New Saltwater Pool

akaleto

Member
Apr 25, 2020
8
Ocean Springs, MS
Pool Size
16512
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
I've decided to go saltwater with the new above ground pool. I have my shopping list to include:
  • Intex Ultra 32x16x52" ($2079 Lowe's), comes with a 2800 gal/hr pump, which I understand that I should upgrade.
  • The saltwater unit will be purchased separately ($182.00 Amazon), because I couldn't find a better deal with it bundled.
  • The ground liner and cover are included with the pool.
  • 200# of Clorox or Morton's pool salt
  • Intex automatic pool vacuum from Loew's for $135 (it's the one that does walls, too)
  • 3 yards of sand - I've set up the rental of a Bobcat to tear out the sod and carry the sand.
  • (24) 18x18 patio bricks (for the legs)
Questions that I have:
  • Money IS an object, here. I've got the initial outlay, I'm more concerned with down the road. I've only ever done chlorine pools, is this a smart move?
  • The largest Intex filter I've seen is 3000 gal/hr, which I can pick up at WM for $228.00 - then keep the 2800 gal one as a back up, or maybe sell. OR do I purchase a larger one, and if so, which one?
  • Is my choice of vacuum decent, or do you have another suggestion?
  • What kind of test kit do I buy?
  • Other chemicals needed are the same that I would use for a chlorine pool, yes?
What am I forgetting?
 
200# of Clorox or Morton's pool salt
Avoid Clorox salt. This is great and available at Lowe's..https://www.lowes.com/pd/Diamond-Crystal-40-lb-Salt-Solar-Crystals/50107190
  • What kind of test kit do I buy?
Buy one of these...Link-->Test Kits Compared
  • Other chemicals needed are the same that I would use for a chlorine pool, yes?
Yes, you will likely only need muriatic acid, chlorine stabilizer, and liquid chlorine to start (SWCG does a poor job of RAISING FC, but is good at keeping it. Use liquid chlorine to raise it to target, then SWCG to keep it).

Read these two articles...should help!
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels

Other AGP owners will weigh in on the other items...
 
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I don't understand how the intex equipment is adequate for those super size above grounds. I guess it seems like it works for some people? Haven't read any detailed reports though.

I am possibly interested in a super size bag pool as my next pool. But I would be using $1500+ of pump, filter, and salt equipment with it.

That's the biggest cost concern with your plan imo, is finding out that the Intex stuff is just wholly inadequate.
 
I don't understand how the intex equipment is adequate for those super size above grounds
It isn't. But the whole pool comes complete in a box for the price of a single component of traditional equipment. When it's upgraded 5 sizes after the fact, it's still 9 sizes too small.

If on a strict budget, or doing an experiment if one wants to have a more permanent pool, then limping along with undersized equipment is the penance. One just has to go in with their eyes wide open to see it in it's proper context and it's a heckuva deal if that's what the budget dictates. The kids sure won't care, floating is floating and all water splashes the same. Ya know? :)
 
I've got an 18x9x52" which we set up this summer - we have spent more money (and time) on it than I originally budgeted. A few things I've learned:
- spend time on leveling the ground. When you think it's level - check again as most likely it's not level. Don't be tempted to rush things because you or your kids want to get into that pool - you'll only be delaying things as you'll have to drain that water and start again.
- dig into the high end, rather than trying to build up sand on the low end. It's best if your pool is sitting on firm undisturbed soil, but you can use thin layer of sand for cushioning.
- I'd recommend getting a better quality ground liner - the one that comes with the Intex pool is not that great.
- don't use patio blocks! We made this mistake and ended up having to drain our pool. One of the blocks cracked pretty much as soon as the pool was filled with water. We ended up digging in deeper into the ground, putting the paver blocks down first, and then pressure treated lumber on top (perpendicular to the U-shaped leg and level with the ground). This has given us confidence that the legs won't sink - we just had record breaking rains and floods in NZ and the pool is still good. Remember - your pool will be HEAVY!
- get a skimmer - this has probably been the best extra investment as it picks up organic matter before it floats to the bottom of the pool.
- the ladder that comes with the pool is very average and wobbly - you may want to invest into a better one
- I'm not sure where you're located but the other things to think about is a solar heating system or the bubble wrap cover so you can use the pool for longer when temperatures start to drop
- if you're planning to take your pool down in winter invest in a sub pump. Otherwise it may take you days to drain the pool.

Can't give any advice on the salt water system though as we're just using chlorine at the moment, but may invest in the salt water system next summer.
 
Last edited:
I've got an 18x9x52" which we set up this summer - we have spent more money (and time) on it than I originally budgeted. A few things I've learned:
- spend time on leveling the ground. When you think it's level - check again as most likely it's not level. Don't be tempted to rush things because you or your kids want to get into that pool - you'll only be delaying things as you'll have to drain that water and start again.
- dig into the high end, rather than trying to build up sand on the low end. It's best if your pool is sitting on firm undisturbed soil, but you can use thin layer of sand for cushioning.
- I'd recommend getting a better quality ground liner - the one that comes with the Intex pool is not that great.
- don't use patio blocks! We made this mistake and ended up having to drain our pool. One of the blocks cracked pretty much as soon as the pool was filled with water. We ended up digging in deeper into the ground, putting the paver blocks down first, and then pressure treated lumber on top (perpendicular to the U-shaped leg and level with the ground). This has given us confidence that the legs won't sink - we just had record breaking rains and floods in NZ and the pool is still good. Remember - your pool will be HEAVY!
- get a skimmer - this has probably been the best extra investment as it picks up organic matter before it floats to the bottom of the pool.
- the ladder that comes with the pool is very average and wobbly - you may want to invest into a better one
- I'm not sure where you're located but the other things to think about is a solar heating system or the bubble wrap cover so you can use the pool for longer when temperatures start to drop
- if you're planning to take your pool down in winter invest in a sub pump. Otherwise it may take you days to drain the pool.

Can't give any advice on the salt water system though as we're just using chlorine at the moment, but may invest in the salt water system next summer.
I appreciate the help! I decided on 16 x 16 x 4 trailer tiles for legs, installed at ground level. I am purchasing a gorilla pad to install under the pool (after levelling and sanding).. I decided on an upgraded filter and automatic vacuum. Installing a proper skimmer would involve cutting the liner - which scares me to death, so I'm looking into the ones that install over the top of the rail. The ladder I purchased last year for the previous pool will work for the new one - its the kind where you can pull up the stairs to keep the littles out. I'm ordering a solar cover so I can get an extra month or so of use, and a debris cover to keep stuff out in the winter. I live on the Gulf Coast of Mississippi so the only thing I have to do is make sure that the filter lines are disconnected in the winter. On occasion it gets to 32 degrees F, but only for a day or two at a time; and winter is only about six weeks here.
 
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I appreciate the help! I decided on 16 x 16 x 4 trailer tiles for legs, installed at ground level. I am purchasing a gorilla pad to install under the pool (after levelling and sanding).. I decided on an upgraded filter and automatic vacuum. Installing a proper skimmer would involve cutting the liner - which scares me to death, so I'm looking into the ones that install over the top of the rail. The ladder I purchased last year for the previous pool will work for the new one - its the kind where you can pull up the stairs to keep the littles out. I'm ordering a solar cover so I can get an extra month or so of use, and a debris cover to keep stuff out in the winter. I live on the Gulf Coast of Mississippi so the only thing I have to do is make sure that the filter lines are disconnected in the winter. On occasion it gets to 32 degrees F, but only for a day or two at a time; and winter is only about six weeks here.
Sounds like you have it all sorted. We have the over the top skimmer and it works really well.
 
For the pool cleaner let us know how it goes, it’s a fairly new model.
Only seen a couple folks here with them.
I had the original model that doesn’t do walls for years (it’s still in the shed as backup).
On my smaller pool (16’ round) I had to close off the return a little to slow it down but on my large pool that has 2 returns that wasn’t necessary. I had a ball valve installed to accomplish this. I assume that even though my pump was larger on the big pool (1.5hp instead of the 2200gph intex),
the fact that I had 2 returns instead of one + a much longer hose slowed her down a bit.

For the swg,
It looks like your pool volume will be approximately 15,300 gallons. That may be pushing it with the 15k intex unit in your climate with your long sunny swim season.
I had one on my 6k gal pool & had to run it about 7 hours a day sometimes more in the dog days of summer. Keep in mind You can only set those units to run 11 hours a day on a schedule so that may leave you needing to supplement with liquid chlorine more than you like
Here’s what 11 hrs a day looks like with that unit in your pool volume
676F0DB2-5AAD-4ACD-9D70-08DFF38705DA.png
Its right on the edge of not quite being enough to maintain in anything but the mildest parts of the season. Most residential pools consume 2-4 ppm of fc per day.
If that pool has 2 returns you can use 2 swg’s instead of 1 - this is what I did for my big pool until my intex units croaked.
But then you’re looking at around $400 for units that might last 3 years. At that price point you might be better off to get 1 more robust unit with a 7-10k hour life span & a higher output.
It is recommended to get a swg rated for at least 2x’s your pool’s volume so a 30k rated one would serve you best.
Here’s a good comparison chart with outputs, prices, warranties etc.
& Here’s a chart I recently made to help me decide on a replacement swg which includes some lesser known yet popular budget options that aren’t included on the dsp chart.
DCA4DC97-1B96-42C2-ABBF-E6D24F5C746B.jpeg
Take pics of your build & what you come up with!
 
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