New Pool Owner—green again.

[Djuke]

So the second Taylor kit that comes with that salt test is lost in the mail. The original one I ordered (without the salt test) I still have—I was going to return. Can we use that kit and use our salt reader to measure the salt? We’re getting anxious to balance this water. Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

You can definitely use the first Taylor kit to balance all your chemicals. Not sure about the salt reader you have, but you can try it. If the SWG sensor reads enough salt to operate, that's most important at the moment.

 

[Mdragger88]

Which Taylor kit do u have now?

 

[MITBeta]

You don't need to know what the salt level is until you finish the SLAM Process. You kinda started one by adding the gallon per day, but now that you have a good test kit you can see where things really are and make sure you passed the 3 exit criteria.

 

[Djuke]

You can definitely use the first Taylor kit to balance all your chemicals. Not sure about the salt reader you have, but you can try it. If the SWG sensor reads enough salt to operate, that's most important at the moment.

Our saltwater is reading 3400. It was 2600 when we opened but we added salt, so I think we’re good there. Thanks!

Which Taylor kit do u have now?

 

[IceShadow]

That should have all you need, but you may want to get more of the FAS/DPD test chems. Those will go fast during a SLAM and the K2006 (as opposed to the K2006c) doesn't have enough for a lot of those tests.

 

[Djuke]

One gallon each morning is fine.

Ok we’ve finally been able to test with the Taylor kit:

AK 100
CYA below 30 not cloudy at all so possibly 0
FC .6
CC .8
Calcium 170
PH 8.0

Any tips for which order we should put chemicals in. I know we need to increase cya with stabilizer. And bring AK down with acid. Any other suggestions would be great!

 

[MITBeta]

Lower pH to 7.2, add 20ppm of stabilizer, add 12ppm of chlorine.

Follow the SLAM Process.

 

[IceShadow]

Elaborating more on previous answer (thanks MITBeta):

Don't worry about Calcium or TA yet (though you do need to know what the TA is to know how much acid to add to lower pH).

As mentioned above, you want your pH to start about 7.2 for the process, so bring it down with muriatic acid.

You want your CYA to be about 30-40, but since you only know it's below 30, just add 20ppm for now. Let it dissolve while in an old sock or stocking suspended over a return jet, and then re-test CYA in a few days to see where it is. You can always add more if it really was 0.

While the CYA is dissolving add FC to get to 12ppm. Brush and vacuum often. Test as often as you can, at least 2-3 times a day but up to once every hour or so, and re-add chlorine to bring it back to 12ppm. Repeat until you pass the criteria in the link above to end the SLAM.

 

[Djuke]

Lower pH to 7.2, add 20ppm of stabilizer, add 12ppm of chlorine.

Follow the SLAM Process.

The pool is actually crystal clear right now. Would the slam process still apply? I feel like now we’re just adjusting chemicals to get to the right levels.

Elaborating more on previous answer (thanks MITBeta):

Don't worry about Calcium or TA yet (though you do need to know what the TA is to know how much acid to add to lower pH).

As mentioned above, you want your pH to start about 7.2 for the process, so bring it down with muriatic acid.

You want your CYA to be about 30-40, but since you only know it's below 30, just add 20ppm for now. Let it dissolve while in an old sock or stocking suspended over a return jet, and then re-test CYA in a few days to see where it is. You can always add more if it really was 0.

While the CYA is dissolving add FC to get to 12ppm. Brush and vacuum often. Test as often as you can, at least 2-3 times a day but up to once every hour or so, and re-add chlorine to bring it back to 12ppm. Repeat until you pass the criteria in the link above to end the SLAM.

thanks. So even though the pool is no longer green and it’s crystal clear, we still need to go through the slam process?

 

[Newdude]

So even though the pool is no longer green and it’s crystal clear, we still need to go through the slam process?

Clear means nothing. You can't see algae with the naked eye until it has grown so far out of control its a runaway train. You may have killed enough of it to keep it at bay, but still there under the threshold you can see.

Now. If your testing says it's clear, it's clear. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. You take the sun's UV loss out of the equation and if you lose FC overnight, something in the water is brewing.

 

[MITBeta]

The pool is actually crystal clear right now. Would the slam process still apply?

You're starting from zero chlorine. There's almost no chance that you don't have some algae in your pool, even if you can't see it. If it's that clear, the SLAM Process will be quick.

 

[Djuke]

Elaborating more on previous answer (thanks MITBeta):

Don't worry about Calcium or TA yet (though you do need to know what the TA is to know how much acid to add to lower pH).

As mentioned above, you want your pH to start about 7.2 for the process, so bring it down with muriatic acid.

You want your CYA to be about 30-40, but since you only know it's below 30, just add 20ppm for now. Let it dissolve while in an old sock or stocking suspended over a return jet, and then re-test CYA in a few days to see where it is. You can always add more if it really was 0.

While the CYA is dissolving add FC to get to 12ppm. Brush and vacuum often. Test as often as you can, at least 2-3 times a day but up to once every hour or so, and re-add chlorine to bring it back to 12ppm. Repeat until you pass the criteria in the link above to end the SLAM.

Thanks for the info. We’re thinking of putting 4lbs divided into two socks over two jets. Looks like we need 2x 128oz bleach to get to FC 12. Seems like we can do this all in one shot once we get PH down to 7.2. Once we get the stabilizer and chlorine in, how long should we wait to test?

 

[IceShadow]

Chlorine should be fine to test in 15-30 minutes. CYA may take a few days to register on the test, but you can assume it’s in the water and dose accordingly.

 

[Djuke]

Chlorine should be fine to test in 15-30 minutes. CYA may take a few days to register on the test, but you can assume it’s in the water and dose accordingly.

So we got the PH down to 7.2 today and started the slam process. Once we pass the overnight test, at that point do we switch over to the SWG cya to FC ratio? The CYA would need to increase but does chlorine just naturally trend down to get to the right level?

 

[Texas Splash]

Once we pass the overnight test, at that point do we switch over to the SWG cya to FC ratio?

Make sure you pass all 3 SLAM criteria before going back to the SWG and increasing the CYA. You want to be 100% sure you are algae-free. SLAM Process

 

[Newdude]

Once we pass the overnight test, at that point do we switch over to the SWG cya to FC ratio?

Yes. SLAMING AT SWG CYA requires 28FC. Ouch. 12FC is easier for you and your wallet.

The CYA would need to increase but does chlorine just naturally trend down to get to the right level?

Yup. You lose 2-4 ppm a day. Its just a waiting game until it comes down.

 

[Djuke]

Yes. SLAMING AT SWG CYA requires 28FC. Ouch. 12FC is easier for you and your wallet.


Yup. You lose 2-4 ppm a day. Its just a waiting game until it comes down.

So as the FC comes down would we add more stabilizer to get you the 70-80 level? Our SWG is set to 35%. Shoulder that maintain the 4-6 FC level?

 

[Mdragger88]

So as the FC comes down would we add more stabilizer to get you the 70-80 level? Our SWG is set to 35%. Shoulder that maintain the 4-6 FC level?

Yes After all 3 criteria are met - add enough cya to reach 70 & chlorinate accordingly. Target for 70ppm is 5ppm
Target for 80ppm is 6ppm - going a little over is fine - minimum is not recommended. FC/CYA Levels

 

[Newdude]

So as the FC comes down would we add more stabilizer to get you the 70-80 level

Cya takes a day or so to mix well and the FC will have fallen some as it does. Then you just wait out the remaining FC loss and fire up the cell.

Our SWG is set to 35%. Shoulder that maintain the 4-6 FC level?

Which SWG is it ? Daily loss will increase now as the sun gets higher in the sky until the midpoint of the season when it slowly decreases until the end of the season. You will need to increase the SWG to match the UV loss as it happens. Every couple of weeks, you will add runtime to achieve that.