New Pool

[ChunkyGuacamole]

Hi! Our new pool was filled 30 days ago and next Tuesday I am having “pool school” with the builder and then will be caring for the pool myself. The pool has wetedge pebble interior.

Once the screen is up the PB will install the 3 fountain bowls that are evenly spaced along the rear of the pool and 3 deck jets for the sun shelf. I have small kids so will probably run the deck jets quite a bit.

I’ve had an above ground spa for about 6 years and have cared for saltwater reef aquariums for about 20 years so I have a fair amount of experience with water chemistry, just not with so large a body of water.

I have tested the pool water a few times and had a quick question.

In the morning the PH is high, sometimes as high as 8.2 but if I test again in the afternoon it’ll go down to about 7.9. Should I add MA to bring it down a smidge?

Once the water features are installed I’m concerned the PH will be going even higher.

FC 3
CYA 38
TA 80
CA 180 (I know it’s low, PB will fix Tuesday)
Salt 3200
Temp around 88 during the day.

The pool gets full sun all day. I imagine the temperature will drop a bit once the enclosure goes up. I plan on planting some bird of paradise and other large leafy plants on either side.

Thanks!!

 

[Texas Splash]

Your pH may be fluctuating a bit if the pump is off for a certain period. Or is it running 24/7? Regardless, I would ensure the pH remains at 7.8 or slightly below.

Most importantly though, how are you testing your water? Your signature details are blank, so please take a few moments to update your signature and include the test kit. That will give us more confidence in providing accurate replies. Congrats on the new pool.

 

[ChunkyGuacamole]

Hi! I am using a Taylor DPD kit. I also have a digital PH meter for quick checks.

The pump runs for a couple hours on high and 18 hours on low right now, after Tuesday I’ll drop that down.

 

[.ben]

Welcome!

You will have to deal with high pH for at least 6 months with a new plaster pool. Shop around for Muriatic Acid.

The Taylor FAS-DPD is exactly what you need to check chlorine, however you other numbers seem like they come from pool store testing. Unfortunately pools store tests have been shown to be too inaccurate to rely on.

Please see test kits compared.

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why not use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

I’m a huge fan of the TF Pro (Salt) which includes the optional smartstir which makes testing easier.

Have you started the SWG yet? I would not reduce pump time until you understand your daily chlorine demand and SWG production rates. I run my VSP for 24 hours.

Have you downloaded Pool Math? There are links to pool school inside the app.

When your builder does “pool school” pay attention to how your equipment works but you should generally avoid the chemistry advice of most builders.

 

[ChunkyGuacamole]

My SWG is set at 35% right now, builder had set it at 45 and FC was climbing, so I dropped it to 35 and am monitoring it. Seems to be holding at 3.

I am using my Taylor DPD for my testing, number previously posted are from my kit, not the pool store. Wetedge requires a monthly “professional” test for interior finish warranty purposes, so I imagine I’ll be visiting the pool store once a month to get the water test and be blabbed at by the 17 year old behind the counter telling me I need to add this or that.

When my Taylor kit runs low I plan on buying the TF kit you mentioned.

I do have Pool math and I subscribed.

I purchased two gallons of MA at Home Depot today and ordered a 40lb box of calcium chloride to have handy. They don’t stock it here, but ship to store was an option.

Thanks!

 

[dfwnoob]

Welcome to TFP, @ChunkyGuacamole !

The Taylor CYA test is logarithmic, you can't extrapolate values between the graduated increments. If it looks like it's "38", it's 40.

Technically, there are a few Taylor test kits with "DPD" reagents - both the K-2005 and the K-2006 could fall into this category, but only the K-2006/K-2006C has the FAS-DPD test which is what you actually need. If you indeed have a K-2006/K-2006C you're good to go, no need to buy a new test kit unless you just want one. If you have a K-2005, you'll want to supplement it by buying the K1515A FAS-DPD test separately.

I definitely suggest buying a SpeedStir if you don't have one already.