New Salt Cell?

[jlosurdo]

Hi everyone,

I am a new pool owner (still need to update my signature with my equipment) and looking for advice on replacing my salt cell.

The current salt cell is a T-CELL-15-SWP. I have a 15,000-gallon pool.

My Hayward AquaPod has been telling me that my salt is "very low." However, when I test it with my TF-Pro Salt, it is within the normal range (3,000). I had a pool tech come out today to take a look at it, and he said the salt cell needs to be replaced. He also tested the salt level and said it was around 3,000.

He quoted me $1,822.16 + tax for the part, and $135 for labor.

Two questions:

1) Does a faulty salt cell explain the error I am receiving on the control panel?
2) Is it just me, or does this quote seem VERY high? I can buy a salt cell from Leslie's for $899. It doesn't seem like it would be difficult at all to install. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Joey

 

[ajw22]

1) Does a faulty salt cell explain the error I am receiving on the control panel?

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The AquaRite uses the performance of the cell to determine salinity. For each cell (T-3, T-5, T-9 OR T-15), Hayward knows the performance of a properly functioning cell at each temperature and salinity combination. The higher the salinity and/or water temperature, the higher the performance (chlorine output).

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

2) Is it just me, or does this quote seem VERY high? I can buy a salt cell from Leslie's for $899. It doesn't seem like it would be difficult at all to install. Thoughts?

Typically pool contractor prices are about 2X internet prices. Your guy is on the high side.

Installation of the cell is unscrewing two unions and unplugging one cable then doing the reverse. Should take less then 15 minutes.

 

[jlosurdo]

Thanks for the response. I swapped the cell, and it seems to be working. However, I’m not sure how to perform the procedure you’ve described. I have an integrated system. See pics.

I’ve also attached the pic of the panel, the installed salt cell, it’s serial number, and the box number.

Do you happen to know the procedures required for the Pro Logic panel?

Because of how close the salt cell is to the heater, I couldn’t get it installed perfectly horizontal as you can see in the pic, will that present an issue?

Thanks again.

 

[ajw22]

For Prologic report all readings when you..

• Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
• When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
• Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[jlosurdo]

Thanks, again. You’re my hero.

Here are the readings:
Initial:
25.64V
7.16A
82F
3500

Reverse:
-25.48V
-7.25A
82F
3600

Last:
25.48V
7.21A
82F
3600

 

[ajw22]

Those diagnostics say the cell is working fine.

 

[JamesW]

You should lower the salinity.

When the heater is on, the amperage will go up and if it hits 8 amps, it will shut off.

 

[JamesW]

Watch the amperage the next time you start the heater to see how much the amperage goes up as the water temperature increases coming out of the heater.

Also note the temperature difference.

The temperature can go up as much as 16 degrees, but it should not go higher than a 16 degree increase.

If the temperature rise is more than 16 degrees, the flow is too low.

82 degrees + 16 = 98 degrees out of the heater, which will cause probably more than 1 amp of extra current, which will put the amperage over 8 amps.

If you don't want a shutdown during heating, the salinity will need to come down to about 3,000 to 3,200 ppm.

In some cases, the best way to operate with a heater is to switch the cell type to T-9 and run the salinity at about 2,400 ppm to 2,700 ppm actual, but the box will read at about 4,000 ppm.

 

[jlosurdo]

Watch the amperage the next time you start the heater to see how much the amperage goes up as the water temperature increases coming out of the heater.

Also note the temperature difference.

The temperature can go up as much as 16 degrees, but it should not go higher than a 16 degree increase.

If the temperature rise is more than 16 degrees, the flow is too low.

82 degrees + 16 = 98 degrees out of the heater, which will cause probably more than 1 amp of extra current, which will put the amperage over 8 amps.

If you don't want a shutdown during heating, the salinity will need to come down to about 3,000 to 3,200 ppm.

In some cases, the best way to operate with a heater is to switch the cell type to T-9 and run the salinity at about 2,400 ppm to 2,700 ppm actual, but the box will read at about 4,000 ppm.

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I’m testing again tomorrow. I’ll drain and fill based on the results.