New Pool Build in SoCal

Would I be able to add that at a later date or would I have to add it now?
You may want to ask your PB what is included in your current budget. Are you getting a Circuit Breaker Box, is there a Timer, or is just an on/off switch. Based on what he is providing you could negotiate an exchange and maybe get a basic automation for minimal upcharge. It really depends on what the current setup will be for your current budget and hopefully the PB will take time to explain it to you.
 
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I can be added later. However it would be easier to get the electrician to hook it up when doing all the other wiring. Think about where you would place the IntelliConnect near the equipment pad as that might be a good location to put the switch for the pool lights. You will also need power for the IntelliConnect.

BTW what model of Pentair pump are you getting? Did you size your IntelliChlor as 2x the size of your pool? Also be aware of pool light choice.

I’m not 100% sure on pump. All the contract said is 3hp pentair pump. My pool is going to be around 26,000 gallons and I’m getting an ic40 so while not exactly double I figure it’s close enough. I talked to my pool builder about an ic60 but it was more expensive by about $500 and it seems like overkill for my size pool. The lights they are using are the globrights. I know they have had issues but when I spoke to my pool builder they said not to worry about it that if they ever fail they’ll replace them. They said that yes they have seen them fail on a few builds but that’s all they use and the ones that fail are a small percentage of the globrights they install. I asked about the microbrights and he says he has also installed those and would switch them out if I wanted but after Reading through the forums it seems like both lights have issues. So I’m gonna stick with the globrights since he said he’d warrant them if they ever failed.
 
You may want to ask your PB what is included in your current budget. Are you getting a Circuit Breaker Box, is there a Timer, or is just an on/off switch. Based on what he is providing you could negotiate an exchange and maybe get a basic automation for minimal upcharge. It really depends on what the current setup will be for your current budget and hopefully the PB will take time to explain it to you.
Yes I definitely have been meaning to talk to him about this. His salesman was the first person I asked about this but he wasn’t able to give me any information in regards to any of that. I just need to catch my pb one of these days and talk to him. I’ll make a note of what you’re saying and see what I can get out of him.

Thanks!
 
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I’m not 100% sure on pump. All the contract said is 3hp pentair pump.
That probably infers the Intelliflo which is what you want. Both the Superflo and Whisperflo aren't compatible with the IntelliConnect serial communications. Make sure they give you the cable when they install the pump.
 
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Spoke with my pb. He told me that I will get an outlet next to the pool equipment that I could use to power whatever I need to power. I did mention the intelliconnect system and he says he doesn't recommend it because it doesn't work well and the few times he has installed it the customers stop using after a while due to connection issues and just overall messy user interface. He recommended I just get a switch to control my lights. Is the intelliconnect system really that bad?
 
There were teething issues with the IntelliConnect early on when it was introduced but it's gotten better now. The main improvement is the move away from the Link2O app to the Pentair Home App. There were Pentair server issues too, but that seems to be resolved now. There was also a problem w/ Intelliflo connection loss, but that was fixed in a firmware update. You'll find threads about all these issues on this forum, but a later post shown below was positive.

I wanted to chime in with my experience so far. The first time we downloaded the H20 app we had all kinds of issues but when I upgraded to the Pentair home app all has been well. I run the items in my sig with it and while I am still learning and understanding how things operate, it has been very basic and trouble free so far.
 
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At about $600 a piece. Warranty is for 3 years on initially installed items. They fail between 3-5 years
I'll have to verify how long the warranty is with the builder. 3-5 years for a pool light sounds like a rip off especially for $600 a light. Are there any better options out there? My parents have had their pool with an "old school" light and have only had to replace the unit once in 18 years of owning the pool.
 
There were teething issues with the IntelliConnect early on when it was introduced but it's gotten better now. The main improvement is the move away from the Link2O app to the Pentair Home App. There were Pentair server issues too, but that seems to be resolved now. There was also a problem w/ Intelliflo connection loss, but that was fixed in a firmware update. You'll find threads about all these issues on this forum, but a later post shown below was positive.
That's good to know. I will probably just purchase it myself and install it after the pool is up and running.
 

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To change colors with a light switch you'll have to flip the switch multiple times, see Globrite User's Guide. With the IntelliConnect you would just select a color or light show in the app.
Yeah he was suggesting a light specific switch with a dial to select light colors that pentair has. This is the one he was mentioning.

 
Those color sync switches are about $300 and only control the lights - the IntelliConnect at around $500 controls the lights, pump, swcg and has support for a heater. Seems to me you want one or the other not both.
 
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I'll have to verify how long the warranty is with the builder. 3-5 years for a pool light sounds like a rip off especially for $600 a light. Are there any better options out there? My parents have had their pool with an "old school" light and have only had to replace the unit once in 18 years of owning the pool.
You are better off to install the 'old school' light fixture and install an LED bulb.

At the very least, use Microbrites and not the Globrites which have a proprietary connection in the pool which restricts your ability to use after market lights.
 
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After doing some research and speaking with the pool builder I have decided to stick with the globrites. Ideally I would add another light and go with 3 microbrites as I would like to have as much light in my pool as possible and losing 200 lumens per light just isn't something I want to do, but funds are an issue at this point and an extra light isn't in the cards. I know there is an adapter to fit microbrites in the globrite locations if I ever want to go that route so that is always an option down the road.

My pool builder has no issues changing them to microbrites but he was concerned about the lighting being sufficient for the pool. I am trying to work with him to see if I can get another light bundled in so we'll see if it happens 🤞.

I do have a question about the lighting locations. The way my pool is setup the two lights would end up basically just lighting up the deep end if put on the wall closest to the house so that the lights don't point towards the house. When speaking with the designer he set them up as it shows in the attached design. I was initially thinking of putting the lights on each end of the pool to better distribute the light (as shown from the red arrows) and my pool builder agrees with me but I was wondering what the recommended setup in this situation would be. I don't want to end up with a dark shallow end at night.

Screenshot 2022-11-01 195916.png
 
20’ X 40’ with 4 lights pointed away from the house. Notice the amount of deflection lighting on the back wall. I advise customers to locate lights so that deflection is directed away from the house. Possible solution would be to add more lights to the same wall as the proposed location of the two lights.7BEA6357-0CB0-44AB-B397-8F5E11BEEBA7.jpeg
 
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It’s been a busy time for me these past few weeks but progress has been made. Plumbing was done and decking was poured. I am now waiting on electrical and plaster to finish up the build.

The location of the lights is not ideal, I ended up having them placed on each end of the pool not on the wall closest to the house pointing away as is the recommended position. I know it is not the best practice per the reading I’ve done on here and the recommendations I’ve gotten from members but adding a couple more lights to make It work is just out of the budget.

Here’s a few pictures of the progress.EF63CB8F-47BD-407F-8F26-96163930D5D2.jpegD50A6414-5CAC-4107-BA6D-CC045027D3F7.jpeg5F08F74C-9777-49A7-A00E-F365EE270053.jpeg1C5D283D-3D21-4D29-811C-A2DF70DD07A2.jpeg0A2D81BE-A8B9-4C3F-8097-8F32FB98F5EE.jpeg9B15D8A8-D36C-45F7-8F75-2B48DA9CE672.jpeg94EE265C-B2F7-4030-BAD4-8FA5497E0A9A.jpeg23EB0473-98D3-4081-AB12-F9B639054716.jpeg
 
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The equipment is freshly installed but I have a question about how it was installed. I was expecting a valve installed by the filter to be able to backwash the DE filter, but when I brought this up to my builder they said that they don’t install them since you should be cleaning the filter out by breaking it down and giving it a thorough cleaning a couple times a year. He mentioned that backwashing just causes too much buildup and he never recommends it. What is the consensus on this? I thought it was standard practice to backwash a couple of times before giving it a thorough clean.

Also, I had my builder install a 100 amp sub panel and he is only running 8 gauge wiring to it. I spoke to him about it and said they normally only run 10 gauge but since I had spoken to him he was gonna size up. This seems way too small to me as it is about a 200ft run and I had a guy quote me a 100amp sub panel in the past and he was gonna run 2 gauge wire all the way back. I mentioned this to him and he thought it was gonna be overkill. Up to this point the builder has been solid, but I’m starting to have my doubts.

Here’s a couple of pictures on the equipment.
 

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It’s common practice to install a backwash valve on a DE filter. Your thoughts are correct on the reasoning for the valve. At minimum you need to have the drain plug moved to an area that makes it easier to access for draining the filter of sediment that collects in the bottom of the filter.
 

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I was expecting a valve installed by the filter to be able to backwash the DE filter, but when I brought this up to my builder they said that they don’t install them since you should be cleaning the filter out by breaking it down and giving it a thorough cleaning a couple times a year. He mentioned that backwashing just causes too much buildup and he never recommends it. What is the consensus on this? I thought it was standard practice to backwash a couple of times before giving it a thorough clean.
You are correct regarding "standard" practice. Just look at the Pentair website and they discuss using backwash valves on DE filters. One option, since the plastic wrap is still on the DE filter, swap it for a cartridge filter. The other option is to demand a backwash valve. They would also need to provide a waste line.

Depending on how much debris in your yard, but you may find yourself disassembling that DE filter more than a couple of times a year.
 

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