New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

[PoolStored]

Turn SWG off for OCLT, and at least 30 min before test…

 

[PoolStored]

Let’s not worry about TA. We will teach you that all you need to do is manage pH and leave TA alone.

 

[Pas_pool]

Turn SWG off for OCLT, and at least 30 min before test…

I will go turn it off now. And test around 8:15 or 8:30

 

[Newdude]

have the SWG set for 40% currently. Should that be lowered to 20% after we pass this overnight test.

We will have to road test the daily loss / SWG once the CYA gets bumped.

Also on that chart you added. The one that came with my TF pro test kit. Had 60 cya in the green as well. Where is the chart you added from?

60 works for most of the season up north but probably won't in a heat wave. So its kinda on the fence. In the hot climates they may need 90 at times.

And when you say losing 4, 2, and 1ppm a day depends on when in the season you are. You mean chlorine ppm?

Yes.

If so, tue SWG is regenerating that to make it balanced again. Do I have that right?

Yes. The SWG is just your little buddy that adds FC for you. Technically you are losing X per day and adding the same X per day, you just aren't lugging jugs for it.

So much thrown at me in a short amount of time.

We got you. And please ask anytime, and/or as many times as you need. If you goof we might have multiple things to fix, and i promise that we got you there too, but It's better for all parties to only have one fish to fry.

 

[PoolStored]

Sunrise is 5:44 in Colchester!

 

[Pas_pool]

Sunrise is 5:44 in Colchester!

Haha I’m well aware unfortunately. But I wake up at 5am so all good there just need to cut my workout a little short. Teacher life with a 2 year old and an infant

 

[Newdude]

I’m well aware unfortunately

I've actually been excited about it recently because I've been watching the sky get blue while making my coffee thermos but I haven't seen the sun come up yet before I get to work.

 

[Pas_pool]

I've actually been excited about it recently because I've been watching the sky get blue while making my coffee thermos but I haven't seen the sun come up yet before I get to work.

Agreed. I’m liking the later days of course. But liking the sun starting to come up earlier too

 

[Pas_pool]

Okay, night time reading is in (I know I only needed to take FC, but I’m just getting practice using the test kit).

SWG was shut off around 7:30pm.

My pump will shut off at 10pm. So I’m going to stay up and watch the Knicks (hopefully win) and I’ll go out there and turn it on low so it stays on over night.

I’ll wake up at 5am and go out and check to make sure the pump is still on. If it is, I’ll take my sample then. If it shuts off for whatever reason I’ll turn it back on and take my sample around 5:40am.

hope I did everything right so far

 

[Pas_pool]

Morning reading:
FC: 4
Cc: .5

So I passed the overnight test. Ok. So what’s next from my reading above? Stabilizer? More muriatic acid to bring TA down?

Also, what should I modify my pump schedule to be. 24 hours at what RPMs?

Or do you recommend a different schedule? I plan to have one of the three options to be 2200 rpms for when I run my heat pump.

 

[PoolStored]

Great. Let's get 30ppm of stabilizer in socks. Hang in front of returns, carrot on a stick style. Let it dissolve. You can squeeze the sock to help it dissolve.

Once the sock hits the water, assume your CYA is 50 (your test looks like *maybe* 20, and you are adding 30, so 50 for now). Add enough liquid chlorine to get your FC up to the top of the range for your CYA of 50. See here. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Turn your chlorinator up to 40%. Will likely be too high for this time of the year, but that is ok. Remember, FC up to SLAM level is ok for people and equipment. Better to be high, than low. You may be switching your cell between 20/40/60, to keep your FC in range. FC is consumed by UV primarily. Shoulder seasons (April/May and Sept/Oct) UV is lower. June July Aug, UV is higher. You just need to adjust your %output up and down to maintain FC in range for your CYA.

Once the CYA is dissolved, wait 24-48 hours and retest CYA.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

The pump side is more difficult.
The easiest would be to set your pump speed at 2200 for all three programs and forget about it. 2200, with a superflo should give you the 30GPM the heater needs. Gas heaters are better at heating quickly, HP do better when maintaining a temp. The best strategy may be to just run the 2200 and HP on all the time to maintain temp.

The alternative is to test the RPM to run the SWG. Use the down arrows to lower the RPM, until the low flow light comes on the SWG. Then add 200 RPM and program your pump to run at that speed 24/7. When you want to heat, and you turn on the heater, you will need to re-program your superflo to run 2200 RPM 24/7.

We are pinching pennies with the pump and the HP. Running a low speed, like 1400 will be $20/month electricity cost, 2200 will be like $60/month. Being a teacher with an infant, (*I don't know*??), $$ is important. Programming/re-programming the pump to run SWG at low flow 1400 vs. 2200 when you want to run HP is a chore. The trade-off is yours to decide. If you have the funds, set the pump to run 2200 24/7 and forget it.



Use muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.2 to 7.4. Do it in .4 increments. Add enough to lower pH by .4, wait 30 minutes, and test, add again until you get 7.2 to 7.4. Then leave pH alone. It will rise naturally. When pH gets over 8 (purple hues), repeat the process to lower to 7.2-7.4. When you add acid, pH and TA drops. pH will rise naturally. Over time your TA will come down. When TA gets to 60-80, STOP lowering pH to 7.2-7.4, pH should stabilize around 7.8-8.0, which is just fine. I would test your fill water for TA.

At this point, other than maintaining FC for your CYA, and maintaining a pH in the range of 7.0 to 8.0, you are golden.

Good Job!

 

[Pas_pool]

Great. Let's get 30ppm of stabilizer in socks. Hang in front of returns, carrot on a stick style. Let it dissolve. You can squeeze the sock to help it dissolve.

Once the sock hits the water, assume your CYA is 50 (your test looks like *maybe* 20, and you are adding 30, so 50 for now). Add enough liquid chlorine to get your FC up to the top of the range for your CYA of 50. See here. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Turn your chlorinator up to 40%. Will likely be too high for this time of the year, but that is ok. Remember, FC up to SLAM level is ok for people and equipment. Better to be high, than low. You may be switching your cell between 20/40/60, to keep your FC in range. FC is consumed by UV primarily. Shoulder seasons (April/May and Sept/Oct) UV is lower. June July Aug, UV is higher. You just need to adjust your %output up and down to maintain FC in range for your CYA.

Once the CYA is dissolved, wait 24-48 hours and retest CYA.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

The pump side is more difficult.
The easiest would be to set your pump speed at 2200 for all three programs and forget about it. 2200, with a superflo should give you the 30GPM the heater needs. Gas heaters are better at heating quickly, HP do better when maintaining a temp. The best strategy may be to just run the 2200 and HP on all the time to maintain temp.

The alternative is to test the RPM to run the SWG. Use the down arrows to lower the RPM, until the low flow light comes on the SWG. Then add 200 RPM and program your pump to run at that speed 24/7. When you want to heat, and you turn on the heater, you will need to re-program your superflo to run 2200 RPM 24/7.

We are pinching pennies with the pump and the HP. Running a low speed, like 1400 will be $20/month electricity cost, 2200 will be like $60/month. Being a teacher with an infant, (*I don't know*??), $$ is important. Programming/re-programming the pump to run SWG at low flow 1400 vs. 2200 when you want to run HP is a chore. The trade-off is yours to decide. If you have the funds, set the pump to run 2200 24/7 and forget it.

View attachment 642330

Use muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.2 to 7.4. Do it in .4 increments. Add enough to lower pH by .4, wait 30 minutes, and test, add again until you get 7.2 to 7.4. Then leave pH alone. It will rise naturally. When pH gets over 8 (purple hues), repeat the process to lower to 7.2-7.4. When you add acid, pH and TA drops. pH will rise naturally. Over time your TA will come down. When TA gets to 60-80, STOP lowering pH to 7.2-7.4, pH should stabilize around 7.8-8.0, which is just fine. I would test your fill water for TA.

At this point, other than maintaining FC for your CYA, and maintaining a pH in the range of 7.0 to 8.0, you are golden.

Good Job!

Appreciate all the info!

So for stabilizer. Pool math is telling me to add about 5 pounds to get to 50ppm.

So, in that case would you do 2.5 pounds at one skimmer and 2.5 at the other? I have skimmer socks to use.

Regarding liquid chlorine to get up to 8ppm (top range for 50 cya) I would need to add 93 oz of chlorine. When I did the pool math before the overnight test I added what it said to get it to 6 but it only raised it to 4.5. So should I just put a whole gallon of LC in instead this time?

As for pump I don’t think that money each month would be a big deal. Might just program it to 2200 for 24/7. Would it hurt anything if I had it at 2200rpm from like 8am-10pm and then have it off overnight? To give the pump a brake. (Like it is scheduled as default)

As for muriatic acid, it says 34 oz to get it down to 7.6 (I think I’m around 8 now). Might be higher than I think because I put that amount in last time and it didn’t seems to lower TA or pH at all.

Last question for now, can I add all of this at the same time or focus on one at a time? What I mean is can I address pH, stabilizer, and chlorine at the same time?

 

[PoolStored]

So, in that case would you do 2.5 pounds at one skimmer and 2.5 at the other? I have skimmer socks to use.

So for stabilizer. Pool math is telling me to add about 5 pounds to get to 50ppm.

That's fine for now.

So, in that case would you do 2.5 pounds at one skimmer and 2.5 at the other? I have skimmer socks to use.

No, put the CYA into a human sock, tie it off and hang it 6-12 inches out in front of a return.

Regarding liquid chlorine to get up to 8ppm (top range for 50 cya) I would need to add 93 oz of chlorine. When I did the pool math before the overnight test I added what it said to get it to 6 but it only raised it to 4.5. So should I just put a whole gallon of LC in instead this time?

So either your chlorine is old, or your pool volume is wrong.
What are the dimension of your pool. L, W, D shallow and D deep?
Post a picture of the LC jug where the imprinted some numbers.

Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

As for pump I don’t think that money each month would be a big deal. Might just program it to 2200 for 24/7. Would it hurt anything if I had it at 2200rpm from like 8am-10pm and then have it off overnight? To give the pump a brake. (Like it is scheduled as default)

Run it 24/7. Pumps are made to run. Starting and stopping pumps are hard on them. Running them is not hard on them.

As for muriatic acid, it says 34 oz to get it down to 7.6 (I think I’m around 8 now). Might be higher than I think because I put that amount in last time and it didn’t seems to lower TA or pH at all.

Post a pic of your MA bottle.

Last question for now, can I add all of this at the same time or focus on one at a time? What I mean is can I address pH, stabilizer, and chlorine at the same time?

Stabilizer can be in the pool for adding anything else. Wait 10 minutes between adding acid and chlorine. Brush a bunch after adding either.

 

[Pas_pool]

No, put the CYA into a human sock, tie it off and hang it 6-12 inches out in front of a return.

Can you send me a picture of this? I am not sure how I would tie that off. And why can't I use skimmer socks? I bought a 50 pack

So either your chlorine is old, or your pool volume is wrong.
What are the dimension of your pool. L, W, D shallow and D deep?
Post a picture of the LC jug where the imprinted some numbers.

So, I bought this chlorine this time around at a local pool store in CT that said it is made in Bristol, CT. It did not have a number stamped on it.

The dimensions of our pool are 18x36 with with a 12x6 sun shelf. Shallow end 3.5 deep. Deep end 8 feet. The diagram the PB provided said the gallons were 22,800.

Run it 24/7. Pumps are made to run. Starting and stopping pumps are hard on them. Running them is not hard on them.

Sounds good. Thanks.

Post a pic of your MA bottle.

I am not home, but I bought the same one you recommended from ACE. I bought thee bottles of that.

Stabilizer can be in the pool for adding anything else. Wait 10 minutes between adding acid and chlorine. Brush a bunch after adding either.

Sounds good

 

[PoolStored]

I think your pool is larger.
18x36 and 3.5 and 8 is likely 27,900.
A sun shelf that is 1 foot deep would be reducing the volume of the pool by 12 x 6 x 2.5, or 1400 gallons.
I think you are closer to 26,000 gallons.

 

[Newdude]

Can you send me a picture of this? I am not sure how I would tie that off.

Us large pool folks need to be crafty.

How to add large batches of CYA

Hey Folks !!! With a large pool, I need 4lbs of CYA to only raise it 15, and I don't think I have that many socks without holes in them. So I use a Tshirt. Plus, I like that it's doubled up for redundancy. But it can also be scaled down with socks. So I measure out my dose and...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[TinFoilHat]

I just hung my tied off sock in front of my venturi skimmer off the end of my pool net handle and held it down with two bricks.

 

[Pas_pool]

I think your pool is larger.
18x36 and 3.5 and 8 is likely 27,900.
A sun shelf that is 1 foot deep would be reducing the volume of the pool by 12 x 6 x 2.5, or 1400 gallons.
I think you are closer to 26,000 gallons.

View attachment 642480

How would I be able to get my exact gallons?

 

[PoolStored]

When your additions match your expectations, with Muriatic or Liquid chlorine addition, testing after 30 minutes.
Put 25000g into pool math.
Next time you add acid or LC, test after 30 minutes.
If the addition matches, you are golden.
If the addition didn't lower pH or raise fc to your expectations, raise the gallons by 500 or 1000 depending on how far you are off.
Lower the pool volume in PM if you overshot (lowered pH further or raised FC further than anticipated) by PM.

Once you are dialed in, you don't have to change the volume any more.

 

[Pas_pool]

When your additions match your expectations, with Muriatic or Liquid chlorine addition, testing after 30 minutes.
Put 25000g into pool math.
Next time you add acid or LC, test after 30 minutes.
If the addition matches, you are golden.
If the addition didn't lower pH or raise fc to your expectations, raise the gallons by 500 or 1000 depending on how far you are off.
Lower the pool volume in PM if you overshot (lowered pH further or raised FC further than anticipated) by PM.

Once you are dialed in, you don't have to change the volume any more.

That makes sense. Will up it to 25k gallons when I add chemicals later today.

And I just stopped at Ocean state job lot. Fantastic supply of a lot of different pool chemicals for cheap. All of their LC “shock” they call it is 12.5% and all had this expiration. 062. Does that mean like March 1 ish…?