When determining the size of the wire needed, the size of the breaker upstream protecting the wire determines the size needed rather than the rating of the subpanel. A #8 wire can only be used if the upstream breaker is 50A or less. If you use a 100A breaker in the panel feeding the subpanel, you need at least a #3 gauge wire. Due to the 200' length, if you want to account for voltage loss of up to 5% when using 75A on the subpanel, you should use #2. Those gauges are for copper wire. You would need to increase by one size for aluminum.
New Pool Build in SoCal
- Thread starter victorramses3
- Start date
Thank You for that information. I did end up getting together to talk to the builder and we went over the future additions I want to add to my back yard that I want to run from the new panel and it seems I have more than enough headroom to add everything I plan on adding and then some. He did mention that if I ever run into issues that he'd come back and run some thicker gauge wire if needed (I would of course eat the cost of the wire).
I spoke with the builder and although they are adamant that they don't install backwash valves they said they were going to go ahead and get one installed for me.
I was looking at my pool pump and noticed it doesn't really have many buttons or even a screen to see what's going on. So I looked into the model and it seems I have an intelliflo 3 pump which is wirelessly controlled via bluetooth/wifi. But now I am confused as I also see that I have a pool pump timer installed.
So my questions are
I know I need the timer to run the SWG but will it also run my pump? If this is the case will I not be able to control the pump when the timer is off? My pump doesn't have the I/O board so I cannot connect and run my SWG to it. I am just trying to figure this out.
TIA!
So my questions are
I know I need the timer to run the SWG but will it also run my pump? If this is the case will I not be able to control the pump when the timer is off? My pump doesn't have the I/O board so I cannot connect and run my SWG to it. I am just trying to figure this out.
TIA!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,182
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The IntelliFlo3 011075 manual says:
Depending on your particular setup, fault codes will display on one or more of the user interfaces:'
- Pentair Home App
- Automation System Interface
- Optional Touchscreen Controller (Almond - P/N 356159z, Black - P/N 356348z)
I prefer a control panel on the pump. I don't want to be required to have my phone to control it in SERVICE mode. And if I have my wife or housekeeper need to do something on the pump they will not likely have the app. If you have any pool service worker they may not have app access to control your pump in SERVICE mode. And if the pump does not run and you can't get the app connected to control it will be tough figuring out what the problem is. These are all the reasons I will not get a pump without a control panel.
You do not state what type of timer but assume it is an intermatic series. It has 4 connection points i.e. Line 1, Load 1, Line 2 and Load 2
The main power into the timer from a circuit breaker will go to Line 1 and Line 2, the pump needs constant power so it also will go to Line 1 and Line 2 (i.e. the main input power will supply both the timer and pump with constant electricity).
The SWCG will be connected to the Load 1 and Load 2 terminals. This way, the timer controls the SWCG on & off.
Since the pump has constant power, one of the 3 methods shown by Allen will control the pump.
So you need to sync your SWCG time for on & off with the schedule you set for the pump. Do not rely on the flow switch of the SWCG to determine if the SWCG is on or off.
For example, If you set your pump to run for 12 hours then set the timer for the SWCG to run within those same 12 hours. You can have the SWCG run less then those 12 hrs but do not exceed the time the pump is scheduled to run.
This is exactly the information I was looking for. Thank You!
This makes a lot of sense to how it works. Also, yes it is an intermatic pool timer but I do not know what model it is.
The pool was plastered this last weekend. We chose a pearl white quartz as I like how the white plaster looks. This quartz has blue speckles in it that gives the water a slightly deeper color but doesn't overdo it. Very happy with it all now I can focus on getting the rest of the backyard done. Thinking about a couple of gazebos and a putting green but I am still working through the design as I only want to do it once.
Attachments
Life has gotten busy, but I want to post a few updates.
The pool is coming along, I ended up having and extra 3ft of concrete decking poured around the perimeter. It just wasn't enough space to be able to comfortably walk around the pool.
I built an enclosure to keep the pool equipment out of sight, and I had some footings poured to get some gazebo's setup to provide some shade.
So far so good, we are really enjoying the pool so far this year.
The pool is coming along, I ended up having and extra 3ft of concrete decking poured around the perimeter. It just wasn't enough space to be able to comfortably walk around the pool.
I built an enclosure to keep the pool equipment out of sight, and I had some footings poured to get some gazebo's setup to provide some shade.
So far so good, we are really enjoying the pool so far this year.
Last edited:
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Sweeeeeeeeeet! 
Lots of shade, even for the equipment pad. You need that in Bakersfield where you are "baking" in the summer. 
Lots of shade, even for the equipment pad. You need that in Bakersfield where you are "baking" in the summer. Shade is definitely needed. Bakersfield gets hot and stays hot all summer.
I am already noticing that my pool temps shoot up as soon as the temps start getting over 90. I am going to be looking into installing a removable shade sail or two over the pool to keep the water temperature down during peak summer. The shade sail might be a next year project though.
I am already noticing that my pool temps shoot up as soon as the temps start getting over 90. I am going to be looking into installing a removable shade sail or two over the pool to keep the water temperature down during peak summer. The shade sail might be a next year project though.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Definitely keep us posted. We're always looking for good shade ideas. A few here have made them, but their longevity is unknown.
Will do! I have seen some of the ones on here and they look great! I just need to figure out a way of making them easily removable and effective without having to add too many (or any) tall poles around the backyard. I
Quick little update to the backyard progress.
Got some grass in the backyard. Ordered some tall fescue for the side yard. Also got electrical hooked up to the gazebos and some fans installed as well. Took advantage of the new electrical run and hooked up some landscape lighting too. Not bad for DIY. I’ve stayed away from doing a lot of stuff myself due to time and just being hesitant about not knowing how to do things, but I’m learning as I go.
Got some grass in the backyard. Ordered some tall fescue for the side yard. Also got electrical hooked up to the gazebos and some fans installed as well. Took advantage of the new electrical run and hooked up some landscape lighting too. Not bad for DIY. I’ve stayed away from doing a lot of stuff myself due to time and just being hesitant about not knowing how to do things, but I’m learning as I go.
I had this come up recently. We have very expansive clay soil and although the pool builder excavated a ton of the clay out and brought in a couple of feet of non-expansive soil before pouring the deck it seems to still be causing issues. In the pictures you can see that one corner of the deck is lifting and causing a gap to appear between the deck and pool tile. The pool hasn’t shifted as the water level is still level on the tile line, but my concern is about water getting in under the deck and making the soil issues worse. Would it be the correct thing to do to just use some sort of caulking to fill in the gap? The pool builder said he’d come in and fill the gap since it’s still under warranty , but I’m just trying to make sure it’s not a bigger issue that I need to address before he just fills it in.
