New salt water pool owner here need some guidance

[6spdg37s]

running at 80% 9 hours a day , FC level of 10 , CC of .5 as it barely turned pink and then 1 drop made it completely clear

if my CC goes higher what is the best treatment for that?

 

[ajw22]

running at 80% 9 hours a day , FC level of 10 , CC of .5 as it barely turned pink and then 1 drop made it completely clear

if my CC goes higher what is the best treatment for that?

CC of 0.5-1.0 is normal sanitation. Over 1.0 then do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[gingrbredman]

running at 80% 9 hours a day

As @setsailsoon notes, you are adding about 2.5 worth of chlorine each day...

At 80% and 9 hr run time you're only adding 2.5 ppm of FC. If you're holding level at that point you're doing pretty good for this time of year.

And with .5 CC, you should be right where you need to be...

CC of 0.5-1.0 is normal sanitation.

Not sure you want to prepare for a higher CC and plan for a correction IF that happens. All your numbers seem to be right in line, would just keep up with the normal testing and enjoy the TFP!

 

[6spdg37s]

As @setsailsoon notes, you are adding about 2.5 worth of chlorine each day...


And with .5 CC, you should be right where you need to be...


Not sure you want to prepare for a higher CC and plan for a correction IF that happens. All your numbers seem to be right in line, would just keep up with the normal testing and enjoy the TFP!

cause I don't know much about this stuff yet and I am learning so I was curious what you do if/when you end up in that situation

 

[setsailsoon]

6,

You're doing fine. Keep your FC good and high like it is until your CYA level drops then you can reduce a little if you want to. Your CC is just partially oxidized organic material. It's pretty normal and will come down. If you are concerned do an OCLT test. If this indicates a SLAM is needed and you catch it quick and SLAM aggressively it will drop right down. SLAM will require some acid and liquid chlorine since your swg isn't really designed to raise FC quickly. See the video below for details. One of the great things about TFP is the methodology is simple and uses your test results to figure out what to do. No mysteries, no worries, no trouble. And best of all it works great! So for now, enjoy your gorgeous pool.

Chris
SLAM Process

 

[6spdg37s]

left it alone for a week , actually about 8 days, checked it and my FC was about 8-8.5 , I turned the SWG back up to 100%. what should I do ?

 

[PoolStored]

I've lost the narrative on the objective you are trying to attain. I thought it was to target maintaining 8-10. If that is still the case, seems like it is working if you left for 8 days and it was 8-8.5!!!

 

[6spdg37s]

I've lost the narrative on the objective you are trying to attain. I thought it was to target maintaining 8-10. If that is still the case, seems like it is working if you left for 8 days and it was 8-8.5!!!

it is, but if another 8 days go by its possible I will be falling below my target

 

[PoolStored]

it is, but if another 8 days go by its possible I will be falling below my target

If I understand correctly, your FC was 10. You were running 80% for 9 hours. You came back after 8 days and it was 8-8.5. Assuming a loss of 2 total, that is .25 loss per day.

Your IC-40, at 80% and 9 hours adds 2.5ppm per day.

You usage was 2.5 + .25 = 2.8ppm/day

Up your pump time to 10 hours and leave at 80%, which will equal an addition of 2.8ppm/day
OR
Up your % to 90% and leave it at 9 hours which will add 2.8ppm/day.

You could do either, or add an hour to each and you will come back a bit high, but high is better than low.

(Note, original numbers, now corrected, were changed because I didn't use your pool size. Numbers are now correct)

 

[setsailsoon]

it is, but if another 8 days go by its possible I will be falling below my target

6,
In your situation with the very high CYA it doesn't hurt to run FC high. As I recall your cell is 4 years old and that's often where production decline starts to be more noticeable. Once your CYA drops down to 70 you will not need as much FC and may get by another year without supplemental liquid chlorine. You can also run your pump longer. You may want to pull the cell also and see if there is scale forming. If so you can acid clean the cell. Don't do this unless you need to since each time you do this you remove beneficial catalytic coating on the cell. I would test CYA, FC, CC, pH and report here before you make any more changes.

Chris

 

[6spdg37s]

6,
In your situation with the very high CYA it doesn't hurt to run FC high. As I recall your cell is 4 years old and that's often where production decline starts to be more noticeable. Once your CYA drops down to 70 you will not need as much FC and may get by another year without supplemental liquid chlorine. You can also run your pump longer. You may want to pull the cell also and see if there is scale forming. If so you can acid clean the cell. Don't do this unless you need to since each time you do this you remove beneficial catalytic coating on the cell. I would test CYA, FC, CC, pH and report here before you make any more changes.

Chris

will do a full set of tests this week and report back.

I am not sure how old the cell is honestly.

 

[6spdg37s]

ok ran all the tests these are my results (sorry this took so long I'm color blind had to wait for my wife to be around to read the results lol)

my FC is 8.5-9 no CC at all , cya- 90-95 , ph was 8 and took 5 drops of r-0005 to get down to 7 with my Taylor kit

my salt is 3600 ppm,

SWG is running 100% for 9 hours a day

what do I need to do should I try to lower my ph? is 8 ok ?

 

[PoolStored]

Great job! Did you end up testing your TA.

At this point, that level of FC is actually pretty good for your CYA.

At that end of the scale, 90-95, is really hard to get accurate, I would have you do a diluted CYA test. Here is how you do it:

1. Add pool water to bottom of sticker or first line
2. Add tap water to top of sticker or top line
3. Shake.
4. Pour out half so mixture water level is to bottom of sticker or bottom line
5. Add reagent to top of sticker or top line
6. Shake.
7. Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
8. Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
9. Double the result.

This will dial us in better on your CYA to make recommendations for FC. Bring that result back. Oh, and when you put the solution into the tube, just fill to each line and look. There are no in-betweenies. CYA always ends with a 0.

Do you have Pool Math? If not check this out --> PoolMath Download it to your phone and use your ID/PW from this forum to log in.

Configure your pool for the size and type etc. It will help you figure out what and how much to add to change your pool chemicals. While you are figuring this out, you can always come here and confirm your recommendations until you are comfortable with Pool Math!

So use pool math to figure out how much Muriatic Acid to add to reduce your pH from 8 to 7.4. That would be a good start.

 

[6spdg37s]

I did not test the TA , I will do that later or tomorrow when I try to do a diluted cya test and yeah I screwed up on the PH test then cause I went from an 8 to a 7 with the drops idk why I was thinking 7 was goal not 7.4
it only took about 3 drops to get to 7.4

ok so the CYA is a 90 cause at 100 the dot was barely visible

 

[PoolStored]

I did not test the TA , I will do that later or tomorrow when I try to do a diluted cya test and yeah I screwed up on the PH test then cause I went from an 8 to a 7 with the drops idk why I was thinking 7 was goal not 7.4
it only took about 3 drops to get to 7.4

ok so the CYA is a 90 cause at 100 the dot was barely visible

TA will give us some insight, so would be good to have.

pH - Anything in the 7s is A-OK. There are reasons and times where targeting 7 is a good idea. If your TA is high and you want to reduce it, targeting 7 is a decent idea. Until we get your TA numbers back, just shoot for 7.4 to be safe. Also, 7.4 target is better when you are new with the pool and you don't have your pool size dialed in. Help to not overshoot!

The dot should be barely visible at your end point for the test. You are likely more like 100 or higher, that is why you should do diluted test. CYA test is hard. Check this out.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[6spdg37s]

^^ sounds good thank you so much for all the help !

 

[6spdg37s]

dumb question but are there different types of or purity forms of muriatic acid ? where do I buy it ? is it all the same ? can I just go to lowes/Home Depot and buy a jug of muriatic acid ?

 

[PoolStored]

Purity is typically not a question. There are different concentrations up to 31.45% also called 20 Degree Baume. Yes, HD/Lowes is fine. Use the stuff in the paint Aisle...

 

[setsailsoon]

^^ sounds good thank you so much for all the help !

6,

There is a more dilute version that's about half strength and sometimes called "green" in the label or "90% less fuming". Some people use it due to sensitivity to the fumes .

Chris

 

[6spdg37s]

6,

There is a more dilute version that's about half strength and sometimes called "green" in the label or "90% less fuming". Some people use it due to sensitivity to the fumes .

Chris

I feel like that means u have to add more to the pool, spend more on the acid, etc; pool is outside I can't see there being a problem with the fumes.... where am I supposed to add this ? in the skimmer , by the jets ? random ? sorry new to this