New Pool - Orlando Florida

Here's what I did over 2 days with 2 hrs. work each day. Used up 13 bags of mulch out of the 20 I bought. Hard work but glad to be getting the last of the mud covered. The pine bark mulch is not up to the quality I used to get. Walmart has the same Timberline brand as Lowes. Large pieces and pieces of wood and twigs too.

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That was the 33' side. Now what's left to be done is the 43' pool side + 45' lanai sides. I guess I'll need more mulch. I must be nuts to do this in the heat and humidity now :crazy:. But pool was supposed to be finished in May!
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- - - Updated - - -

Here's one more pic looking in the other direction so you can see more of the pool through the screen. These were taken about 8 pm last evening so quality is not up to par.

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What a difference to the mulch makes though!! So worth it. We're not looking forward to that part in the middle of July but it really does look so much more complete. Progress!!


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I just ordered more mulch from the nursery that cuts my lawn. They have better quality pinebark that costs the same as Lowe's and will deliver free when they are here Friday to cut the lawn. At least I don't have to load and unload it from the car.
Got my work cut out for me spreading mulch for the holiday weekend. Pool isn't done so no swimming & partying. :brickwall:

TF-100 testkit arrived right on time yesterday. Will test the tap water today for PH, TA and CH.
The SpeedStir actually fits in the box if I don't store the CYA Standard in there. That will be used only a few times.

Now if I can just remove the little screw and install the batteries in the SpeedStir!:confused:
 

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Did my 1st tests with tap water this a.m.
Used the simple OTO kit that came with the TF-100 so only have readings for TC 1 ppm and PH 8

PH agrees with the pool store reading 8 but not TC which read .2
Pool store visit was 6/11 so water company may be adding more Chlorine to tap water now.
Also water sample I gave pool store was in the hot car (in shade) for almost 2 hrs before I got there after travel time & Walmart shopping.

I've read the expanded instructions and watched videos and getting ready to do the CH test next.

Will be posting all this chemistry stuff in the future over at one of the other TFP Forums as this is the Construction Forum.
But just so excited to begin my first tests!:bounce:
 
I think you should leave your test results in this thread for now unless there is a problem. Maybe Kim can help out here as to whether to post here or in another thread.

Ok thanks.
I just did the CH test on the tap water. My result is 75 ppm. This is much better than the pool store reading of 125. I'm glad to see it lower because the new plaster will be raising the CH levels.

Just to make sure I did the test correctly. It took 3 drops to turn blue. The 4th drop made no change in color.
So 3 x 25 = 75 ppm Calcium Hardness.

The only problem is after the test I let the solution sit about 2 to 3 minutes and it turned back to pink. Is this normal?
Might have to ask on Testing and Balancing Your Water forum as the TFP chemists may not read the construction threads.
 
HI! We do read it everywhere LOL

Lets leave everything about your pool here UNLESS one of us does not answer in a few hours OR it is a matter that HAS to be answer RIGHT then.

Once the test changes color you call it then. If some of them sit they will change back.

Now with the TA it will "flash" red but change back fast. Keep going until you get and keep a reddish color then call it.

Are you have fun doing it?

When you are ready to do the CYA test I have a "trick" that seems to be helpful for some. PM me when you are ready to do it and I will post the trick on this thread.

Kim:cat:
 
Tested the tap water TA = 170 ppm

Solution flashed red, turned pink and finally turned & remained red at 17 drops. Added another drop and no change.
So it's 170. Isn't this very high for the tap water?

Note that pool store was 120 on 6/11.

Yup, I'm having fun with my testkit & SpeedStir. :)
 
We just had a member with tap water with a TA of 220! There is no "normal". Each area is quite different. THAT is why we say to test the fill water. That gives you an idea of what to do. That is easy to "fix" when you get there.

TA is the last thing we adjust so no worries!

Kim:cat:
 
Been reading threads about bringing down TA.
When needed I'll be able to turn on plenty of aeration with 3 sheer waterfalls and 4 deck jets on the separate pump.

To summarize my Tap Water tests with my TF-100 Test Kit & SpeedStir:

TC 1
PH 8
TA 170
CH 75
 
I am going to go ahead and link you up with my "new pool" set of links.

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

That will give you some "homework" to do in a free moment. I see your CH is a little low for your type of pool. Your PB may add stuff to push it up BUT with what you know now what can be used to raise the CH?

It is SO cool you already have figured out about the TA and PH! SWEET!

Kim:cat:
 
Thanks for all the links Kim.
I've bookmarked, but can always find them now :lookhere:eek:n my lucky page 7.

I'll be watching how the PB starts up the pool. I don't want him adding anything to raise the CH as the new plaster should raise it.
Only thing he might have to add is muriatic acid for the PH and might not need much as he will be using 3" Trichlor Tabs.
As soon as he's done with the startup and CYA levels approach 50 I'll use liquid chlorine for awhile then get the SWG.
 

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