New pool in NJ

grottoguy

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 24, 2014
462
NJ
My son is about four feet 10 and he can't play volleyball on one side because it is too deep for him. I'm not sure what the depth is but it may only be four feet six. You may want to keep the volleyball area four feet so the little ones will have an easier time.

I doubt the electric wire is a problem but if you go with a robot try to have an electrical outlet out of the way - maybe in the corner by the diving board so when you run the robot the wire isn't running all across the deck.

My suggestion about the rail was because I always think they obstruct the total look of the pool but they certainly can be a necessity.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
19,813
Bedford, TX
You said "One thing about the automatic electrical ones is the electric wire. I guess I'm still a bit fearful of mixing electricity and water, but on the flip side I'd prefer not having to manage a hose."

You do understand that the robot itself runs on low voltage DC, so there is no problem with swimming with the robot running.. except they are pretty quiet and they can sneak right up on you.. :D

You will need to make sure you have an GFCI outlet for the power supply as close to the pool that is allowed by code. I think that is 10 feet, but I'm sure your PB will know the code for your area.

One of the reasons that I like a Robot is the exact reason that others do not. I don't want to see my pool cleaner when I'm not using it. To me it spoils the look of the pool. Because of that I have no problem taking the robot out the next day after it has ran the night before. If I had a water powered cleaner, it would be a much more PIA to remove from the pool, and I'd just end up like everyone else, and just leave it in there forever..

Jim R.
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
You said "One thing about the automatic electrical ones is the electric wire. I guess I'm still a bit fearful of mixing electricity and water, but on the flip side I'd prefer not having to manage a hose."

You do understand that the robot itself runs on low voltage DC, so there is no problem with swimming with the robot running.. except they are pretty quiet and they can sneak right up on you.. :D

You will need to make sure you have an GFCI outlet for the power supply as close to the pool that is allowed by code. I think that is 10 feet, but I'm sure your PB will know the code for your area.

One of the reasons that I like a Robot is the exact reason that others do not. I don't want to see my pool cleaner when I'm not using it. To me it spoils the look of the pool. Because of that I have no problem taking the robot out the next day after it has ran the night before. If I had a water powered cleaner, it would be a much more PIA to remove from the pool, and I'd just end up like everyone else, and just leave it in there forever..

Jim R.
I'm assuming there is a transformer on the outside of the water. In that case it's no problem :). Yeah..I saw the other

My son is about four feet 10 and he can't play volleyball on one side because it is too deep for him. I'm not sure what the depth is but it may only be four feet six. You may want to keep the volleyball area four feet so the little ones will have an easier time.

My suggestion about the rail was because I always think they obstruct the total look of the pool but they certainly can be a necessity.
It looks like the depth should work out.

I like the idea about the rail...I spoke to my wife about it, and we'll either get rid of it, or put it on one side. Maybe there are alternate forms that look better on the side.

- - - Updated - - -

Question about volleyball nets...
Are non-permanent secured ones any good?

I'm wondering whether to pre cast holes for the net poles, or just put a non-permanent one when it comes down to it.
 

grottoguy

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 24, 2014
462
NJ
I got my volleyball net from SR SMITH. It is designed for a SWG. It is a permanent install but I think the other type would work fine. But maybe someone who has one can chime in.
 

Captain 776

Bronze Supporter
May 2, 2016
164
Thailand
When do you plan to begin construction? Not familiar with Polaris 280 but things like pool lighting and my Dolphin robot all run on low voltage. I think my lights are 24v and the robot operates on 28 V.
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
When do you plan to begin construction? Not familiar with Polaris 280 but things like pool lighting and my Dolphin robot all run on low voltage. I think my lights are 24v and the robot operates on 28 V.
We are about to submit engineering plans. Had some issues with impervious coverage and what not. Permit takes about a month. Construction starts right away weather permitting.
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
After a long winter we have finally started the real work....

Markings and strings where they will dig....



Digging machine stretching it's arm....



There goes my lawn....



Dirt, dirt, and more dirt everywhere....


Digging is done....not the best pic though...lol....
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
Heat pump question....
Builder priced in an AquaComfort ACT-1250. I told him I think that's too small.
He's willing to upgrade to the ACT-1500 for free and eat the cost difference.

My question is should I pay to upgrade to the ACT-1750 for around $1K (still finding out exact cost). Keep in mind the pool is 24x50. I don't plan on a solar cover, and plan to run it 24/7.

I looked on the AHRI directory and found this...


Diff between the 1500 and 1750 doesn't seem to warrant the big difference in cost IMO.
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
Heat pump question....
Builder priced in an AquaComfort ACT-1250. I told him I think that's too small.
He's willing to upgrade to the ACT-1500 for free and eat the cost difference.

My question is should I pay to upgrade to the ACT-1750 for around $1K (still finding out exact cost). Keep in mind the pool is 24x50. I don't plan on a solar cover, and plan to run it 24/7.

I looked on the AHRI directory and found this...


Diff between the 1500 and 1750 doesn't seem to warrant the big difference in cost IMO.
Sorted it out. Builder was very gracious and upped it to the ACT-1750 for no charge.
 

Veccster

Bronze Supporter
Aug 30, 2016
359
Pittsburgh PA
I spent countless hours over the past 3 years meticulously maintaining my lawn. Looks like you had a nice yard as well.

It's that first scoop that hurts the most.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
I spent countless hours over the past 3 years meticulously maintaining my lawn. Looks like you had a nice yard as well.

It's that first scoop that hurts the most.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Yeah...totally. I was getting there on the lawn, but now I'm set back by probably 2 years :\.

- - - Updated - - -

More pics...

The framing....


The framing from the shallow side...


The equipment....nothing magical here....
 

Veccster

Bronze Supporter
Aug 30, 2016
359
Pittsburgh PA
Are you saying that vinyl has issues with cracking/heaving due to winter?
Sorry...I meant to say - with a concrete pool, I would worry about cracking / heaving in the freeze / thaw environment we have in the northeast. You shouldn't have those worries with a vinyl pool. So save the money and upgrade elswhere.

That said, some others on here tell me that concrete is popular in the northeast and canada. So what the heck do I know....
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
One thing...
They said there is too much shale, so straight vermiculite wouldn't be the best idea.

They want to pour a concrete base (extra $$), then put the vermiculite on top of it. I read different points of views online. No clear answers, as there are different forms of concrete, except concrete is better than no concrete.

At this point I wonder if I shouldn't have just gone all concrete :\.

Here are pics with the concrete....vermiculite to go in tomorrow.....


 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
what is their worry? It will not be smooth enough? The slate will be too rough? Is it that they are trying to up charge you?

Kim:kim:
The statement I got was the walls are slate and will keep slowly crumbling away. So best to secure it with concrete. Since we were at it, a concrete base would be better too. You think I made the wrong call?
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
I'm trying to figure where to place all the ladders, handrails, etc. The slide will be in orange with the steps on the left (shallow side), with the mouth on the right (deep side).

I'm thinking the handrail will be in the green location.

Situation...
Right now I have one ladder planned. I'm not entirely sure where to put it. Would it make sense in the red location? That way someone going in from the slide would come out easily? or do you think they would rather just swim over to the shallow end and get out? Keeping in mind that there may be weak-moderate swimmers using the slide.

On the other hand, the patio is on the yellow side so it may be more convenient to come in and out vs going all the way around the pool.

Any thoughts on what I should do?
Can I easily add ladders later? I think bonding may become an issue.


 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
47,360
Tallahassee, FL
I would put the ladder by the slide. Makes for faster out to do it again! Less chance of running round the long way and possibly falling or being pushed in. If the slide "pushes" them that way even better.

I have not idea how easy it would be to add a ladder later.

Kim:kim:
 

shakham

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2016
45
Central, NJ
Updated pics....
- Concrete pour to secure the steel frame.
- Vermiculite on the concrete base.
- drainage pipes? Any idea what these are for and how they are intended to work?

Concrete truck is mighty close....