New Pool for Rookie

[Ivan_atom]

Hi Everybody!

Long story short. We just bought a house with a pool. It is Vinyl 100,000 L, SWG kids dream.
Unfortunately same day we have been moving in, our Country/City/Street was hit by Tornado. We were lucky to loose only few sections of fence. Most important - no one was hurt.
Think it did affect pool chemistry though. If you can see, there is something on the bottom.



I know I had to do some pool maintenance, but only thing I did was draining some excess water.
Finally I got my K-2006 C (complete?) and done some tests, here are results:
FC - 0.5
CC - 0.5
CYA -
PH - 8
TA - 70
CH - 150

First what I did is I reduce PH to 7.4. The CYA test was something I did not understand. The instructions says to add cloudy water until you can not see it from top.
I was able to see it clearly all the time. I know I'm doing something wrong (even though process looks very simple). So - have no clue.

Now FC issue. I decide to pour 4 L of bleach into the pool. I let it mix well and done readings. It is 2 ppm of FC now. Planning to do same test in the morning and see the difference.

Ok, here is another problem. We have Zodiac DuoClear 130 SWG. The indicator has red light, meaning "replace" cartridge. Previous owners claims, that there is no need to do so, just go by the water test. I am quite skeptical on such approach and believe that this could be the reason for low FC and CC. But obviously I might be wrong (for example previous owners could not restart timer after cartridge change). Another possible reason - low salt level. I don't have sold test, need to go and buy strips. Don't think though, that salt level could drop too much, even giving the rains. Anyway, here is a picture:


Well, I know my post looks like mess. Because it is, but take it as "talking to myself".

Thank you, will post more if there would be any changes. Oh, and yes - your advises are highly appreciated.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! So a few things:
- Your water does look a bit cloudy, possibly algae starting. You should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
- Black dot on CYA test should disappear. If you can see it, then it's way too low. Salt pools normally need a CYA of about 70, but since there is a potential for algae right now, only add enough stabilizer to get the CYA to about 30-40 and do that OCLT.
- We test salt with a Taylor K-1766. If you have salt strip, you can try them, although they are not as accurate as the drop method. But if the salt is low, then certainly the SWG won't produce FC. You might also need to remove it to ensure the plates on the cell aren't covered with scale.

Take a look at that and let us know how it's going or if you need more help.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

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Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.

 

[Ivan_atom]

Thank you. I did Chlorine test this morning, and looks like you are right. FC level went down overnight. Another issue with SWG. I will check it today if it is alive. Could be cartridge need to be replaced, hope it is not battery itself.

P.S Could you, please, explain how exactly Zodiac DuoClear works. There are two big "tubes" in the tray. One has power coming in, which I believe is "battery", which produce chlorine from salt. What about second cartridge? What is in there, and why should I replace it once in 6 months? It's not clear...

 

[mknauss]

What about second cartridge?

That cartridge is a mineral cartridge. You do not want to replace that. Just leave the old one in there. It adds metals to your water (copper, silver) which will stain the pool, turn blonde hair green, etc.

 

[mknauss]

The unit is reporting Low Salt. You need to test the salt level in the pool. As Pat said, you need a Taylor K1766 test kit for that. Once you can test the salinity of the pool water, you can add salt (if necessary). If the salinity is good enough for the SWCG, then more troubleshooting is needed.

 

[Ivan_atom]

Yesterday I went to the "pool guys" and bought stabilizer.



Same night I added ~0.5 kilos of solution via sock method and left pump running whole night. To my great surprise, the test gave exactly same result - 0 CYA... I am getting suspicious on chemicals I got in K-2006. Or maybe I doing something wrong.

The greenish "carpet" at the bottom is same size, no bigger, no smaller. Looks ugly.


Another thing which surprised me, FC is the same as last day morning - 1 ppm. Does it make sense???

Not sure what to do now. From what I understand, I need to bring CYA to proper level, before running SLAM. Probably would need to go to the pool store and do free test there.
Oh, and yes, I got my Pentair Warrior!


Not sure if I should send him for first mission. Don't want to reintroduce algae back later. Am I need to do SLAM first, or could I start using Mr. Bobot?

One of my concerns was salt level in the pool. Being in Canada, can not just go to the store and by K-1766. Had to buy salt strips. Did test twice, both times got it ~2500 ppm, which is bit low, but giving heavy rains lately is ok. So now I had to double check my SWG. Probably would start from cleaning battery.

Well, I feel lost and overwhelmed. Trying to hide it from the family. Such a disaster...

 

[Weasel2017]

Poolsupplyhaus.ca will sell K-1766 in Canada. Got all my Taylor reagent products and my K1766 from them. Might not be on website but they are quick to respond and sell through the commercial pool division. Great service and quick shipping

 

[BenB]

0.5kg of dry CYA in a 100,000L pool will only raise your CYA by 5 which is basically undetectable still on a test. You need at least 30 in the pool, so I'd go ahead and add the whole lot that you bought. If there was none in the water then you need at least 3kg to get you to SLAM levels, and 7kg (an extra 4kg) to then get you up to SWG level of 70.

 

[Ivan_atom]

Oh great!!! Thank you so much!!! Will order it ASAP.

 

[Newdude]

Well, I feel lost and overwhelmed. Trying to hide it from the family. Such a disaster...

Chin up Ivan !!!!! You moved, got all set up and unpacked, had cleanup from a tornado *AND* have to learn a pool ????? Yeah. It takes a minute to catch your breath.

We can fix the pool.

Same night I added ~0.5 kilos of solution via sock method and left pump running whole night. To my great surprise, the test gave exactly same result - 0 CYA

That's not nearly enough. You have to forgive my American estimates but using 25k gallons I got 6lbs 4oz of CYA needed to raise from 0-30. So a little under 3 kilograms. *AND* a CYA at or below 20 is either unreadable or very hard to read. So if you put it in the pool already, count it as there and keep approaching the 3kg target. If you added it to the skimmer like most bottles say to, it may be trapped in the filter and take a week to dissolve. Anywho, you're on the right track, so chin up here too.

Another thing which surprised me, FC is the same as last day morning - 1 ppm. Does it make sense???

Totally. With little CYA you have little / no protection for your chlorine. If it was actually 0, it could burn off in an hour or less..

One of my concerns was salt level in the pool. Being in Canada, can not just go to the store and by K-1766. Had to buy salt strips. Did test twice, both times got it ~2500 ppm, which is bit low, but giving heavy rains lately is ok. So now I had to double check my SWG. Probably would start from cleaning battery.

We have salt bags that are 40lbs and each one will raise you by 200ppm if you have the same bags. Turn off the cell for salt adding. You don't want sludge-y salt water going through the cell. Add one bag and see if the cell is happy after a full day of mixing. Then add half the 2nd bag, and give that a day. Then the last half bag and wait a day. That should put you close to 3000 ppm. If the cell turns on early, stop there. You only need to make the cell happy. As long as it works, the actual salt content is less important.

Am I need to do SLAM first, or could I start using Mr. Bobot

Many many people have SLAMed with a robot. It will be fine

 

[Ivan_atom]

Thank you Ben, going to pool right now, will buy more of stabilizer tomorrow.

 

[BenB]

You're doing great and you'll get it fixed up in no time. I totally understand the "pressure" of taking care of the pool and family expectations or doubts that we know what we're doing etc... Before long your water will be sparkling clear again!

Oh and great choice with the Warrior. I absolutely love ours!

 

[Ivan_atom]

Oh my God, guys, thank you all!!!! Great forum... I will follow your advises, hope we can make it work.

One question I still have is about sending Mr. Robot to do his magic. Should I do it, or is it better to do SLAM first?

 

[Newdude]

He will be fine as proven here by many robots during SLAMS. You can swim too once you can see the bottom for swimmer safety. The robot is way tougher than your skin.

 

[Ivan_atom]

Ok, now I feel much, much better. Thank you for directions, weekend is coming! Time to do some work! Will report on progress.

 

[Ivan_atom]

Well, things getting worse. Mr. Robot refuse to work. When I start it, power supply blinks and goes down. As soon as I unplug robot, power supply is working fine... Oh my luck... Well, need to give a call to supplier. That is not canceling fixing CYA level. T-1766 ordered.

 

[Weasel2017]

Well, things getting worse. Mr. Robot refuse to work. When I start it, power supply blinks and goes down. As soon as I unplug robot, power supply is working fine... Oh my luck... Well, need to give a call to supplier. That is not canceling fixing CYA level. T-1766 ordered.

Does it move at all and then quit while in the water? Had a similar issue if so

 

[Ivan_atom]

Does it move at all and then quit while in the water? Had a similar issue if so

Nope, nothing. Not a squeak

 

[Weasel2017]

Nope, nothing. Not a squeak

Does the blue led on the unit light up when power is turned on? Try turning it upside down with power on and hold button for 10 seconds to test it

 

[Ivan_atom]

Does the blue led on the unit light up when power is turned on? Try turning it upside down with power on and hold button for 10 seconds to test it

No. No blue light