Yes, depending on size of pool, your pump should be running 30-60 minutes prior to taking any tests. This will ensure good mixing ?
New pool owner - first *accurate* test results
- Thread starter jeffbrig
- Start date
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Howdy folks, getting ready for spring swimming season (pool was already 82 yesterday), so figured I'd pop in and say hi!
Since posting my last chemistry numbers in late September, CYA, TA and CH have all come down slightly. The pool has stayed pretty and blue, and hasn't been "shocked" since I found my way on here.
Old numbers:
CYA: 90
TA: 90
CH: 475
Current:
CYA: 80
TA: 80
CH: 350
pH: 7.8
FC: 9 (target 7-10)
CC: 0
During the cooler months, the pool barely went below 70 degrees. It does have a tendency for the pH to rise, which I find odd for a pool that was replastered 2.5 years ago. I am regularly adding small amounts of acid to keep it in check (6-8oz every week or two). I've let the TA drop to 80 in hopes of settling at a lower pH. It still rises, but not as fast. I don't have any water features or anything with excessive aeration either. Any thoughts on that?
I find it a little interesting that the CH dropped so much (75ppm). I'm not aware of any mass precipiation event, but it's possible I let the pH get high at some point. Other than dumping water (I didn't do any changes), how else could one lose calcium? Tester error perhaps? But it's a pretty straightforward titration with an obvious color change...
Other than that, still have the balky pump that cycles off in the heat (I"ll change it one of these days). More recently, my pool light went out. Hopefully just the bulb, but I haven't pulled it yet to check.
Since posting my last chemistry numbers in late September, CYA, TA and CH have all come down slightly. The pool has stayed pretty and blue, and hasn't been "shocked" since I found my way on here.
Old numbers:
CYA: 90
TA: 90
CH: 475
Current:
CYA: 80
TA: 80
CH: 350
pH: 7.8
FC: 9 (target 7-10)
CC: 0
During the cooler months, the pool barely went below 70 degrees. It does have a tendency for the pH to rise, which I find odd for a pool that was replastered 2.5 years ago. I am regularly adding small amounts of acid to keep it in check (6-8oz every week or two). I've let the TA drop to 80 in hopes of settling at a lower pH. It still rises, but not as fast. I don't have any water features or anything with excessive aeration either. Any thoughts on that?
I find it a little interesting that the CH dropped so much (75ppm). I'm not aware of any mass precipiation event, but it's possible I let the pH get high at some point. Other than dumping water (I didn't do any changes), how else could one lose calcium? Tester error perhaps? But it's a pretty straightforward titration with an obvious color change...
Other than that, still have the balky pump that cycles off in the heat (I"ll change it one of these days). More recently, my pool light went out. Hopefully just the bulb, but I haven't pulled it yet to check.
looks good. Especially the CYA.
Do you have an overflow? If it rains enough, some water will flow out.
Have to topped of the pool at all?
Backwashed at all ?
All these wil lower the CYA and CH.
Yeah, lower TA will stabilize teh ph better. You could probably even go down another 10 with no worries and see what happens.
good luck with the balky motor!
Do you have an overflow? If it rains enough, some water will flow out.
Have to topped of the pool at all?
Backwashed at all ?
All these wil lower the CYA and CH.
Yeah, lower TA will stabilize teh ph better. You could probably even go down another 10 with no worries and see what happens.
good luck with the balky motor!
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
No overflow. I drained a couple of inches after heavy rain at one point in Oct/Nov. Not much though. During a dry spell I did top off twice, but replacing evaporated water won't lower anything.
Oh, and for the record, I spent more on chems at the pool store in August than I have in the subsequent 6 months combined.
Oh, and for the record, I spent more on chems at the pool store in August than I have in the subsequent 6 months combined.
I prolly spend maybe 10 a month on average. And thats mostly to replace a little salt and CYA now and then
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
7 months after joining, here are my latest numbers
Temp: 88
pH: 7.9-8.0
FC: 6
CC: 0
CYA: 60
TA: 70
Ca: 350
Adding some muriatic to bring down the pH, and bumping the FC back to 9.
What's really awesome is that I've successfully lowered my CYA from 90 in September to 60 today, primarily through rainwater dilution. I recently discovered that my pool does have a slow leak, but it's at the top inside the skimmer box (above the normal water line). Basically, when rain overfills the pool, I have a slow leak of water trickling out. Also found evidence of a prior patch/repair made there. Looks like that has failed and needs to be revisited.
My pool light also stopped working a while back, and I just got around to diagnosing that last week. After pulling out the enclosure, the bulb looked fine. Multimeter confirmed no voltage inside the fixture. I finally located my junction box and the lid was cracked, letting water in. Of course, wire nuts were pointed down, collecting water. The 12v line corroded terribly, actually melted back the wire insulation, melted the wire nut, and eventually the wire broke. The transformer is putting out 14v with no load, so I think it's ok. I picked up a new junction box, and I'll be repairing it this weekend. I also dediced to put an LED bulb in the fixture - why not since I have it open? Went with a simple screw-in replacement bulb for $65 instead of a full fixture for $300. We'll see how that goes...
Temp: 88
pH: 7.9-8.0
FC: 6
CC: 0
CYA: 60
TA: 70
Ca: 350
Adding some muriatic to bring down the pH, and bumping the FC back to 9.
What's really awesome is that I've successfully lowered my CYA from 90 in September to 60 today, primarily through rainwater dilution. I recently discovered that my pool does have a slow leak, but it's at the top inside the skimmer box (above the normal water line). Basically, when rain overfills the pool, I have a slow leak of water trickling out. Also found evidence of a prior patch/repair made there. Looks like that has failed and needs to be revisited.
My pool light also stopped working a while back, and I just got around to diagnosing that last week. After pulling out the enclosure, the bulb looked fine. Multimeter confirmed no voltage inside the fixture. I finally located my junction box and the lid was cracked, letting water in. Of course, wire nuts were pointed down, collecting water. The 12v line corroded terribly, actually melted back the wire insulation, melted the wire nut, and eventually the wire broke. The transformer is putting out 14v with no load, so I think it's ok. I picked up a new junction box, and I'll be repairing it this weekend. I also dediced to put an LED bulb in the fixture - why not since I have it open? Went with a simple screw-in replacement bulb for $65 instead of a full fixture for $300. We'll see how that goes...
Thanks for the update! Success stories are always good to hear. Good job managing down that CYA level.
Wow, what a story with the light!
Wow, what a story with the light!
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