New pool owner, dropping in to say hello and ask some basic questions!

[nsa]

If it’s powered up and running you should always have a flow light lit, a salt status light lit, and a production % set of indicators lit. Some of those will change to red or flash depending on status, but they should be lit when there is power to the cell. The cell light itself will cycle based on whether its actually producing at that moment in the 300 second cycle time.

I will keep an eye on it. Can the SWG even be powered off completely? Might explain the lack of FC!

 

[Lake Placid]

I think in the Easytouch you can only set production to 0%, I don’t think you can power it off and not have it lit.

On standalone installs I know if it’s powered it’s lit, and you have to set to 0% production to suppress output.

 

[Lake Placid]

I will keep an eye on it. Can the SWG even be powered off completely? Might explain the lack of FC!

I’d suspect you may have had a breaker trip out that didn’t necessarily look tripped. When you reset them, that corrected your power issue to the cell. If it wasn’t lit it was definitely not producing chlorine.

 

[nsa]

Thanks for all the help, the CYA is added. The pillow case wasn't working so I transferred it to some material I found (similar weave as a sock). Took a lot of massaging, but it's done. Time for bed! I'll post my water test results tomorrow!

 

[nsa]

So, 14 hours ago I added HTH Shock to my pool since the FC was reading 0 and my SWG wasn't working for some reason (I had to cycle the power). 11 hours ago I also added CYA (Aquabrite Chlor-Sta) since the pool has never had any added.

Results:
FC: 10
CC: 0
PH: 7.4
TA: 120
CH: 220
CYA: 50

Should I add more CYA, if so how much?
I have an Intellichlor IC-20, set to 50%. Should I turn this down, or will the FC reduce through the day since the shock was added 11 hours ago?

 

[nsa]

Initially my pool didn't have any CYA, and my FC was 0, so I added 3 1/4 lbs of Aquabrite Chlor-Sta and Shock on Friday (Aug 5th), yes it was me up at 11pm massaging a sock!

I did a water test Saturday and the CYA was 60, and today (Mon) it's 40. I have a SWG which is and set to 50%. My pumps run at 1400 for 15 hours a day currently.

FC: 4.5
CC: 0
PH: 7.6
TA: 120
CH: 210
CYA: 40

Should I add more CYA, since this says a salt water pool should have 70-90? (I was thinking of adding another 3lbs)

 

[HermanTX]

It can take 24- 72 hrs. (or more) for Stabilizer to mix completely in the water. So if you want to add more -test again first to verify. Then add half what you need to get to your target. Suggest you target 70 CYA. Then test after another 72 hrs to see where your total CYA has leveled off at. You do not want to overshoot on CYA.

You mention this is a new pool? How new is it? Just curious. Your SWCG appears to be working well to hold 4.5 ppm FC.
You will need to monitor pH and TA closely as well.

 

[PoolStored]

Since your FC hit zero recently, I would perform an Overnight Chlorine loss test Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm you don't have algae before adding more CYA. If you have to follow the SLAM Process, it will be WAAAAY easier at lower CYA level.

 

[nsa]

I've finally managed to get my chlorine levels more balanced with the output from my SWG (set to 30%), but the pH has been 7.6 to 7.8 for the past week. Lots of rain may have increased it a little. I have some Acid Blue Muriatic Acid on order, and did an Acid Demand test with the Taylor kit, and 3 drops needed to lower to 7.4, and I want to be sure I get this right. My results are:

FC: 4.5
CC: 0
pH: 7.8
TA: 110
CH: 210
CYA: 50

My plan is to add a little more CYA since I have a SWG, but wasn't sure whether to balance pH first with the Muriatic Acid?

 

[mknauss]

The CYA is mildly acidic.

Do not add any acid until after the CYA is fully added. And pH reads above 7.8.

 

[nsa]

Thank you @mknauss