use you need to know where your CH stands, because it will add Calcium to you water (you can use PoolMath to calculate how much). So you need a test kit.
The other common granular shock is Dichlor which will add CYA....

The test kit is quite simple to use once you get a handle on it. You can use the TF-100 kit quick reference guide testing instructions @mguzzy created. It helps a lot.

SLAM Process is not too complicated and will ensure algae is DEAD. However you will need to follow it, have a good test kit and it will required quite some LC. Based on the picture you posted your pool doesn't seem to bad.

Until you get your test kit add about 1 1/2 gal of 7.5% Liquid Chlorine (plain, unscented, non-splashless, non-cloromax, bleach). That will get you to about 5 ppm of FC and prevent any further growth.

Regarding the electronic pool tester. The only reliable way to test your water is with a high quality test kit. A electronic tester will require frequent calibration and you will still need a regular test kit to know when it off.

I’m going to try to get my cya down then do the slam method... my cya is close to 100 so I guess I’ll need to address that first, because lookin at the chart it looks like I’d have to have a chlorine level of 39 to shock it... I don’t know how to do that. I have a Taylor kit that measures free chlorine and it doesn’t go that high... so I want to get my cya down... my water isn’t bad at all crystal clear, but I see a faint powder when brushing

 

[JJ_Tex]

Ultimately you need a proper test kit and SLAM to kill algae.

If your CYA is up to 100, at least go by the chart and bump up your FC to the target range for your CYA. If helpful, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your pool by a FC of 4.2.

You could add 2 gallons of that tonight or tomorrow to get it into range, then 1 gallon daily on a go forward basis, but at some point you are going to need to get the better kit to get an accurate reading.

 

[reggiehammond]

I’m going to try to get my cya down then do the slam method... my cya is close to 100 so I guess I’ll need to address that first, because lookin at the chart it looks like I’d have to have a chlorine level of 39 to shock it... I don’t know how to do that. I have a Taylor kit that measures free chlorine and it doesn’t go that high... so I want to get my cya down... my water isn’t bad at all crystal clear, but I see a faint powder when brushing

Many here can speak from experience - don’t try anything until you have a test kit and good data. You’ll just be throwing money away - your cya might be 30, it might be 130. Pool store testing is so bad that it literally cannot be trusted.
Seeing debris when brushing shows you need to SLAM but there is no point until you can test with either a K2006C or TF100.

 

[TxPoolGrl]

I’ll get one of those two, which is easier to learn?

 

[mguzzy]

I’ll get one of those two, which is easier to learn?

The tests are the same.. Both are Taylor based tests. However the TFTest kits have a different proportion of reagents that are more suited to the kind of testing we do here. Given the choice I would get the TFtest kits. I am partial to the Pro version of the kits. They come with a stirrer which is worth its weight in gold. Its so much easier to do the tests with something stirring for you. You don't need the salt version since you don't have a salt water chlorinator.

 

[reggiehammond]

I’ll get one of those two, which is easier to learn?

I'd go with the TF100; I highly recommend a Taylor speedstir as a must-have part of testing. Testing is not complicated; you follow simple instructions for amount of water, number of drops of each reagent, then you simply count drops in the final step. My 3.5 year old helps me "do my science" but sometimes her drop counting is a little suspect "1, 2, 5, 9, 4."
I can run a full set of tests in less than 10 minutes; but in reality, daily, you'll spend more time walking out to get the pool water sample, than actually testing the pH and FC/CC levels.

 

[Newdude]

(I’m still working on test kit I’m nervous about how complicated it will be)

Hey TxPG and Welcome !!

Worry not about the complexities of the reliable test kits after you read this

So you are new to testing

Ladies and Gentlemen, boys and girls, AH-64 Apache attack helicopters…… It’s that time of year again with an influx of newbs either getting a late start or coming to us trying to undo what hasn’t been working. First of all, I’d like to welcome you all. You’re gonna love it here. We will...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[AK-]

The SpeedStir is for lazy people. That is why I love mine.

 

[reggiehammond]

The SpeedStir is for lazy people. That is why I love mine.

Lazy - but it's also tricky to swirl and do the drops at the same time. Definitely a learned skill!

 

[Newdude]

The SpeedStir is for lazy people. That is why I love mine

I can pat my head, rub my belly *and* count drops while jumping on one foot. I would SO much rather press a button and watch you do all that while all I have to do is count the drops.

 

[kimkats]

You are in some of the best hands there is to get your pool looking better than it ever has before!!

 

[TxPoolGrl]

Hey TxPG and Welcome !!

Worry not about the complexities of the reliable test kits after you read this

So you are new to testing

Ladies and Gentlemen, boys and girls, AH-64 Apache attack helicopters…… It’s that time of year again with an influx of newbs either getting a late start or coming to us trying to undo what hasn’t been working. First of all, I’d like to welcome you all. You’re gonna love it here. We will...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you!

 

[TxPoolGrl]

I'd go with the TF100; I highly recommend a Taylor speedstir as a must-have part of testing. Testing is not complicated; you follow simple instructions for amount of water, number of drops of each reagent, then you simply count drops in the final step. My 3.5 year old helps me "do my science" but sometimes her drop counting is a little suspect "1, 2, 5, 9, 4."
I can run a full set of tests in less than 10 minutes; but in reality, daily, you'll spend more time walking out to get the pool water sample, than actually testing the pH and FC/CC levels.

Thank you!

 

[TxPoolGrl]

The tests are the same.. Both are Taylor based tests. However the TFTest kits have a different proportion of reagents that are more suited to the kind of testing we do here. Given the choice I would get the TFtest kits. I am partial to the Pro version of the kits. They come with a stirrer which is worth its weight in gold. Its so much easier to do the tests with something stirring for you. You don't need the salt version since you don't have a salt water chlorinator.

Ok thank you!

 

[TxPoolGrl]

Update I had a friend with a reliable cya, I’m at 80 for sure so doing overflow for 48 hours then running pumps for 24 hours then hopefully I’ll make up my mind which test to get and I’ll get it shipped soon...deciding on one of the two y’all recommended..I just found the comparison chart.
I’m eating bleach like crazy so I have to get the cya down...luckily the 2 1/2 gallons of bleach I put in 2 days ago seemed to make it sparkle again

hoping the chlorine in the new water is going to keep it from turning green in the overflow process.
I zip tied my hose to the net to anchor it in the deep end which is 8+ feet. Pump schedule erased leaving it to overflow for 48 hours

then probably will need to slam after I test chlorine (which I have a Taylor test to test free chlorine now)

hoping to have my new test by the end of next week and report good news