New Pool Owners

HeritageCove

Active member
Aug 17, 2010
41
Orlando, Florida
We're new green pool owners as of December 2009. We've bought tons of stuff from the pool stores, but still have yet to get the pool clean enough to swim in. The pool is mostly blue, but still cloudy (we're still finding algae when we brush). The water test kit (K-2006) is in the mail and should arrive this weekend. The pool water was tested at the store on 8/14/10 with the following results:

FC - 7.4
CC - not available
pH - 6.6
TA - 80
Hardness - 310
CYA - 100
Borates - not using

We've been using the pucks in the floater, but we took those out today. We've also been shocking with the powder cal hypo, but we're switching to bleach effective immediately.

We live in Central Florida and the pool gets sunshine all day--does this qualify as "extreme sunshine" to justify a higher CYA? If so, the plan is to drain 30% of the water to reduce the CYA to 70 (based on the Pool Calculator). Then we would raise the pH and shock according to the directions in the Pool School. Should we wait until the pool test kit arrives before we drain or go ahead and start the process based on the pool store's numbers?

This forum is great! We've already learned a great deal from all your expertise!

Thanks,
Sara and Gary
 

Richard320

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
20,396
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
:cheers:

I toast you for ordering a test kit and reading Pool School before posting the first time! You'll have fun playing junior scientist with your test kit. And it's completely normal to obsess over it and test the water daily or more often, even after everything is stabilized and in range. :-D
 

Isaac-1

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 10, 2010
6,711
SW Louisiana
It sounds like a partial drain and refill is in order to me, with that high CYA it is likely next to impossible to keep the chlorine high enough for long enough to kill off everything growing in the pool. Think of it as a war with algae trying to kill it faster than it can reproduce, if you don't / can't send in enough troops (chlorine) and resupply them at best you will fight to a draw.

Ike
 

HeritageCove

Active member
Aug 17, 2010
41
Orlando, Florida
Thanks everyone! The test kit did NOT arrive today, so I am hesitant to start the drain. I will either take another sample to the pool store or buy a cheap kit at walmart. I understand they can both be a bit inaccurate, but what are my options?

My next question is: a brief Internet search indicated that my 1HP pool pump should move water at 80gpm, so I should be able to remove 4,800 gal in an hour. Can anyone confirm that this is the amount of water it should move? If not, how do I know when I've drained the appropriate amount? (3-5,000 gal or 20-30%)
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
31,502
Sebring, Florida
If not, how do I know when I've drained the appropriate amount? (3-5,000 gal or 20-30%)
Estimate it by eyeballing. If your pool averages 4' in depth, take out about 1.5 feet (just as an example.)

I know that seems ragged but you'll come closer doing that than trying to estimate your pump gpm. Secondly, if you take out a little extra, it's very easy to bring it back up with more CYA.

I would suggest not draining more than 1/3 at any given time. Draining twice is fine if it doesn't come down enough on the first try.

Last, I would suggest a target of 60 CYA rather than 70. It's sorta' splittin hairs but a CYA of 60 will probably make everything a little easier.

I would also just wait on the kit. I know you're anxious to get started but your sorta' flyin blind without that good kit.
 

HeritageCove

Active member
Aug 17, 2010
41
Orlando, Florida
Thanks again!

I did get anxious, so I started draining. "Track packages" says the test kit should arrive tonight (fingers crossed). I know if the pH is out of range, I want to adjust before shocking. If it's high and I add MA (slowly in front of jet), how soon can I test to make sure it's in range before I shock? I'm still fighting algae, so I want to shock asap. It hasn't been green for a couple of weeks, but it's not clear either.
 

geekgranny

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 20, 2009
1,358
North Central Texas
You are certainly on the right track. :goodjob:

ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER - NOT water to acid.

I like to dilute the MA before pouring it in front of return. That stuff sinks like lead as it is so much heavier than water. I use a 3 or so gallon, plastic bucket, filled about 2/3 with pool water and then measure out the MA into plastic measure cup and gently lower an edge of the cup into the bucket of water to pour it in. This reduces splashes. Then I pour that in front of a return lowering the bucket partially into the pool water; again to reduce splashing. This keeps any concentrated acid from going down the sides and bottom. If you don't have a bottom drain some acid can even settle for a bit of time on bottom.

I use a smaller bucket as it is easier to handle and not so heavy and store the bucket out of sun to keep the "plastic" in better shape. Also, plastic handle preferred.

Rinse bucket and cup well in area of pool away from addition. (It's really safest to use the MA cup only for acid and not anything else.) Also, a good idea to do the measuring and pouring away from any surface you don't want stained. I always measure out on the top of a poly storage container and then rinse it down with pool water, using that bucket after it is rinsed in pool. A small amount of acid can run down the side of bottle so be very selective where you set it down, leave it for a bit, or store it as that tiny bit of acid can damage many surfaces.

gg=alice
 
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