Thank You for that information. I went through the whole thing. I also called my pool contractor since he is the one who said they would monitor the chemistry of the pool for the first three weeks to see what he has to say.What startup guide are you following? Follow the startup guide for the first 30 days then transition to TFP guidelines...
Why no heater use for first 30 days? With new plaster there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation in the heater increases significantly. The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it. Your risk of rushing to use the heater is scale clogging up the heater coil.
So from the numbers you see, you think just let it run over the next couple of days and see how it behaves? The web site for the Diamond brite says to maintain the FC at 1 to 3 and I am soo high. I did dial down the in line chlorinator to a very low setting and will most likely not use it except if we are away.PoolMath tells you what to add if you need a result immediately. Aside from FC and maybe CYA (if low) you really don't need to instantly add chems when PoolMath tells you to. It's all about learning when you have to add other things.
Calcium - only needs to be added if your CSI is low and you have a plaster pool (like you do). You adjusted that and your CSI isn't overly negative so you're fine there.
TA - this really only needs to be increased if you're below 50 and your pH is a concern. Above 90 and it's OK as it will slowly come down with time as you add more acid - unless it throws your CSI too high to the positive side. You still need to know what it is when you adjust your pH because it's part of the math used to know how much acid to add to lower pH.
pH - this is important to keep in the 7s. If you chlorinate with liquid chlorine, your pH will likely rise over time as liquid chlorine is pH neutral and pools naturally rise due to CO2 offgassing. So you will probably need to add muriatic acid occasionally to bring it down. (This will lower your TA at the same time if it is high.)
I really appreciate your input. I’ve been reading a ton on all the forums, trying to learn as much as possible. Most definitely have concluded that we threw our money away buying that in line chlorinator. Maybe it will be useful for a few days if we need to travel and leave the pool unattended.The way that traditionally pool maintenance has been recommended for levels is not how TFP recommends. We use newer chemistry understanding, especially concerning the CYA / FC relationship. So you will see most pool things recommending lower levels of FC than here, because they don't take that into account.
If there's a warranty you need to worry about that requires FC to be tested, you might have to deal with that. I would NOT recommend using any tabs at all, in the chlorinator or otherwise, with a CYA of 50. If it goes higher you will need even higher FC levels to maintain sanitation. I would recommend liquid chlorine only.