New RJ-30+ cell, zero amps, 28v, 0000 salinity?

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There are lots of good videos on this. Watch a one or two until you're comfortable. Here's one. Seriously, inside the breaker panel you really need to know what you're doing and get an electrician if needed. Watch him and you'll learn it very quickly. For a 120v circuit you take the hot (black wire) from the breaker and a wire from the neutral bus (white wire).

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
djdonte said:
For 120 do I just hook one hot and the other to the ground?
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If you talking about converting the circuit from 220 to 110, then you'll need to:
1. Change one of the conductors (wires) from hot to neutral. Make 100% sure it's the same wire on both ends and mark both ends with a piece of white tape or something to show it is now neutral. It gets connected to the neutral bus bar in the breaker panel.
2. Make changes at the break box to change from a double-pole 220V breaker circuit to a simple 110V breaker and circuit.
3. There will (or should be) be a separate ground (green or copper) wire for that circuit as well. It will go to ground in the breaker box and then to ground on the motor. That is different from the thicker #8 "bond" wire on the equipment pad that goes to the motor's bond lug.
4. Remember, the RJ series come pre-configured for 220V. You have to install the jumper internally in the module for it to accept 110V.

If you have ANY questions, stop and ask. Don't take any chances with electricity unless you know exactly what to do.
 
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Yeah I’m not gonna mess with the breaker panel. The pump feeds off the same 220 circuit the SWG is hooked up to so I can’t change a hot to neutral. I’m just going to see what happens with this new control box.
 
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I got the new control box hooked up and it seems to work. It generates and I see the bubbly haze in the cell. I am still feel like the cell is sub par in terms of FC production. I ran it for 3 hours it only raised my FC by 1. It should be closer to 2 according to pool math, although I know that is under optimal conditions. The sun was going down so there couldn't have been much UV and I was prudent about keeping the FC up while the cell was out of commission, so I don't think I have algae. Its pretty hot here so I'll see how the FC holds up during the day. I do need to bump up my CYA a hair, but I dont want to do that until I am sure this thing is solid, in case I need to SLAM again or go back to LC.

I'm still a little annoyed that after paying for shipping both ways, and DSP swearing it ran for an hour no problem I still had to cough up 300 bucks for a refurbished control box with a 90 day warranty instead of them prorating me a replacement that still has a few years of warranty on it. Its pretty obvious from the packaging of the new cell that they are just reselling Chinese parts. QC has been near nonexistent in manufacturing ever since covid so we'll see.
 
Now my high salt light is on, but I still see the hazy bubbles. Could this be hampering my FC production? I know low salt shuts the cell down but the manual doesnt mention much on high salt.

My test says 4400 which is close to the SWG readout. We are supposed to get rain from the tropical storm tonight and tomorrow. My pool will surely drain out of the overflow if we get as much rain as I think. Hopefully that will dilute it a bit then I can drain off whatever else I need to.
 
This may be a shot in the dark, but the new unit may be configured for a temp sensor in the flow switch as opposed to within the cell. There's a jumper in the control panel that configures the unit for the temp sensor type.

Circupool SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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Its for sure not stuck on 77. I guess I'm going to bring the salt back down to the recommended level after this rainstorm. I have dealt with DSP a bunch and they will 100 percent not help until I do that.
 
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Well I got home and the SWG still isn't keeping up. I had to supplement with some LC. I did an OCLT and I only lost 0.5 but I have 1.0CC so I guess I need to SLAM again before I can blame the cell. I am going to replace some water to bring the salt and CYA down. Slamming with CYA of 60 really sucks with current LC prices. I'm working long days right now, so if I SLAMed now, the pool would sit thru the hottest part of the day without any testing or LC addition. I will have to keep it topped off and start SLAMing this weekend.
 
I wouldn't SLAM based soley on a CC level of 1.0 unless you have visible signs of algae. Were you able to track your daily FC loss when you were using liquid chlorine? Make sure to keep your FC level above minimum and well into the target range.
 
Yes I was using 4-5FC a day. A little high as its usually 4ish but its crazy hot outside and my CYA is 60. I usually keep it closer to 80 during the summer. Water is clear. I cant explain why my SWG isnt keeping up though. If you think CC is not a reason to slam, perhaps I'll do one more OCLT, lower salt level them bump up my CYA.
 
While the controller shows amps and volts go grab an empty water bottle, squeeze it flt and then fill it from right in front of a return. Now test this water for its FC contents as it needs to be somewhat higher the the pool water away from the return.
 
djdonte said:
Perhaps I should run my SWG over night to see what it adds with no UV?
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You can do an overnight chlorine production test. I did this back when my SWG was about 13 months old. I found that it was performing at about 70% of the claimed capacity, which is likely overinflated by the manufacturer.

Circupool RJ-45 Production Test

@JamesW, is there ANY reference, image, or shortcut you don't already have on your phone or laptop? :poke: :)
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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