New pool owner, just started the pump, what next? SLAM?

May 24, 2018
75
NB, Canada
Hi all,

My name is Jeff C and I am located in NB, Canada. New install of a Leisure Pools Reflection 26 rectangular fibreglass pool with Hayward Tristar VS pump, Hayward Aqua-Rite Low-Salt SWG and Hawyard Cartridge filter.

My pool was put in and filled about 2 months ago and the water has been sitting there stagnant since. We finally had the pool equipment shed finished and started up the pool yesterday. Has been circulating for about 40 hours now. The pool bottom was very dirty from dust due to landscaping around pool but I don't find it very cloudy. It seems relatively clear and has no green tint that I can notice now that I've vacuumed the bottom.

The pool has no chemicals ever added to it. I am thinking it is wise to SLAM the pool as per my reading at Pool School. I am still a bit confused as to where to start.

I have bought some chemicals to move CYA, pH and TA as required.

What do I need to do to prepare for the SLAM? Is a 7.2 pH the only real pre-SLAM requirement in terms of chemistry? Should I be adding CYA up to the recommended 70 before SLAM or after?

I should probably clean my filter after all of that vacuuming...

Any help appreciated. :)

Jeff
 
A few quick notes from my first SLAM:

- stock up LC in bulk (my Home Depot has 10% LC for a little over $6 for two 1 gallon bottles). I went through @20 gallons of LC during my SLAM (but it varies for everyone).
- pH around 7.2 is ideal prior to beginning the SLAM
- CYA in the 30-40ppm range
- don't forget to maintain the proper shock level FC during the entire SLAM process (my SLAM took 5 days and I added LC @ 4x a day at the beginning and tapered off to 1x a day once the FC levels didn't drop as much)
- leave your pump running during the entire duration of the SLAM
- brush at least 1x a day (more if you can)
- you are done with the SLAM when the water is crystal clear AND you FC doesn't drop more than 1ppm overnight AND your CC isn't higher than 0.5ppm

In the interim, since you mentioned that no chemicals have been added to your pool, add LC to bring your FC up to the target FC level based off the CYA level. Link to Chlorine/CYA chart below:

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Hope that helps.
 
Thank you Wilafur, seems like I was sent a Taylor K2006 kit with expired reagents... Grrrr... Hoping to get a replacement. Will use test strips to see how off I am for swimming and may do my SLAM a bit later. Will report back. Thanks again!
 
The part I don`t get is in the SLAM section of Pool School, there are two tables for CYA/Shock FC... one for SWG and one for non-SWG. In the Non-SWG, it says you can SLAM at 30 CYA but in the SWG section it says 60 CYA is not recommended. Why is that the case? In my case, since the water is new and I haven`t brought up the CYA to the recommended 70 yet, why can't I slam at 30 to save myself on having to add so much LC?

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Jeff, that might've been in your best interest! With a SLAM looming, you'll be better-served by a K2006-C.

Thanks - how so, simply because of the larger quantities in the C version? Will I burn through the 0.75oz reagents that fast? Or is there something else that is different with the C kit?
 
The part I don`t get is in the SLAM section of Pool School, there are two tables for CYA/Shock FC... one for SWG and one for non-SWG. In the Non-SWG, it says you can SLAM at 30 CYA but in the SWG section it says 60 CYA is not recommended. Why is that the case? In my case, since the water is new and I haven`t brought up the CYA to the recommended 70 yet, why can't I slam at 30 to save myself on having to add so much LC?

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Thanks - how so, simply because of the larger quantities in the C version? Will I burn through the 0.75oz reagents that fast? Or is there something else that is different with the C kit?

When following the SLAM process, use the non-SWCG table. The fact that you have saltwater is of no consequence when in the SLAM process. So if you have lower CYA, stay there for the SLAM. And as you are in Canada and your summer is nearly over, you can easily stay at 40 ppm CYA even when you get your pool cleared and start using your SWCG for the rest of this year. Your sun angle is dropping rapidly and thus UV impact on the pool is decreasing.

The best option for a pool owner is the TF100. But you must use a US border town mail drop to have it shipped to. Otherwise you need the K2006C or at least the small K2006 with FAS-DPD refills immediately.
 
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