New Plaster Startup

[kchinger]

I'm sure this has been asked a ton, but I'm mostly curious about my heater. It's an older Raypak 350k BTU gas, RP2100. I don't know if it automatically bypasses itself when it's off and water just flows through the front block thing, or if the water flows through the whole thing. If it doesn't bypass itself, should I do something to install one, or ask the builder to install a bypass so it doesn't fill with dust?

Also, my builder said they "don't start pools, you'll need to start the pool yourself once the job is complete", does that sound right? I asked them to clarify. I'm relatively comfortable doing whatever I need to do, but I was under the impression that the builder usually at least did the first acid or whatever was necessary. If I have to do it, I need them to give me instructions NOW so that I can get my chemicals together.

They'll be here in a couple weeks and I'm starting to freak out.

 

[ajw22]

I'm sure this has been asked a ton, but I'm mostly curious about my heater. It's an older Raypak 350k BTU gas, RP2100. I don't know if it automatically bypasses itself when it's off and water just flows through the front block thing, or if the water flows through the whole thing. If it doesn't bypass itself, should I do something to install one, or ask the builder to install a bypass so it doesn't fill with dust?

Water flows through the heat exchanger when the heater is off.

The plaster dust will not be a problem for the heater as long as your pH stays above 7 and you don't turn the heater on.

From Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

Why no heater use for first 30 days? With new plaster there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation in the heater increases significantly. The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it. Your risk of rushing to use the heater is scale clogging up the heater coil.

Also, my builder said they "don't start pools, you'll need to start the pool yourself once the job is complete", does that sound right? I asked them to clarify. I'm relatively comfortable doing whatever I need to do, but I was under the impression that the builder usually at least did the first acid or whatever was necessary. If I have to do it, I need them to give me instructions NOW so that I can get my chemicals together.

All the better that you just handle the startup.

You need 34% muriatic acid, 10% liquid chlorine, and dry stabilizer/CYA.

Do you have a Test Kits or Taylor K-2006C test kit? If not get one. The TF-100 is a better value.

Test your fill water pH, TA and CH and that gives us an idea if you will need calcium added.

Find the most appropriate startup guide for the type of plaster you are getting,

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

And ask questions here once you review it.

 

[kchinger]

Thanks, yeah, I have TF-100 and I've managed the pool for years myself (just re-ordered my new one for the year). I'll check the guide. Good to know it doesn't need a bypass for the heater as long as I don't screw up the startup.

I bought enough calcium to bring it from 0 to 400 or so with some extra for later in the year as it drops due to rain and stuff (I buy ice melt so I need to do it before I can't get it anymore), probably overkill but whatever, it's not that expensive and it keeps. Fill water I'm not sure since most will come from trucks, so I don't know what it's like. My hose pressure is feeble so I can probably only provide like 10k gallons at the most over 24 hours or so.

 

[ajw22]

There are other good reasons to install a heater bypass when you can…

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[kchinger]

Water flows through the heat exchanger when the heater is off.

The plaster dust will not be a problem for the heater as long as your pH stays above 7 and you don't turn the heater on.

From Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

Why no heater use for first 30 days? With new plaster there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation in the heater increases significantly. The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it. Your risk of rushing to use the heater is scale clogging up the heater coil.





All the better that you just handle the startup.

You need 34% muriatic acid, 10% liquid chlorine, and dry stabilizer/CYA.

Do you have a Test Kits or Taylor K-2006C test kit? If not get one. The TF-100 is a better value.

Test your fill water pH, TA and CH and that gives us an idea if you will need calcium added.

Find the most appropriate startup guide for the type of plaster you are getting,

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

And ask questions here once you review it.

I've reviewed it. Their instructions are attached. Looks like they're doing a "traditional" startup? We're using KrystalKrete in a light color (Aquamarine). I don't see kyrstralkrete specific instructions, so I guess I'll look around for those.

They don't mention vacuuming (in fact they mention NOT vacuuming), should I buy a vacuum without rollers? I only have a robot which I can't use for a couple weeks. They mention opening the filter to clean the plaster off. Can I just backwash or am I going to need to open the filter? Currently the filter has no DE after the last backwash and closing of last year, should I add DE like normal before they come I guess? When I backwash, do I continue adding normal DE each time? That seems like a lot of DE to just throw away.

I don't have a bypass for my SWG, I guess it's fine as long as I don't turn it on? Or worst case I give it a quick acid bath I guess after it's done making dust.

Obviously where they say brush once a day, twice a day isn't gonna hurt, right? Just my normal whale tail brush?

Thanks for the help.

 

[kchinger]

There are other good reasons to install a heater bypass when you can…

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Good to know. Yeah, I have the space and the ability. Maybe that'll be a project for later in the year. Makes it easier once I need the heater replaced too (it's getting towards the end of its life I think), I can still use the pool without any issues while we get it replaced.

 

[ajw22]

I've reviewed it. Their instructions are attached. Looks like they're doing a "traditional" startup? We're using KrystalKrete in a light color (Aquamarine). I don't see kyrstralkrete specific instructions, so I guess I'll look around for those.

What they gave you is similar to the other guides. They are all basically the same.

They don't mention vacuuming (in fact they mention NOT vacuuming), should I buy a vacuum without rollers? I only have a robot which I can't use for a couple weeks.

No need to vacuum. The brushing a few times a day will stir up the plaster dust and running the pump 24/7 and your filter will clear the dust out over time.

They mention opening the filter to clean the plaster off. Can I just backwash or am I going to need to open the filter? Currently the filter has no DE after the last backwash and closing of last year, should I add DE like normal before they come I guess?

Yes, you need to add DA to your filter. Never run a DE filter for more then 10 minutes without DE. If you do you can clog the grids and never be able to get them properly cleaned.

When I backwash, do I continue adding normal DE each time? That seems like a lot of DE to just throw away.

Yup, with every backwash you need to add 80% of the DE capacity.

No need to open the filter. I open my filter and clean the grids at the closing every season.

I don't have a bypass for my SWG, I guess it's fine as long as I don't turn it on? Or worst case I give it a quick acid bath I guess after it's done making dust.

Your SWG will be fine.

Never give a SWG unnecessary acid baths. Every acid bath removes the rare earths and decrease the cell life.

Obviously where they say brush once a day, twice a day isn't gonna hurt, right? Just my normal whale tail brush?

Brush as often as you can with your regular brush.

 

[kchinger]

Yes, you need to add DA to your filter. Never run a DE filter for more then 10 minutes without DE. If you do you can clog the grids and never be able to get them properly cleaned.

No need to open the filter. I open my filter and clean the grids at the closing every season.

Good to know. I don't think I've ever done that, but I don't think I knew that was such a bad thing. I figured it just didn't filter without the DE, didn't realize it damaged it.

I've never opened my filter, perhaps I'll do that after the 30 days is up and give it a proper cleaning. Or perhaps not, we'll see how lazy I'm feeling.

 

[ajw22]

I've never opened my filter, perhaps I'll do that after the 30 days is up and give it a proper cleaning. Or perhaps not, we'll see how lazy I'm feeling.

DE Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[kchinger]

@ajw22 just to tack on to this thread, tested my hose today, only got 200gph. We've always had poor water pressure. Not much I can do about this, right? Nothing that's worth doing just to save a truck I guess. In 24 hours I can only contribute like 5000 gallons. They'll need 21k in trucks, which is I think 5 trucks? That's crazy.